top end/engine needed

[nakedwaterskier]

I cannot imagine having to do a rear inner tube change/repair on the trail. Breaking the bead is relatively easy on the front but the rear is a pain. First tried tire irons; didn't work. Next, tried c-clamps to break the bead; worked but only a little. Next, standing on the tire. THEN, ran over the tire in a few different places on each side with an SUV. We were careful to put plywood underneath to protect the hub and rotor and rim. Drove slowly over the rubber part only of course. Got this idea off of a google motorcycle tire changing searh. Also, the rear brake caliper and pads seem to always be hassle during rear tire/wheel operations. But, they needed bleeding anyways. I was suprised how quickly the brake fluid goes dark. Jeffrey Nakedwaterskier

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "nakedwaterskier" wrote:

> I cannot imagine having to do a rear inner tube change/repair on the > trail. Breaking the bead is relatively easy on the front but the rear > is a pain. First tried tire irons; didn't work. Next, tried c-clamps > to break the bead; worked but only a little. Next, standing on the > tire. THEN, ran over the tire in a few different places on each side > with an SUV. We were careful to put plywood underneath to protect the > hub and rotor and rim. Drove slowly over the rubber part only of > course. Got this idea off of a google motorcycle tire changing searh. > Also, the rear brake caliper and pads seem to always be hassle during > rear tire/wheel operations. But, they needed bleeding anyways. I was > suprised how quickly the brake fluid goes dark. >

It's going to depend on the tire, but I have found that a Motion Pro spoon really helps, perhaps with the aid of a sharp boot heel. A little WD40 can also help move things along, Castor oil would probably work too. The caliper is no trouble at all if you unbolt it from the carrier, and then reinstall it once the wheel is back in place.

[Rodney Copeland]

It crosses my small mind as to how many miles is on the tire, dictates how hard it will be to change. I usually get between 6500 and 9500 miles on my tires and can stomp my tires off the bead. Some of you tubeless street guys prolly have more trouble. What do you get, like 20,000 out of your tires! Jud forgot to mention his practice of using powder.(I like it) What was it again Jud, I forgot, (Foot Powder?). HHHAAAARRRRR!!!! Rod,,,changin tires at my Box is like doin them on the trail anyway

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud Jones" wrote: > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "nakedwaterskier" wrote: > > I cannot imagine having to do a rear inner tube change/repair on the > > trail. Breaking the bead is relatively easy on the front but the rear > > is a pain. First tried tire irons; didn't work. Next, tried c- clamps > > to break the bead; worked but only a little. Next, standing on the > > tire. THEN, ran over the tire in a few different places on each side > > with an SUV. We were careful to put plywood underneath to protect the > > hub and rotor and rim. Drove slowly over the rubber part only of > > course. Got this idea off of a google motorcycle tire changing searh. > > Also, the rear brake caliper and pads seem to always be hassle during > > rear tire/wheel operations. But, they needed bleeding anyways. I was > > suprised how quickly the brake fluid goes dark. > > > > It's going to depend on the tire, but I have found that a Motion Pro spoon really helps, > perhaps with the aid of a sharp boot heel. A little WD40 can also help move things along, > Castor oil would probably work too. > > The caliper is no trouble at all if you unbolt it from the carrier, and then reinstall it once > the wheel is back in place.

[Michael Koch]

The reason you had so much trouble is that it was your first time. It does get easier with practice, but regardless of what or how much you read about tire changing, it can still be a difficult job, under even the best of circumstances. Use the best tools you can find and try not to get frustrated. The one thing that most people don't carry in their emergency tire changing kit is lube. It makes the job MUCH easier. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "nakedwaterskier" wrote:

> I cannot imagine having to do a rear inner tube change/repair on the > trail. Breaking the bead is relatively easy on the front but the

rear

> is a pain. First tried tire irons; didn't work. Next, tried c-

clamps

> to break the bead; worked but only a little. Next, standing on the > tire. THEN, ran over the tire in a few different places on each side > with an SUV. We were careful to put plywood underneath to protect

the

> hub and rotor and rim. Drove slowly over the rubber part only of > course. Got this idea off of a google motorcycle tire changing

searh.

> Also, the rear brake caliper and pads seem to always be hassle during > rear tire/wheel operations. But, they needed bleeding anyways. I

was

> suprised how quickly the brake fluid goes dark. > > Jeffrey Nakedwaterskier

[Gary]

Hmmmm.... all those elaborate techniques for bead breaking make me feel rather simpleminded for taking the valve stem out and riding on the flat tire to break the bead.Don't laugh at me..it works. Regards,Gary

[Andrus Chesley]

< Smiling here > Remembering the time I used Simple Green as a tire lube for Avon Gripsters on my KLR a few years back. I was like too lazy to walk about 40 feet to get my detergent bottle for tire changing and the Simple Green was right there at my work bench. 6 months later I like to never got that bead broken with just tire irons and ended up having to wire brush pieces of stuck rubber and corosion from the rim. The simple green had almost welded the rubber to the rim. If I would of had a flat I wonder how far I could of rode that puppy before the bead broke. Now just use simple dishwashing detergent mixed with water. And, not being so lazy. ... Andy in SW Louisiana

[April Neave & Norm Keller]

As has been said, experience is the most important part of simplifying tire changing. You simply must do the time in the trenches..... Jud mentioned a Motion Pro tire spoon which may be the same one as I have. Mine certainly simplifies breaking the bead. I have done five rear tire flats and one tire replacement on my A18! In 41 years of motorcycling these are the only flats I can remember having so am becoming superstitious (VBG)! There has been a lot of good advice posted here on rear tire changing: use cardboard or plywood on the floor to protect the wheel; be careful not to loose or misplace the rear wheel spacers; remove the brake caliper before the wheel; place something such as a clothes pin half into the caliper to prevent it closing; work with the brake rotor up when the wheel is laid down, etc. After a lot of battles I have had to admit that WD40 is the best solution for me. It seems to go away after a time but gives great lubrication for seating the beads. Using a petroleum product still goes against my training but many who have used WD40 for years professionally swear by it and have noticed no problems so..... HIH Norm

[Analog Aardvark]

The one thing that most people

> don't carry in their > emergency tire changing kit is lube.

Yeah, the first flat I had out in the wild no one had lube at all. Now I carry a little tiny bottle of dish soap with me whenever I'm trail riding. The guys on the lightened this and that DRZs think I'm nuts, but if I never have to change a tire in the sand with no lube again, it'll be too soon. The bike weighs 400 pounds, 4 oz of dish soap is negligible. I didn't finish the thread yet, but a trick people swear by is using a second bike's sidestand to pop the bead... I haven't tried it but folks swear by that method. I tend to use a lot of cussin' myself. -Luke a17 __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com

[John Kokola]

Gread ADVrider.com thread on tire changing here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50717 --John Kokola

[cactus_reese]

For me, I've found a little finesse works best to break the bead. I work my tire irons in between the rim and tire and pry the bead away from the rim by pushing up on one iron while pushing down on the other iron to press the tire off the rim. I use the curved end of the tire iron pressing down on the tire and the straight end of the iron lifting the bead off the rim. This usually works with minimal sweat. If it doesn't go easily I'll dab a little soap mix into the area I'm working and get a piece of 2x4 to place under the downward pressing iron. As others have said, practice improves your abilities in this area. -Bryan --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Analog Aardvark wrote:

> I didn't finish the thread yet, but a trick people > swear by is using a second bike's sidestand to pop the > bead... I haven't tried it but folks swear by that > method. I tend to use a lot of cussin' myself. > > -Luke > a17 > > > > __________________________________ > Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 > http://mail.yahoo.com >