how fast am i going?

[kenny87107]

I have a problem and need help. I attempted to adjust the valves on my A15 following Marks instructions and screwed it up. I don't have a garage and was loosing light as I was finishing. I didn't realize that the right exhaust shim was not fully seated in the tappet cup. I attempted to rotate the engine counter clockwise and came up on a bind. I was impacient and probably used too much force. I got out the flashlight and then saw the shim out of place. When I loosened the cap and repositioned the shim and torqued it up again the engine turned over freely but when I rechecked the valve clearances the right exhaust was way too open. Further inspection showed that the cup seemed to be set lower than the other ones and no longer turned freely. Any ideas on what to do next? I would rather not pull the head if I can avoid it. Thanks in advance for any and all ideas. Kenny

[Jim]

Kenny, I have been through this exact same situation with a friends bike but worse, he snapped a shim in two when it was not fully seated and he rotated the engine well past the "bind". This can be fixed without removing the head but take your time, label everything you remove, keep things clean and do it right. You will have to remove the cams first so get the motor at TDC, pull off the internal cam chain guard, remove the cams and wire up the chain so that it will not fall into the motor or relocate itself off the lower cogs. The shim buckets fit over the valve and spring and if it is not returning to its full upright position then the out of place shim has nicked the aluminum bore surrounding the bucket preventing it from moving smoothly. The bucket should lift up and out and rotate in the bore easily. Mess around with one of the others to get an idea how it should work first, then take a light and find the problem on the bad one. Next thing we did was to make a cardboard cutout to sit tightly in the bore and on top of the bucket to keep debris out of the engine then using at first a sharp chisel (this one was dinged badly) we removed the burr then smoothed the bore with a dremel grinding wheel until we could remove the bucket. We finished the job with the dremel then fine wet/dry sand paper finally vacuuming the debris, and carefully removed the carboard plug, oiled it up good, reinstalled the cams, aligned the arrows on the cam gears,(count the chain pins and there should be 45 pins from cam gear to cam gear not including the ones at the scribe marks). This is diagramed in the KLR origional service manual. Once you have it back together (and the shims in place) torque the cam caps, check the clearance and spin the motor by hand several rotations to confirm the cam alignment is correct. Don't get discouraged this can be fixed if you do not have a shop manual then maybe a Clymers will work as well but not having one of those I'm not certain. Perhaps someone can look at their copy for sure before you locate one. For those of you doing your own valve adjustments BE SURE all the shims are fully seated before you tighten down the cam caps then check them again before you attempt to rotate the engine. Any questions please do not hesitate to ask. Oh and my friends bike ran fine afterwards until his rectifier quit 200 miles from home, but that was unrelated. Keep us posted on your progress K? --Jim A-15

> I have a problem and need help. I attempted to adjust the valves on my > A15 following Marks instructions and screwed it up. I don't have a > garage and was loosing light as I was finishing. I didn't realize that > the right exhaust shim was not fully seated in the tappet cup. I > attempted to rotate the engine counter clockwise and came up on a > bind. I was impacient and probably used too much force. I got out the > flashlight and then saw the shim out of place. When I loosened the cap > and repositioned the shim and torqued it up again the engine turned > over freely but when I rechecked the valve clearances the right exhaust > was way too open. Further inspection showed that the cup seemed to be > set lower than the other ones and no longer turned freely. Any ideas > on what to do next? I would rather not pull the head if I can avoid > it. Thanks in advance for any and all ideas. > Kenny >

[Pat Schmid]

Jim, Ain't that bike running again? That rectifier went out back in July when we were camping along the Stanilaus. Pat G'ville, NV

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" wrote: > > > Oh and my friends bike ran fine afterwards until his rectifier quit > 200 miles from home, but that was unrelated. >

[kenny87107]

Thanks Jim. I will follow your instructions and let you know how it went as soon as I have a chance to get back at the bike. Kenny

[Bogdan Swider]

reinstalled the cams, aligned the

> arrows on the cam gears,(count the chain pins and there should be 45 > pins from cam gear to cam gear not including the ones at the scribe > marks).

Great description, Jim. I'll only add that you can apply something like white nail polish onto the cam chain and adjoining areas on the sprockets after cleaning with mineral spirits. I then find it a little easier to line things up than eyeballing the arrows or counting links. Bogdan

[kenny87107]

A big thank you to Jim, svt and the others who helped me out. The bike is running great. The A15 I was working on actually doesn't belong to me; I have an A17 that also needs a valve adjustment but mine was warm and the A15 weas cold so it became guinea pig. My friend bought the A15 with 9000 miles on it a month ago. It was in pistine condition and well looked after. The former owner kept a carefull service record and receipts for dealer service. On inspection only 1 valve was within spec. It was obvious that the dealer had never checked the clearances. Another big thanks to Mark for the instructions for the valve adjustement. My motorcycle wrenching experience up to now had been on airheads and I had never encountered shim in bucket adjustment before. Slightly different subject; when I changed my doohickey on the A17 at 10,000 miles (thanks again Mark) the spring was broken. I thought Airheads had a great support network but this is even better.

[Jim]

Good deal, but give us the details my man what did it look like, what worked and how did it go? --Jim A-15

> A big thank you to Jim, svt and the others who helped me out. The > bike is running great. The A15 I was working on actually doesn't > belong to me; I have an A17 that also needs a valve adjustment but > mine was warm and the A15 weas cold so it became guinea pig. My > friend bought the A15 with 9000 miles on it a month ago. It was in > pistine condition and well looked after. The former owner kept a > carefull service record and receipts for dealer service. On > inspection only 1 valve was within spec. It was obvious that the > dealer had never checked the clearances. > Another big thanks to Mark for the instructions for the valve > adjustement. My motorcycle wrenching experience up to now had been on > airheads and I had never encountered shim in bucket adjustment before. > Slightly different subject; when I changed my doohickey on the A17 at > 10,000 miles (thanks again Mark) the spring was broken. > I thought Airheads had a great support network but this is even better. >

[kenny87107]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" wrote:

> > Good deal, but give us the details my man what did it look like, what > worked and how did it go? > --Jim > A-15 > > > > A big thank you to Jim, svt and the others who helped me out. The > > bike is running great.

As was suggested, I marked the chain and cam sprockets with nail polish, hung the chain on a wire and removed the exhaust cam. With the cam lobe out of the way I could see the damage. It looked like someone had deliberately peened a spur of the aluminum head over the tappet to hold it in place. I covered everything and then did a little chisel and dremel tool work. The tappet came back up to it's normal position. I cleaned everything up carefully oiled everything and replaced the shim. Having marked the cam sprocket and chain beforehand correctly reinstalling the cam was a no brainer. The nail polish was a great suggestion. After tourqueing down the caps I turned the engine over a few times and rechecked the clearances. They were all within spec on the loose side. The rest went back together without further drama. It started up and has run well since. Again my thanks to all. Kenny A17 R100/7 with Sputnick side car

[Alan L Henderson]

kenny87107 wrote:

> > As was suggested, I marked the chain and cam sprockets with nail > polish, hung the chain on a wire and removed the exhaust cam. With > the cam lobe out of the way I could see the damage. It looked like > someone had deliberately peened a spur of the aluminum head over the > tappet to hold it in place.

I must have missed something or forgot,seems to happen more and more, but how did it happen that the bike got in the condition you describe? Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

[Chris]

Just be sure the model you get has a user programmable wheel size. I had to weed through a bunch of the manuals to find out that many of them only have a preset grid of sizes. Only a few allow you to put in the exact wheel measurements. The Sigma Sport BC1600 definitely does the trick and has the long wire pickup as an option so you don't have to splice the normal one like I did. Only downside is it doesn't have a backlight, you have to rig something.

On 10/14/05, Chris Jennings wrote: > Just go to a bicycle shop and get a computer, that will tell you all you > need to know, odo, trip meter, speed, max speed + more. > > Get one that has a rear wheel mount so you have a longer wire and if you > want you can get one that has programmable odometer so you can put in your > actuall mileage. > > on 10/14/05 9:58, klr650guy at robert.wing@... wrote: > > > High All > > > > My friggen speedo quit working. I figured what the heck, all I nedd to > > know the milage between fill ups. Guess what, it quit working too. > > Last time out, I got this loud clicking sound as I watched the > > Speedo/Odo meter try to rotate itself inside the instrument cluster. > > I pulled the cable, as the sound was anoying. > > > > On my way into work, a 50 mile comute, one way,, I got to thinking, > > when did I put gas into this thing last? > > > > I need a speedo/odometer. If I remeber right, the instrument can be > > replaced seperatly from the tach. I've done it befor. > > > > Anyone got one theyed ilke to part with? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > >