mini stalk turn signals??

[Guest]

OK .. so maybe I lost my temper a little because of the holiday stress. I was having a ... uhm ... little .... trouble getting the wheel back under my lil' Barbie and Ken. Well, I grabbed me a big ol' screwdriver and forced the caliper and the brake pad apart enough to slide in the the rotor and make the back wheel just drop in place. Now, of course, the rear brake pedal just hits the bottom of the range of motion and the bike doesn't make any attempt to stop. Not a problem when the bike is on the rear wheel lift, but on the street, gosh I feel sort of lost without both brakes. Any suggestions? I did try to squeeze it back together a bit. That made no difference. I also beat the caliper with a rubber mallot (as I said .. stress is a little high around here right now). I am not certain, but just prior to me getting my 3 flat in 6 weeks, I thought I heard the rear caliper dragging a bit. I wanna just fix the lack of rear break righ for right now. I have a list of things to do when it gets cold here in Pheonix. Ya know ..that below 60 in the day time just makes it so hard to ride. PauL A9

[Conall]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "PauL - yes the L is upper case" wrote:

> > OK .. so maybe I lost my temper a little because of the holiday > stress. I was having a ... uhm ... little .... trouble getting the > wheel back under my lil' Barbie and Ken. Well, I grabbed me a big > ol' screwdriver and forced the caliper and the brake pad apart

enough

> to slide in the the rotor and make the back wheel just drop in

place.

> > Now, of course, the rear brake pedal just hits the bottom of the > range of motion and the bike doesn't make any attempt to stop. Not

a

> problem when the bike is on the rear wheel lift, but on the street, > gosh I feel sort of lost without both brakes. > > Any suggestions? I did try to squeeze it back together a bit. That > made no difference. I also beat the caliper with a rubber mallot

(as

> I said .. stress is a little high around here right now). I am not > certain, but just prior to me getting my 3 flat in 6 weeks, I

thought

> I heard the rear caliper dragging a bit. I wanna just fix the lack

of

> rear break righ for right now. I have a list of things to do when

it

> gets cold here in Pheonix. Ya know ..that below 60 in the day time > just makes it so hard to ride. > > PauL > A9

Remove the caliper from the bike by removing the two caliper bolts. It's easier to drop the caliper down onto the brake rotor, rather than trying to fit the rear wheel and brake rotor to the caliper/brake pads. New members please read and try to understand...When removing the rear wheel , it's a lot quicker to remove the caliper from the bike first, and upon reassembly, reinstall the caliper after mounting the wheel. Hope this helps,and that I understood the order of the different steps you used in the process. What was the objective, was it brakes or wheel/tire? Conall

[Conall]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Conall" wrote:

> > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "PauL - yes the L is upper case" > wrote: > > > > OK .. so maybe I lost my temper a little because of the holiday > > stress. I was having a ... uhm ... little .... trouble getting

the

> > wheel back under my lil' Barbie and Ken. Well, I grabbed me a

big

> > ol' screwdriver and forced the caliper and the brake pad apart > enough > > to slide in the the rotor and make the back wheel just drop in > place. > > > > Now, of course, the rear brake pedal just hits the bottom of the > > range of motion and the bike doesn't make any attempt to stop.

Not

> a > > problem when the bike is on the rear wheel lift, but on the

street,

> > gosh I feel sort of lost without both brakes. > > > > Any suggestions? I did try to squeeze it back together a bit.

That

> > made no difference. I also beat the caliper with a rubber mallot > (as > > I said .. stress is a little high around here right now). I am

not

> > certain, but just prior to me getting my 3 flat in 6 weeks, I > thought > > I heard the rear caliper dragging a bit. I wanna just fix the

lack

> of > > rear break righ for right now. I have a list of things to do when > it > > gets cold here in Pheonix. Ya know ..that below 60 in the day

time

> > just makes it so hard to ride. > > > > PauL > > A9 > > Remove the caliper from the bike by removing the two caliper bolts. > It's easier to drop the caliper down onto the brake rotor, rather > than trying to fit the rear wheel and brake rotor to the > caliper/brake pads. > New members please read and try to understand...When removing the > rear wheel , it's a lot quicker to remove the caliper from the bike > first, and upon reassembly, reinstall the caliper after mounting

the

> wheel. > > Hope this helps,and that I understood the order of the different > steps you used in the process. What was the objective, was it

brakes

> or wheel/tire? > > Conall

Never mind, I reread the post and see you were fixing a flat tire. Must be past my bedtime. Conall

[Peter Meilstrup]

If you just pump the brake pedal enough (like 10 or 20 times) the brake caliper should self-center. If it doesn't there's something else wrong. Does the caliper move at all when you press the brake pedal? -pm On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 04:33:02 -0000, PauL - yes the L is upper case wrote:

> > > OK .. so maybe I lost my temper a little because of the holiday > stress. I was having a ... uhm ... little .... trouble getting the > wheel back under my lil' Barbie and Ken. Well, I grabbed me a big > ol' screwdriver and forced the caliper and the brake pad apart enough > to slide in the the rotor and make the back wheel just drop in place. > > Now, of course, the rear brake pedal just hits the bottom of the > range of motion and the bike doesn't make any attempt to stop. Not a > problem when the bike is on the rear wheel lift, but on the street, > gosh I feel sort of lost without both brakes. > > Any suggestions? I did try to squeeze it back together a bit. That > made no difference. I also beat the caliper with a rubber mallot (as > I said .. stress is a little high around here right now). I am not > certain, but just prior to me getting my 3 flat in 6 weeks, I thought > I heard the rear caliper dragging a bit. I wanna just fix the lack of > rear break righ for right now. I have a list of things to do when it > gets cold here in Pheonix. Ya know ..that below 60 in the day time > just makes it so hard to ride. > > PauL > A9 > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > >

[Fred Hink]

Check that the brakepads are mounted in the carrier with both "ears" of the brakepads parallel with the carrier. The rear brakepads sometimes come out of this carrier when the rotor is removed from the caliper and this will make the brakes much weaker or mushy. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/cmc.html

----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Meilstrup" To: "PauL - yes the L is upper case" Cc: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 10:07 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Maybe I used too big a screwdriver ... > > If you just pump the brake pedal enough (like 10 or 20 times) the > brake caliper should self-center. If it doesn't there's something else > wrong. Does the caliper move at all when you press the brake pedal? > > -pm > > On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 04:33:02 -0000, PauL - yes the L is upper case > wrote: > > > > > > OK .. so maybe I lost my temper a little because of the holiday > > stress. I was having a ... uhm ... little .... trouble getting the > > wheel back under my lil' Barbie and Ken. Well, I grabbed me a big > > ol' screwdriver and forced the caliper and the brake pad apart enough > > to slide in the the rotor and make the back wheel just drop in place. > > > > Now, of course, the rear brake pedal just hits the bottom of the > > range of motion and the bike doesn't make any attempt to stop. Not a > > problem when the bike is on the rear wheel lift, but on the street, > > gosh I feel sort of lost without both brakes. > > > > Any suggestions? I did try to squeeze it back together a bit. That > > made no difference. I also beat the caliper with a rubber mallot (as > > I said .. stress is a little high around here right now). I am not > > certain, but just prior to me getting my 3 flat in 6 weeks, I thought > > I heard the rear caliper dragging a bit. I wanna just fix the lack of > > rear break righ for right now. I have a list of things to do when it > > gets cold here in Pheonix. Ya know ..that below 60 in the day time > > just makes it so hard to ride. > > > > PauL > > A9

[Eric L. Green]

On Tue, 14 Dec 2004, PauL - yes the L is upper case wrote:

> OK .. so maybe I lost my temper a little because of the holiday > stress. I was having a ... uhm ... little .... trouble getting the > wheel back under my lil' Barbie and Ken. Well, I grabbed me a big > ol' screwdriver and forced the caliper and the brake pad apart enough > to slide in the the rotor and make the back wheel just drop in place. > > Now, of course, the rear brake pedal just hits the bottom of the > range of motion and the bike doesn't make any attempt to stop. Not a

Sounds like you managed to get the rotor onto the wrong side of the brake pad. That's one reason why I always just take the rear caliper off of the bike when I'm taking the back wheel off to change tires or etc... it's a lot easier to fit the caliper over the disk than vice-versa! Here's the secret to disc brakes in general: A big-ass C-clamp. On the KLR, push the piston back so you can easily get the rotor back on, while both brake pads are on the caliper, put a C-clamp with one side on the outside of the piston assembly and the other side is on the outside part of the innermost (to the bike) brake pad. Tighten C-clamp to tighten the innermost brake pad against the brake pad that's closest to the piston. The piston WILL compress, just make sure you stop once the piston is compressed! You can then move the brake pads back apart and easily fit the rotor between them. Once the wheel is on the bike, then pump the brake until it's firm again, and voila! This works on a car's brake piston just as easily as it works on a motorcycle's. I do this as a matter of course when I remove the wheel from my bike, so that I can easily get it back on, and didn't really think about it because I'd always done this when changing brake pads on cars. Of course, I keep relatively fresh brake pads on my bike so they're always a bit chunky... -E

[Keith Saltzer]

> Here's the secret to disc brakes in general: A big-ass C-clamp. > > On the KLR, push the piston back so you can easily get the rotor

back on,

> while both brake pads are on the caliper, put a C-clamp with one

side on

> the outside of the piston assembly and the other side is on the

outside

> part of the innermost (to the bike) brake pad. Tighten C-clamp to

tighten

> the innermost brake pad against the brake pad that's closest to the > piston. The piston WILL compress, just make sure you stop once the

piston

> is compressed! You can then move the brake pads back apart and

easily fit

> the rotor between them.

I push the piston back like that after mounting new pads which are thicker than the old ones. (duh) But for just taking the rear or front wheel off, once I have taken out the caliper bolts, instead of just grabbing it and yanking it off right away I stop and use the rotor itself to push the piston back a bit allowing me to just slip it right back on when I am done. If you grab the caliper firmly in your hand and just give it a few wiggles side to side from the top, and left and right from the back and front of it, it will open right up. Easy smeeshy...JAPaneezy. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

> Once the wheel is on the bike, then pump the brake until it's firm

again,

> and voila! > > This works on a car's brake piston just as easily as it works on a > motorcycle's. I do this as a matter of course when I remove the

wheel from

> my bike, so that I can easily get it back on, and didn't really

think

> about it because I'd always done this when changing brake pads on

cars. Of

> course, I keep relatively fresh brake pads on my bike so they're

always a

> bit chunky... > > -E

[dooden]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Conall" wrote:

> > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "PauL - yes the L is upper case" > wrote: > > > > OK .. so maybe I lost my temper a little because of the holiday > > stress. I was having a ... uhm ... little .... trouble getting the

>

> > Any suggestions? I did try to squeeze it back together a bit. That > > made no difference. I also beat the caliper with a rubber mallot > (as

>

> it > > gets cold here in Pheonix. Ya know ..that below 60 in the day time > > just makes it so hard to ride.

Oh boo hoo.... currently 16 F

> > PauL > > A9 > > Remove the caliper from the bike by removing the two caliper bolts. > It's easier to drop the caliper down onto the brake rotor, rather > than trying to fit the rear wheel and brake rotor to the > caliper/brake pads. > New members please read and try to understand...When removing the > rear wheel , it's a lot quicker to remove the caliper from the bike > first, and upon reassembly, reinstall the caliper after mounting the > wheel. > > Hope this helps,and that I understood the order of the different > steps you used in the process. What was the objective, was it brakes > or wheel/tire? > > Conall

Also a trick I use on these calipers, take a wooden clothes pin, separate the 2 wood sticks, discard the spring. Now you have two hardward long tapered wedges, soon as the rotor leaves the slot insert the thinner ends from opposite directions so they push out squarely on the pads enough to hold them in place. This will allow the caliper to slide back over the rotor when installing it back on after replacing the wheel assembly. Also if the pedal is depressed for any reason the pads have something to stop them and the piston stays in the caliper Ya what he said.. remove the caliper first/install last at least on the rear, the front it kinda easy, but also alot less things to line up. Dooden A15 Green Ape

[cra_fizzer]

I have a set and would NOT buy them again. They use a non standard size halogen bulb. The bulb is around $7. Tony W.

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Glen" wrote: > > has anyone out there used them before and does anyone have any > comments on wether or not they work well. they seem like they are > the cheapest ones as per arrowhead the reason i am wondering is my > rear left is busted up and i wouldn't mind replacing them with > something that is a little more compact so as to avoid having to > replace them again next time. how are they for lighting and such?? > i noticed they are not DOT approved what is the most likely reason > for that?? if it is because they aren't as bright as the stock ones > then i don't want that because i want to show up as much as > possible. > > here is a link to them: > > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/parts_frames.html > > they are under electrical about half way down > > glenski > a14