was: 2005 klr 650 now: klr electrical usage

[Jeff Saline]

Ken, Other interested Listers, Since this seems to be of interest to quite a few folks, I just got back from my shop where I did a few electrical tests on MY bike. Here's what I did. I used a Craftsman digital multimeter number 82139, which has a 10 amp range and goes on sale pretty regularly at Sears for about $19. I pulled the side covers and seat so I could get to the top of the battery and the white wire coming off the positive post. I hooked the meter up for the 10 amp range and connected it in SERIES at the bullet connector for the white wire. Please remember I've done a few electrical changes to my bike so you may get a different reading on yours. But these readings should be close. - With the headlight off, key on, I got a reading of 1.51 amps. I think this only taillight & instrument lights. - With the headlight on, key on, I got a reading of 5.43 amps. Low beam drawing 3.92 amps. - With the headlight on high beam, key on I got a reading of 6.10 amps. High beam drawing 4.59 amps. - With the headlight off, key on, fan on, I got a reading of 3.83 amps. Fan drawing 2.32 amps. - With the headlight off, key on, horn blowing, I got a reading of 3.08 amps. Horn drawing 1.57 amps. - With the headlight off, key on, Dual Star LED Brake light on, I got a reading of 1.93 amps. LED brake light drawing 0.42 amps. - My heated grips are on a different circuit and I got readings of 1.55 amps and 2.75 amps. - My Gr8 Design heated vest pulled 2.21 amps. - I didn't test my heated gloves. My battery was reading about 12.05 volts. Yes I know I'm on the verge of battery failure. Thank you very much. : ) The factory manual says the alternator puts out 14 amps @ 8,000 rpm at 14 volts. Remember the conversion is amps x volts = watts. So 14 amps x 14 volts = 196 watts at 8,000 rpm @ 14 volts The KLR engine I understand uses a magneto type system so that doesn't put a drain on the battery or charging system. So when my bike is running down the road here's what I suppose I'm using electrically: Normal instrument lights, tail light (remember I have a dual star LED rear light, I suppose the stock uses maybe 0.8 amp [8-12 watts] more) and headlight (mine is stock at 55 watts). That adds up as follows: - Normal instrument lights & tail light = 1.51 amps @ 12.05 volts - Headlight on low beam = 3.92 amps @ 12.05 volts TOTAL = 5.43 amps @ 12.05 volts Converted to watts that is 5.43 amps x 12.05 volts = 65.43 watts - If you are running a stock high beam headlight, that uses 5 more watts and increases use to 70.43 watts. - Apply the brakes and you are using an additional 0.42 amps or 0.42 amps x 12.05 volts = 5.05 watts. - Blow the horn and it takes an additional 1.57 amps or 1.57 amps x 12.05 volts = 19.63 watts. So, I suppose a KLR running down the road without extra lights, heated grips or other accessories, but running high beam, applying the brakes and blowing the horn is using about 95 watts. This should probably leave (I'm guessing here) about 100 watts for other stuff if you're having a real good day and your charging system is working well. But, since the brake light and horn are not used all the time you are probably really only using about 70-75 watts*. For most folks that probably leaves a solid 100 watts to play with. But your battery better be in good shape and you must be keeping the rpms up and running long enough to charge the battery after cranking. Someone on this list I think recently stated it takes about 1 minute of charging for each second of cranking. If you are using all your charging capability to make extra electrical stuff work, your battery won't be getting charged. *If you have a stock tail/brake light you should probably add 8-12 watts to the total. Why is watts a better number than amps for this? The amperage draw of a device will change based on the voltage used. The watts will remain the same. An example is a light bulb. A 55 watt headlight at 12 volts will draw 55 watts / 12 volts = 4.58 amps. The same 55 watt headlight at 14 volts will draw 55 watts / 14 volts = 3.93 amps. So... converting amps to watts will probably give you a better number to work with. Last thing for this post. Electricity only works well with clean, solid connections and wires large enough to handle the load. In other words, a dirty or corroded connection will reduce the ability of the electricity to do what you ask of it. You can do your part by making sure connections are tight and clean. Making sure wiring you've had added to your system is of a size large enough to do the job and connections are well made is important. Keeping the fluid level in your battery at the correct level will help your battery perform as you'd like it to. Please let me know how to make this easier for you to understand. Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Paulo Alves]

Jeff, That works for me! Very well presented! Thanks for all the work you put into this info. I am sure it will answer a lot of questions.. Paulo --- Jeff Saline wrote:

> Ken, Other interested Listers, > > Since this seems to be of interest to quite a few > folks, I just got back > from my shop where I did a few electrical tests on > MY bike. Here's what > I did. I used a Craftsman digital multimeter number > 82139, which has a > 10 amp range and goes on sale pretty regularly at > Sears for about $19. I > pulled the side covers and seat so I could get to > the top of the battery > and the white wire coming off the positive post. I > hooked the meter up > for the 10 amp range and connected it in SERIES at > the bullet connector > for the white wire. Please remember I've done a few > electrical changes > to my bike so you may get a different reading on > yours. But these > readings should be close. > > - With the headlight off, key on, I got a reading of > 1.51 amps. I think > this only taillight & instrument lights. > - With the headlight on, key on, I got a reading of > 5.43 amps. Low beam > drawing 3.92 amps. > - With the headlight on high beam, key on I got a > reading of 6.10 amps. > High beam drawing 4.59 amps. > - With the headlight off, key on, fan on, I got a > reading of 3.83 amps. > Fan drawing 2.32 amps. > - With the headlight off, key on, horn blowing, I > got a reading of 3.08 > amps. Horn drawing 1.57 amps. > - With the headlight off, key on, Dual Star LED > Brake light on, I got a > reading of 1.93 amps. LED brake light drawing 0.42 > amps. > - My heated grips are on a different circuit and I > got readings of 1.55 > amps and 2.75 amps. > - My Gr8 Design heated vest pulled 2.21 amps. > - I didn't test my heated gloves. > > My battery was reading about 12.05 volts. Yes I > know I'm on the verge of > battery failure. Thank you very much. : ) > > The factory manual says the alternator puts out 14 > amps @ 8,000 rpm at 14 > volts. Remember the conversion is amps x volts = > watts. So 14 amps x 14 > volts = 196 watts at 8,000 rpm @ 14 volts > > The KLR engine I understand uses a magneto type > system so that doesn't > put a drain on the battery or charging system. So > when my bike is > running down the road here's what I suppose I'm > using electrically: > > Normal instrument lights, tail light (remember I > have a dual star LED > rear light, I suppose the stock uses maybe 0.8 amp > [8-12 watts] more) and > headlight (mine is stock at 55 watts). That adds up > as follows: > > - Normal instrument lights & tail light = 1.51 amps > @ 12.05 volts > - Headlight on low beam = 3.92 amps @ 12.05 volts > TOTAL = 5.43 amps @ 12.05 volts > Converted to watts that is 5.43 amps x 12.05 volts > = 65.43 watts > > - If you are running a stock high beam headlight, > that uses 5 more watts > and increases use to 70.43 watts. > - Apply the brakes and you are using an additional > 0.42 amps or 0.42 amps > x 12.05 volts = 5.05 watts. > - Blow the horn and it takes an additional 1.57 amps > or 1.57 amps x 12.05 > volts = 19.63 watts. > > So, I suppose a KLR running down the road without > extra lights, heated > grips or other accessories, but running high beam, > applying the brakes > and blowing the horn is using about 95 watts. This > should probably leave > (I'm guessing here) about 100 watts for other stuff > if you're having a > real good day and your charging system is working > well. But, since the > brake light and horn are not used all the time you > are probably really > only using about 70-75 watts*. For most folks that > probably leaves a > solid 100 watts to play with. But your battery > better be in good shape > and you must be keeping the rpms up and running long > enough to charge the > battery after cranking. Someone on this list I > think recently stated it > takes about 1 minute of charging for each second of > cranking. If you are > using all your charging capability to make extra > electrical stuff work, > your battery won't be getting charged. > *If you have a stock tail/brake light you should > probably add 8-12 watts > to the total. > > Why is watts a better number than amps for this? > The amperage draw of a > device will change based on the voltage used. The > watts will remain the > same. An example is a light bulb. A 55 watt > headlight at 12 volts will > draw 55 watts / 12 volts = 4.58 amps. The same 55 > watt headlight at 14 > volts will draw 55 watts / 14 volts = 3.93 amps. > So... converting amps > to watts will probably give you a better number to > work with. > > Last thing for this post. Electricity only works > well with clean, solid > connections and wires large enough to handle the > load. In other words, a > dirty or corroded connection will reduce the ability > of the electricity > to do what you ask of it. You can do your part by > making sure > connections are tight and clean. Making sure wiring > you've had added to > your system is of a size large enough to do the job > and connections are > well made is important. Keeping the fluid level in > your battery at the > correct level will help your battery perform as > you'd like it to. > > Please let me know how to make this easier for you > to understand. > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > > Archive Quicksearch at: >

http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html

> List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: > www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: > www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > DSN_KLR650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > > >

__________________________________ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com

[Blake Sobiloff]

On Oct 31, 2005, at 4:25 PM, Jeff Saline wrote:

> Since this seems to be of interest to quite a few folks, I just got > back > from my shop where I did a few electrical tests on MY bike.

Well done, Jeff, well done! You and Bill are cranking out some wonderful, valuable information. -- Blake Sobiloff San Jose, CA (USA)

[kmuenster@charter.net]

Jeff, An excellent review and this from a novice, inexperienced electrician. I have just recently purchased a trickle charger for my wife?s Suzuki Intruder being its cold natured and hard to get cranked at times. I would assume this same trickle charger designed for motorcycles would benefit those of us consuming the other 100 available watts, thus keeping the battery at its optimal capacity? I personally do appreciate your thorough comments and input as well as the others in the KLR Group that have added their thoughts and comments. Didn't realize I would stir up this much interest. Ken A19

> > From: Jeff Saline > Date: 2005/10/31 Mon PM 07:25:48 EST > To: kmuenster@..., DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > CC: mjearl@... > Subject: Was: 2005 KLR 650 Now: KLR Electrical Usage > > Ken, Other interested Listers, > > Since this seems to be of interest to quite a few folks, I just got back > from my shop where I did a few electrical tests on MY bike. Here's what > I did. I used a Craftsman digital multimeter number 82139, which has a > 10 amp range and goes on sale pretty regularly at Sears for about $19. I > pulled the side covers and seat so I could get to the top of the battery > and the white wire coming off the positive post. I hooked the meter up > for the 10 amp range and connected it in SERIES at the bullet connector > for the white wire. Please remember I've done a few electrical changes > to my bike so you may get a different reading on yours. But these > readings should be close. > > - With the headlight off, key on, I got a reading of 1.51 amps. I think > this only taillight & instrument lights. > - With the headlight on, key on, I got a reading of 5.43 amps. Low beam > drawing 3.92 amps. > - With the headlight on high beam, key on I got a reading of 6.10 amps. > High beam drawing 4.59 amps. > - With the headlight off, key on, fan on, I got a reading of 3.83 amps. > Fan drawing 2.32 amps. > - With the headlight off, key on, horn blowing, I got a reading of 3.08 > amps. Horn drawing 1.57 amps. > - With the headlight off, key on, Dual Star LED Brake light on, I got a > reading of 1.93 amps. LED brake light drawing 0.42 amps. > - My heated grips are on a different circuit and I got readings of 1.55 > amps and 2.75 amps. > - My Gr8 Design heated vest pulled 2.21 amps. > - I didn't test my heated gloves. > > My battery was reading about 12.05 volts. Yes I know I'm on the verge of > battery failure. Thank you very much. : ) > > The factory manual says the alternator puts out 14 amps @ 8,000 rpm at 14 > volts. Remember the conversion is amps x volts = watts. So 14 amps x 14 > volts = 196 watts at 8,000 rpm @ 14 volts > > The KLR engine I understand uses a magneto type system so that doesn't > put a drain on the battery or charging system. So when my bike is > running down the road here's what I suppose I'm using electrically: > > Normal instrument lights, tail light (remember I have a dual star LED > rear light, I suppose the stock uses maybe 0.8 amp [8-12 watts] more) and > headlight (mine is stock at 55 watts). That adds up as follows: > > - Normal instrument lights & tail light = 1.51 amps @ 12.05 volts > - Headlight on low beam = 3.92 amps @ 12.05 volts > TOTAL = 5.43 amps @ 12.05 volts > Converted to watts that is 5.43 amps x 12.05 volts = 65.43 watts > > - If you are running a stock high beam headlight, that uses 5 more watts > and increases use to 70.43 watts. > - Apply the brakes and you are using an additional 0.42 amps or 0.42 amps > x 12.05 volts = 5.05 watts. > - Blow the horn and it takes an additional 1.57 amps or 1.57 amps x 12.05 > volts = 19.63 watts. > > So, I suppose a KLR running down the road without extra lights, heated > grips or other accessories, but running high beam, applying the brakes > and blowing the horn is using about 95 watts. This should probably leave > (I'm guessing here) about 100 watts for other stuff if you're having a > real good day and your charging system is working well. But, since the > brake light and horn are not used all the time you are probably really > only using about 70-75 watts*. For most folks that probably leaves a > solid 100 watts to play with. But your battery better be in good shape > and you must be keeping the rpms up and running long enough to charge the > battery after cranking. Someone on this list I think recently stated it > takes about 1 minute of charging for each second of cranking. If you are > using all your charging capability to make extra electrical stuff work, > your battery won't be getting charged. > *If you have a stock tail/brake light you should probably add 8-12 watts > to the total. > > Why is watts a better number than amps for this? The amperage draw of a > device will change based on the voltage used. The watts will remain the > same. An example is a light bulb. A 55 watt headlight at 12 volts will > draw 55 watts / 12 volts = 4.58 amps. The same 55 watt headlight at 14 > volts will draw 55 watts / 14 volts = 3.93 amps. So... converting amps > to watts will probably give you a better number to work with. > > Last thing for this post. Electricity only works well with clean, solid > connections and wires large enough to handle the load. In other words, a > dirty or corroded connection will reduce the ability of the electricity > to do what you ask of it. You can do your part by making sure > connections are tight and clean. Making sure wiring you've had added to > your system is of a size large enough to do the job and connections are > well made is important. Keeping the fluid level in your battery at the > correct level will help your battery perform as you'd like it to. > > Please let me know how to make this easier for you to understand. > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT >

[klrz4ever]

Great post, Jeff. That one's a keeper. It's good to know we have about 100 watts in the bank on the KLR. __Arden

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > Ken, Other interested Listers, > > Since this seems to be of interest to quite a few folks, I just got back > from my shop where I did a few electrical tests on MY bike. Here's what > I did. I used a Craftsman digital multimeter number 82139, which has a > 10 amp range and goes on sale pretty regularly at Sears for about $19. I > pulled the side covers and seat so I could get to the top of the battery > and the white wire coming off the positive post. I hooked the meter up > for the 10 amp range and connected it in SERIES at the bullet connector > for the white wire. Please remember I've done a few electrical changes > to my bike so you may get a different reading on yours. But these > readings should be close. > > - With the headlight off, key on, I got a reading of 1.51 amps. I think > this only taillight & instrument lights. > - With the headlight on, key on, I got a reading of 5.43 amps. Low beam > drawing 3.92 amps. > - With the headlight on high beam, key on I got a reading of 6.10 amps. > High beam drawing 4.59 amps. > - With the headlight off, key on, fan on, I got a reading of 3.83 amps. > Fan drawing 2.32 amps. > - With the headlight off, key on, horn blowing, I got a reading of 3.08 > amps. Horn drawing 1.57 amps. > - With the headlight off, key on, Dual Star LED Brake light on, I got a > reading of 1.93 amps. LED brake light drawing 0.42 amps. > - My heated grips are on a different circuit and I got readings of 1.55 > amps and 2.75 amps. > - My Gr8 Design heated vest pulled 2.21 amps. > - I didn't test my heated gloves. > > My battery was reading about 12.05 volts. Yes I know I'm on the verge of > battery failure. Thank you very much. : ) > > The factory manual says the alternator puts out 14 amps @ 8,000 rpm at 14 > volts. Remember the conversion is amps x volts = watts. So 14 amps x 14 > volts = 196 watts at 8,000 rpm @ 14 volts > > The KLR engine I understand uses a magneto type system so that doesn't > put a drain on the battery or charging system. So when my bike is > running down the road here's what I suppose I'm using electrically: > > Normal instrument lights, tail light (remember I have a dual star LED > rear light, I suppose the stock uses maybe 0.8 amp [8-12 watts] more) and > headlight (mine is stock at 55 watts). That adds up as follows: > > - Normal instrument lights & tail light = 1.51 amps @ 12.05 volts > - Headlight on low beam = 3.92 amps @ 12.05 volts > TOTAL = 5.43 amps @ 12.05 volts > Converted to watts that is 5.43 amps x 12.05 volts = 65.43 watts > > - If you are running a stock high beam headlight, that uses 5 more watts > and increases use to 70.43 watts. > - Apply the brakes and you are using an additional 0.42 amps or 0.42 amps > x 12.05 volts = 5.05 watts. > - Blow the horn and it takes an additional 1.57 amps or 1.57 amps x 12.05 > volts = 19.63 watts. > > So, I suppose a KLR running down the road without extra lights, heated > grips or other accessories, but running high beam, applying the brakes > and blowing the horn is using about 95 watts. This should probably leave > (I'm guessing here) about 100 watts for other stuff if you're having a > real good day and your charging system is working well. But, since the > brake light and horn are not used all the time you are probably really > only using about 70-75 watts*. For most folks that probably leaves a > solid 100 watts to play with. But your battery better be in good shape > and you must be keeping the rpms up and running long enough to charge the > battery after cranking. Someone on this list I think recently stated it > takes about 1 minute of charging for each second of cranking. If you are > using all your charging capability to make extra electrical stuff work, > your battery won't be getting charged. > *If you have a stock tail/brake light you should probably add 8-12 watts > to the total. > > Why is watts a better number than amps for this? The amperage draw of a > device will change based on the voltage used. The watts will remain the > same. An example is a light bulb. A 55 watt headlight at 12 volts will > draw 55 watts / 12 volts = 4.58 amps. The same 55 watt headlight at 14 > volts will draw 55 watts / 14 volts = 3.93 amps. So... converting amps > to watts will probably give you a better number to work with. > > Last thing for this post. Electricity only works well with clean, solid > connections and wires large enough to handle the load. In other words, a > dirty or corroded connection will reduce the ability of the electricity > to do what you ask of it. You can do your part by making sure > connections are tight and clean. Making sure wiring you've had added to > your system is of a size large enough to do the job and connections are > well made is important. Keeping the fluid level in your battery at the > correct level will help your battery perform as you'd like it to. > > Please let me know how to make this easier for you to understand. > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT >

[Fred Hink]

Don't forget that this wattage rating is at 8000 rpms. How often do you run your engine at 8K? The charging system is going to put out fewer watts at fewer rpms. Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com

----- Original Message ----- From: "klrz4ever" To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 7:46 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Was: 2005 KLR 650 Now: KLR Electrical Usage > Great post, Jeff. That one's a keeper. It's good to know we have > about 100 watts in the bank on the KLR. > > __Arden > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: >> >> Ken, Other interested Listers, >> >> The factory manual says the alternator puts out 14 amps @ 8,000 rpm > at 14 >> volts. Remember the conversion is amps x volts = watts. So 14 > amps x 14 >> volts = 196 watts at 8,000 rpm @ 14 volts >>

[clint lee jin yew]

but i was under the impression that the battery gets 14v into it when the engine is running at ANY speed coz the regulator changes the extra V's to heat. also an important note here, yes heat does play a role in the rate that electicity runs around. an over heating / very hot engine for a long time will give out different( higher) numbers. i have known many cases here where all sorts of bikes suffer from over charged batteries coz they were stuck at the immigration checkpoint at standstill traffic for more than 20 minutes to 2 hours. some get rotten even when idle. some burn off when you gas it less than 10 km away. some had burnt coils , some rectifiers, and some with boiling batteries coz the rectifiers got burnt coz the coil was giving too large ammounts of juice. clint

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > Don't forget that this wattage rating is at 8000 rpms. How often do you run > your engine at 8K? The charging system is going to put out fewer watts at > fewer rpms. > > Fred > www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "klrz4ever" > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 7:46 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Was: 2005 KLR 650 Now: KLR Electrical Usage > > > > Great post, Jeff. That one's a keeper. It's good to know we have > > about 100 watts in the bank on the KLR. > > > > __Arden > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > >> > >> Ken, Other interested Listers, > >> > >> The factory manual says the alternator puts out 14 amps @ 8,000 rpm > > at 14 > >> volts. Remember the conversion is amps x volts = watts. So 14 > > amps x 14 > >> volts = 196 watts at 8,000 rpm @ 14 volts > >> >

[Eugene W Zortea Jr]

idle at 1250 or there abouts....normal idle -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of J Fortner Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 2:59 PM To: Eugene W Zortea Jr Cc: clint lee jin yew; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Was: 2005 KLR 650 Now: KLR Electrical Usage

On 11/1/05, J Fortner wrote: > On 11/1/05, Eugene W Zortea Jr wrote: > > well i put a tester on my battery and it was putting out 14 volts at an > > idle. go figure > > hmm where were was the 14V measured? What was the idle speed? > Sure enough you are right. My A7 read 13.3V accross the battery with the engine OFF and 14.5V accross the battery at 1K idle. Probably a difference in current output between 1K and higher RPMs. Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links

[Eugene W Zortea Jr]

it was measured at the battery terminals -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of J Fortner Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 2:59 PM To: Eugene W Zortea Jr Cc: clint lee jin yew; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Was: 2005 KLR 650 Now: KLR Electrical Usage

On 11/1/05, J Fortner wrote: > On 11/1/05, Eugene W Zortea Jr wrote: > > well i put a tester on my battery and it was putting out 14 volts at an > > idle. go figure > > hmm where were was the 14V measured? What was the idle speed? > Sure enough you are right. My A7 read 13.3V accross the battery with the engine OFF and 14.5V accross the battery at 1K idle. Probably a difference in current output between 1K and higher RPMs. Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links