no start......

[sheldonweaver]

In a session of how not to do a valve shim change (I'll post a "learn from my mistake(s) email" later) I think I may have moved a tooth or two on the cams. How should the arrows on the cam gear and the markings on the rotor (when viewed thru the inspection hole) line up? Yes, I should've bought a service manual. And what are the results of turning the rotor nut clockwise? Mark's write up stearnly says not to do this, but, well, I turned it clockwise for a while. I'm leaving for Mark Van Horn's tomorrow eve (and the labrador trip), so your urgency is greatly appreciated as I like to finish this in the morning and not show up at Mark's with the KLR in the back of the mini-van. Much Thanks, Sheldon A15(or what used to be)

[aboyandhisdawg]

the arrows on the cam gears should point forwards, and the lines should be = paralell with the seating surface on top of the head for the valve cover ga= sket. kinda like this- (DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "sheldonweaver" wrote:

> In a session of how not to do a valve shim change (I'll post a "learn > from my mistake(s) email" later) I think I may have moved a tooth or > two on the cams. > > How should the arrows on the cam gear and the markings on the rotor > (when viewed thru the inspection hole) line up? > > Yes, I should've bought a service manual. > > And what are the results of turning the rotor nut clockwise? Mark's > write up stearnly says not to do this, but, well, I turned it > clockwise for a while. > > I'm leaving for Mark Van Horn's tomorrow eve (and the labrador trip), > so your urgency is greatly appreciated as I like to finish this in > the morning and not show up at Mark's with the KLR in the back of the > mini-van. > > Much Thanks, > Sheldon A15(or what used to be)

[aboyandhisdawg]

the arrows on the cam gears should point forwards, and the lines should be = paralell with the seating surface on top of the head for the valve cover ga= sket. kinda like this- (DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "sheldonweaver" wrote:

> In a session of how not to do a valve shim change (I'll post a "learn > from my mistake(s) email" later) I think I may have moved a tooth or > two on the cams. > > How should the arrows on the cam gear and the markings on the rotor > (when viewed thru the inspection hole) line up? > > Yes, I should've bought a service manual. > > And what are the results of turning the rotor nut clockwise? Mark's > write up stearnly says not to do this, but, well, I turned it > clockwise for a while. > > I'm leaving for Mark Van Horn's tomorrow eve (and the labrador trip), > so your urgency is greatly appreciated as I like to finish this in > the morning and not show up at Mark's with the KLR in the back of the > mini-van. > > Much Thanks, > Sheldon A15(or what used to be)

[Norm Keller]

>2- I don't get this "non-conductive grease makes a bad connection" >thing. You WANT grease that doesn't conduct- that way you don't get >electrolytic corrosion when you bolt two different types of metal >together. The electrical connection is made when you securely bolt >the >contacts down. Anything that breaks the film strength of the grease >(the >dielectric grease is actually pretty light), including bullet >connectors, will get a decent connection if the contacts are clean.

While my position on this is "Do whatever you want as it doesn't affectme." I will add that you might wish to consider the amount of pressure needed to penetrate the grease film strength. Most grease is designed to resist squeeze out so that a film is maintained between two surfaces. The amount of pressure needed to break through the film strength of any common grease is far beyond that present at the battery contact surfaces. What I don't understand is why someone would wish to place a non-conductive material into the battery-cable connection? The best practice is to maintain as much contact area as is possible. Why include an insulating material to begin with? It is far better (IMO) to simply clean the contact surfaces. Tighten, Then seal the assembly if needed. If sealing use any non-corrosive material which will stay in place. We used this practice on marine applications, fleets, and whatever over the last 40+ years because it works and is common trade practice. The reason why bullet connectors, bayonet connectors, spade connectors and the like tolerate the inclusion of grease is because sufficient contact area is created by shearing through the grease during assembly. I don't care about being seen to be right here as it doesn't pay anything but do hate to see people having additional problems due to reducing the contact surface. An additional tip which someone mentioned but may benefit from repeating is to use baking soda and water to neutralize acid which may be present in battery connections and over the battery case. Just be careful not to pour the solution into the battery. Once there is no fizzing present, dry the area (compressed air if available. if not available then you definitely shouldn't use it. VBG) then brush the surfaces, assemble, tighten and seal. HIH Norm P.S. Beautiful explaination, Krokko! --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]