throttle lock help!

[J Fortner]

> From: Douglas Bouley > > Subject: [Fwd: Re: PD Nerf bars] > > > Somebody on the list suggested that a good first project is to > replace=20 > > all the screws that I can find with hex fasteners. Does anybody make > a=20 > > kit of such things?

http://www.desmoparts.com/ J Fortner Plano, TX [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Tony JONES]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, J Fortner wrote:

> http://www.desmoparts.com/

I can see some value in the "KLR 650 Body Kit" as a lot of these are replacing Phillips screws with allen-head equivalents. Of course replacing them all is WORK and most are going to be just fine if you have a decent screwdriver. I totally fail to see the point in the "Engine Kit". Nearly all of what you are replacing already has a hex-head and the torque is only around 8ft/lb on these case bolts. My 96 has so many crapped out fasteners but the case bolts are generally ok. Tony

[J Fortner]

On 1/4/06, Tony Jones wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, J Fortner wrote: > > > http://www.desmoparts.com/ > > I can see some value in the "KLR 650 Body Kit" as a lot of these are > replacing Phillips screws with allen-head equivalents. Of course > replacing them all is WORK and most are going to be just fine if you > have a decent screwdriver. > > I totally fail to see the point in the "Engine Kit". Nearly all of > what you are replacing already has a hex-head and the torque is only > around 8ft/lb on these case bolts. My 96 has so many crapped out > fasteners but the case bolts are generally ok.

Have you taken any of the case bolts out of your engine lately? The A7 I replaced the case bolts on were almost if not all rusted and corroded to the engine. Serveral of the case bolts were very difficult to remove. There is no doubt in my mind if this A7 would have had to have the cases opened on the trail a case bolt would have been snapped off. Being able to carry lighter weight hex wrenches and less of them is also a very good thing TM. I thought the SS hex replacement of the stock KLR fasteners was a bit vain until I had replaced a few of the stock KLR fasteners. The stock KLR fasteners which have to be some of the cheapest softest potmetal oatmeal I have ever seen in my life. It may be just me, but if I am 1,000 miles from home in Mexico for instance, I want to KNOW I can remove a fastener without snapping the head off if maintenance or emergency maintenance is necessary on the KLR. I think I paid $60 for both kits from Ebay. which I thought was high at the time. Looking back now it seems like a drop in the bucket and the piece of mind is priceless. I also find the stainless hex fasteners easier/faster to work with on the KLR. Just my .02 J Fortner Plano, TX A7 and others I have no interest in Desmo Parts, just a satisfied customer... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Tony JONES]

> Have you taken any of the case bolts out of your engine lately?

Yes, last week, both sides. I wouldn't have made a comment had I not. Tony

[J Fortner]

On 1/4/06, Tony Jones wrote:

> > > > Have you taken any of the case bolts out of your engine lately? > > Yes, last week, both sides. I wouldn't have made a comment had I not.

What year is the KLR and how many miles? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Tony JONES]

2005 with 17 miles. I didn't suggest not doing any PM on the bolts. A 50c pack of anti-seize from Napa and carefully apply a layer on the case bolts is definately a good idea. I'm just saying that replacing all of the bolts isn't the only option in order to avoid having a hard time getting a bolt out in the boonies. We each spend our $$$ on what we see fit, thats good. Tony

> What year is the KLR and how many miles?

Ok, I lied. it's a 1996 with 20K miles.

[J Fortner]

I guess it is all personal preference, kind of like the PD nerf bars. I had PD nerf bars. I found the PD bars a bit contrary to install requiring alot of finese. The PD nerfs will also catch or dig in on a higher than 0 mph drop possibly causing more damage to the KLR. During maintenance the tank wings and fasteners are still a PITA. I replaced the PD nerf bars with an IMS tank adding ~2 more gallons capacity, me personally it was worth $225 not to have to deal with the radiator/tank wings during maintenance or having the wings come loose anymore. It is also nice to be able to ride ~400 miles between gas stops and see how much gas is in the tank. Radiator protection seems about the same as the PD nerfs.

On 1/4/06, J Fortner wrote: > > On 1/4/06, Tony Jones wrote: > > > > > > > Have you taken any of the case bolts out of your engine lately? > > > > Yes, last week, both sides. I wouldn't have made a comment had I not. > > > What year is the KLR and how many miles? > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[John Biccum]

The stock fasteners in the engine were very corroded when I replaced mine with stainless. They had some white gunk on them that looked for all the world like the corrosion that you would see of the top of a battery post. The blackish paint was also peeling or had peeled off all the hex heads. I was real happy to toss the lot in the junk box and install the Desmo or Murph's kit. If you go with a stainless fastener kit get a 3/8 drive set of metric Allen wrenches so you can use a torque wrench on the new hex head cap screws. -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tony Jones Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 3:36 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Replacing screws; was: [Fwd: Re: PD Nerf bars]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, J Fortner wrote: > http://www.desmoparts.com/ I can see some value in the "KLR 650 Body Kit" as a lot of these are replacing Phillips screws with allen-head equivalents. Of course replacing them all is WORK and most are going to be just fine if you have a decent screwdriver. I totally fail to see the point in the "Engine Kit". Nearly all of what you are replacing already has a hex-head and the torque is only around 8ft/lb on these case bolts. My 96 has so many crapped out fasteners but the case bolts are generally ok. Tony Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links

[Tony JONES]

> The stock fasteners in the engine were very corroded when I replaced mine > with stainless. They had some white gunk on them that looked for all the > world like the corrosion that you would see of the top of a battery post. > The blackish paint was also peeling or had peeled off all the hex heads.

Like I said before, applying a thin coat of anti-seize to the threads as a preventative measure seems just as likely to result in long bolt life. When I pulled off my case covers and before I applied the anti-seize I soaked the old case bolts in kerosene and then just cleaned any remaining corrosion off the threads with a soft wire brush. $60 for both these kits is most of the way to a new skid plate, you can get enough anti-seize to do 20 KLRs in a $3 tube. Tony

[E.L. Green]

J Fortner wrote:

>Have you taken any of the case bolts out of your engine lately? The A7 I >replaced the case bolts on were almost if not all rusted and corroded to the >engine. >

Err, stainless steel corrodes to aluminum also, so replacing the stock bolts with stainless would not have helped here. Stainless is only useful as an anti-corrosion measure if you're screwing it into steel, not into aluminum, due to the galvanic issues between stainless steel and aluminum. And even stainless-on-steel is not 100% guaranteed. Look up "stainless steel crevice corrosion" on Google, eh? If you are going into aluminum, you want something closer to aluminum on the galvanic scale, such as zinc-plated screws. Otherwise you *will* get corrosion eventually, unless you're in a part of the country where you are *never* exposed to salt (and where is that?).

>fasteners. The stock KLR fasteners which have to be some of the cheapest >softest potmetal oatmeal I have ever seen in my life. > >

You do *not* want to put hard steel fasteners into aluminum unless you just *love* your helicoil kit.

>It may be just me, but if I am 1,000 miles from home in Mexico for instance, >I want to KNOW I can remove a fastener without snapping the head off if >maintenance or emergency maintenance is necessary on the KLR. >

The alternative is that you don't snap the head off, but the threads come out with the bolt because the threads have corroded to the bolt. Face it, you're screwed either way.

>I think I paid >$60 for both kits from Ebay. which I thought was high at the time. Looking >back now it seems like a drop in the bucket and the piece of mind is >priceless. I also find the stainless hex fasteners easier/faster to work >with on the KLR. > >

Don't get me wrong, I bought the Desmo kit myself. But not for the engine. I just use it for steel-on-steel, and primarily to replace Phillips-head screws. It's also nice to have some spares around for, e.g. mounting accessories. -E