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DSN_KLR650
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The Mule
Posts: 581
Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2001 8:42 pm

steering head bearing adj.

Post by The Mule » Wed Apr 28, 2004 6:13 pm

Greetings; Front end is getting sloppy........time to tighty-up here. Elden's site has a procedure using plastic hammers and light taps on screwdrivers, but I remember watching a couple people doing this used big-ass chisels and hammers and really pounded away. Does the 22mm nut usually go on and off with a wrench or socket without the chisel and hammer? Or is it the notched collar that gets the pounding? Can I get away with using a big crescent wrench on the nut? TIA and T&A! Steve The Mule A17 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hijklr
Posts: 178
Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2003 7:00 pm

steering head bearing adj.

Post by hijklr » Wed Apr 28, 2004 6:47 pm

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "The Mule" wrote:
> Greetings; > > Front end is getting sloppy........time to tighty-up here.
Elden's site has a procedure using plastic hammers and light taps on screwdrivers, but I remember watching a couple people doing this used big-ass chisels and hammers and really pounded away. Does the 22mm nut usually go on and off with a wrench or socket without the chisel and hammer? Or is it the notched collar that gets the pounding? Can I get away with using a big crescent wrench on the nut? Follow page 11-6 of the base manual. You probably can't fit a crescent wrench within the triple clamp bar mounts. If you're lucky you might be able to move the stem locknut in the desired direction with a standard screwdriver blade and carefull hammer. I could only move it so far (without breaking out the chisel) and opted to wait for the "official" Kawi tool - basically a 30 dollar altered tire iron - to arrive. The kawi tool made it very easy. The key is to follow the manual literaly. Loosen everything up as it says, make the adjustment, tighten all back up to torque as it says and check. Repeat this procedure (loosening all up, making the adjustment, tighten to torque and check) untill you're happy. I've heard mentioned that the manual may be messed up on which order the bolts are torqued. I followed the manual and found that I had to use red loctite on the steering stem nut - after twice having to remove the handlbar on the trail to tighten the steering head. Since the loctite, not a problem in 6000 miles and bearing play is still perfect. Kevin A17

Stu
Posts: 399
Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2000 5:03 pm

steering head bearing adj.

Post by Stu » Wed Apr 28, 2004 7:01 pm

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "hijklr" wrote:
> --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "The Mule" wrote: > > Greetings; > > > > Front end is getting sloppy........time to tighty-up here. > Elden's site has a procedure using plastic hammers and light taps on > screwdrivers, but I remember watching a couple people doing this > used big-ass chisels and hammers and really pounded away. Does the > 22mm nut usually go on and off with a wrench or socket without the > chisel and hammer? Or is it the notched collar that gets the > pounding? Can I get away with using a big crescent wrench on the nut? > > Follow page 11-6 of the base manual. You probably can't fit a > crescent wrench within the triple clamp bar mounts. If you're lucky > you might be able to move the stem locknut in the desired direction > with a standard screwdriver blade and carefull hammer. I could only > move it so far (without breaking out the chisel) and opted to wait > for the "official" Kawi tool - basically a 30 dollar altered tire > iron - to arrive. The kawi tool made it very easy. The key is to > follow the manual literaly. Loosen everything up as it says, make > the adjustment, tighten all back up to torque as it says and check. > Repeat this procedure (loosening all up, making the adjustment, > tighten to torque and check) untill you're happy. I've heard > mentioned that the manual may be messed up on which order the bolts > are torqued. I followed the manual and found that I had to use red > loctite on the steering stem nut - after twice having to remove the > handlbar on the trail to tighten the steering head. Since the > loctite, not a problem in 6000 miles and bearing play is still > perfect. > Kevin A17
It's a 27 mm nut... The round notched nut is very easy to tighten with gntle, careful taps of a hammer on a chisel. Remenber, careful, careful, is a lot better than brute force. It also helps to not be in a hurry... Thanks CA Stu

rsanders30117
Posts: 469
Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 11:06 am

steering head bearing adj.

Post by rsanders30117 » Thu Apr 29, 2004 8:24 am

McMaster Carr sells an adjustable head spanner that works perfectly on the steering nut for about $19. I got one & it worked fine.
--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "The Mule" wrote: > Greetings; > > Front end is getting sloppy........time to tighty-up here. Elden's site has a procedure using plastic hammers and light taps on screwdrivers, but I remember watching a couple people doing this used big-ass chisels and hammers and really pounded away. Does the 22mm nut usually go on and off with a wrench or socket without the chisel and hammer? Or is it the notched collar that gets the pounding? Can I get away with using a big crescent wrench on the nut? > > TIA and T&A! > > Steve > The Mule > A17 > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Pierre

steering head bearing adj.

Post by Pierre » Thu Apr 29, 2004 11:11 am

I got a $6 shock adjuster from motion pro. It has a 3/8 hole so you can actually put your torque wrench in it and do a good job (although most of the mechanics I talked to do not seem to bother torquing the steering head). It may require some minor grinding to seat properly although I managed to do 3 different bikes (FZ1/XRL/KLR) with no problem.
----- Original Message ----- From: "rsanders30117" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 6:23 AM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: Steering Head Bearing Adj. > McMaster Carr sells an adjustable head spanner that works perfectly > on the steering nut for about $19. I got one & it worked fine. > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "The Mule" wrote: > > Greetings; > > > > Front end is getting sloppy........time to tighty-up here. > Elden's site has a procedure using plastic hammers and light taps on > screwdrivers, but I remember watching a couple people doing this used > big-ass chisels and hammers and really pounded away. Does the 22mm > nut usually go on and off with a wrench or socket without the chisel > and hammer? Or is it the notched collar that gets the pounding? Can I > get away with using a big crescent wrench on the nut? > > > > TIA and T&A! > > > > Steve > > The Mule > > A17 > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

klrdsn
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2002 7:58 pm

nklr : manly man...

Post by klrdsn » Fri Apr 30, 2004 8:43 am

Please take this disagreement off-line and off the list. Thanks, Kurt Simpson DSN List admin

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