throttle rocker replacement

[RM]

Here's one test I'd like to see: Crank up the bike, hot wire the fan temp sensor lead to ground (to force it on), engage the high-beam, use tape to hold the brake lever down (to active the brake light). Now insert your meter into the circuit and find out how many engine RPM's are needed to break-even (zero amps). This is the best real-world test I can think of. Your sick 12.1 volt battery will throw this test off, so you might want to get that replaced first. RM On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 17:25:48 -0700, "Jeff Saline" sai d: Ken, Other interested Listers, Since this seems to be of interest to quite a few folks, I just got back from my shop where I did a few electrical tests on MY bike. Here's what I did. I used a Craftsman digital multimeter number 82139, which has a 10 amp range and goes on sale pretty regularly at Sears for about $19. I pulled the side covers and seat so I could get to the top of the battery and the white wire coming off the positive post. I hooked the meter up for the 10 amp range and connected it in SERIES at the bullet connector for the white wire. Please remember I've done a few electrical changes to my bike so you may get a different reading on yours. But these readings should be close. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

RM, That would be an interesting test. I'm not gonna change my battery probably until next spring. So you go ahead and try it and let us know. : ) I was thinking about trying a load test and pulling the charging system down to 13 volts and seeing what's put out at a few different rpms. But I'm not sure I could get an accurate enough reading at such a small load with the equipment I may be able to borrow for a test like that. So I probably won't do it. I know what works for me and my bike and my riding. I think everyone is gonna have to do a little work on their own to figure out what works well for them. : ) Best, Jeff On Tue, 01 Nov 2005 10:55:39 -0800 "RM" writes: Here's one test I'd like to see: Crank up the bike, hot wire the fan temp sensor lead to ground (to force it on), engage the high-beam, use tape to hold the brake lever down (to active the brake light). Now insert your meter into the circuit and find out how many engine RPM's are needed to break-even (zero amps). This is the best real-world test I can think of. Your sick 12.1 volt battery will throw this test off, so you might want to get that replaced first. RM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[John Biccum]

I'm running one of Tammy's LED voltmeters on my A16. I also run gripheaters and a Gerbing vest on an digital controller. At idle I can run the vest wide open and still stay "in the green" on the voltmeter. But if I add the gripheaters the voltage goes into the red. I can run both vest and gripheaters concurrently and stay in the green if the RPM is above 1500 RPM or so. If I am stuck at a traffic light for a while I just turn off the gripheaters. Even with the vest off the gripheaters will pull the voltage down into the yellow zone at idle. Adding the turn signal load to the gripheater load pulls the voltage down into the red. I also have an Odyssey battery on the bike. If it is real cold I sometimes just let the voltage stay in the red for a traffic light cycle or two since the battery can deal with that without any ill effects. Im runing an LED tailight/brakelight now and would love to swap out the turnsignal bulbs for LEDs to save a few watts. Anyone care to share their experience running LEDs in the turnsignals? -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of RM Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 10:56 AM To: Jeff Saline; kmuenster@...; DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Cc: mjearl@... Subject: [DSN_KLR650] KLR Electrical - How many RPM's? Here's one test I'd like to see: Crank up the bike, hot wire the fan temp sensor lead to ground (to force it on), engage the high-beam, use tape to hold the brake lever down (to active the brake light). Now insert your meter into the circuit and find out how many engine RPM's are needed to break-even (zero amps). This is the best real-world test I can think of. Your sick 12.1 volt battery will throw this test off, so you might want to get that replaced first. RM On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 17:25:48 -0700, "Jeff Saline" sai d: Ken, Other interested Listers, Since this seems to be of interest to quite a few folks, I just got back from my shop where I did a few electrical tests on MY bike. Here's what I did. I used a Craftsman digital multimeter number 82139, which has a 10 amp range and goes on sale pretty regularly at Sears for about $19. I pulled the side covers and seat so I could get to the top of the battery and the white wire coming off the positive post. I hooked the meter up for the 10 amp range and connected it in SERIES at the bullet connector for the white wire. Please remember I've done a few electrical changes to my bike so you may get a different reading on yours. But these readings should be close. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links

[Chris Riffe]

Whats Tammy's web address?? Thanks Chris : I'm running one of Tammy's LED voltmeters on my A16. --------------------------------- Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Chris Riffe]

Whats Tammy's web address?? Thanks Chris : I'm running one of Tammy's LED voltmeters on my A16. --------------------------------- Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[John]

http://www.totallywiredcycles.com/

----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Riffe" To: "John Biccum" ; "'RM'" ; "'Jeff Saline'" ; ; DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 7:54 PM Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] KLR Electrical - How many RPM's? > > Whats Tammy's web address?? > Thanks > Chris > > : > I'm running one of Tammy's LED voltmeters on my A16. > > > --------------------------------- > Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > >

[thumbtrap43]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Chris Riffe wrote:

> Whats Tammy's web address??

http://www.totallywiredcycles.com/shop/catalog/ I just ordered my heated grips (DualStar), thinking about doing the fuses and the dash at the same time. Tammy sells a fuse relocation kit, a fan fuse kit, and an accessory fuse kit, but I'm not sure how they all relate. 1) Do I need all three to go entirely to ATO fuses? 2) Will all three fit on the starter switch cover? 3) Is the city light circuit on the headlight fuse? Alternatively, anybody with a dash, is the LittleFuse 6 gang dealie on the dash a viable alternative (ie, is it weatherproof, is it too much hassle to route everything up there, etc...)

[Jeff Saline]

Thumbtrap43, Not sure I have all the answers for you but I've got the ATO fuse kit on my bike. It was a gift or I think I would have just done my own set up. It fit well and was as described. You do need to be careful with the location of the holes you drill so you really get the clearance for the fuse holder and the edge of the cover. I put my own ATO fuse holder in for the fan. I don't think the fan fuse kit you get goes under the cover but I'm not sure. I think it would get crowded under there with three fuse holders. I don't know if the city lights are fused off the 10 amp headlight fuse for sure, but a quick scan (maybe 2 minutes worth) at the factory wiring diagram seems to point that way. Just be careful about hooking the heated grips to the city lights wiring as it's pretty small. Lots of folks have done it and say it works well. I have mine running off a new fused circuit I put on my bike for accessories. I don't know what Littlefuse 6 gang dealie you're talking about. Or which dash. In the last two years I've seen the Dutch'n Dash, the BigCee type dash, a handlebar mounted dash and one pretty goofy looking obviously homemade dash, on KLRs. I made a BigCee type dash and ran all my wiring under it. I did one about a month ago with Martin Earl and it took me about 6 hours to get all the wiring in place under the dash and then another few hours to do the wiring on the bike including quick disconnects for all the wires from the dash/cowling to the bike. If you want a picture I think I still have one on my puter. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT On Thu, 03 Nov 2005 01:21:03 -0000 "thumbtrap43" writes:

> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Chris Riffe > wrote: > > Whats Tammy's web address?? > > http://www.totallywiredcycles.com/shop/catalog/ > > I just ordered my heated grips (DualStar), thinking about doing the > fuses and the dash at the same time. Tammy sells a fuse relocation > kit, a fan fuse kit, and an accessory fuse kit, but I'm not sure > how > they all relate. > > 1) Do I need all three to go entirely to ATO fuses? > 2) Will all three fit on the starter switch cover? > 3) Is the city light circuit on the headlight fuse? > > Alternatively, anybody with a dash, is the LittleFuse 6 gang > dealie > on the dash a viable alternative (ie, is it weatherproof, is it too > much hassle to route everything up there, etc...) > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > >

[Jeff Saline]

James, I'm sure glad a bigger fuse is working for you. I'd caution that the reason the fuse is in the system is to protect the wiring and electrical components. A larger fuse probably won't protect the system as the wires may be smaller than the fuse. At the technical institute where I work we give a demonstration of what happens when the wiring harness isn't properly protected. First we allow it to let the smoke out, and second, if we're lucky, to catch on fire. After that demo most of the students think the proper size fuse is a good idea. When your original fuse was blowing it was trying to tell you the system was overloaded. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT On Wed, 2 Nov 2005 22:49:16 EST JIMBONE42085@... writes: i hooked my heated grips to my city lights and if the grips are on high and so is my headlight it will blow fuses you have got to put a 20 amp fuse in or wire it to something else it works perfect for me i kept blowing fuses on my 6000 mile ride in Yellowstone and estes park is were we finally figured it out and i put a bigger fuse in and no more problems James Kansas city Kansas [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Stuart Mumford]

> -----Original Message----- > James, > > I'm sure glad a bigger fuse is working for you. I'd caution that the > reason the fuse is in the system is to protect the wiring and electrical > components. A larger fuse probably won't protect the system as the wires > may be smaller than the fuse. > > At the technical institute where I work we give a demonstration of what > happens when the wiring harness isn't properly protected. First we allow > it to let the smoke out, and second, if we're lucky, to catch on fire. > After that demo most of the students think the proper size fuse is a good > idea. > > When your original fuse was blowing it was trying to tell you the system > was overloaded. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > > On Wed, 2 Nov 2005 22:49:16 EST JIMBONE42085@... writes: > i hooked my heated grips to my city lights and if the grips are on high > and so is my headlight it will blow fuses you have got to put a 20 amp > fuse in or wire it to something else it works perfect for me > > i kept blowing fuses on my 6000 mile ride in Yellowstone and estes park > is were we finally figured it out and i put a bigger fuse in and no more > problems > > James Kansas city Kansas >

The stock headlight fuse will eventually blow. I don't know whether it's from overloading the system, or from vibration, but I went with the blade type kit (got rid of those darn old style glass fuses) from Tammy, and I haven't had any fuses blow since. Thanks CA Stu