oem exhaust needed/destroyed supertrapp

[Mark St.Hilaire, Sr]

> Anyway, I need an oem exhaust if anyone has one to sell.

Mike, you must live right! And I quote: Selling my stock Muffler on Ebay... item # 2471634101 Also, you may need item# 4103330962 Thanks CA Stu Mark --------------------------------------- KLR650 Motorcycle Website: http://klr6500.tripod.com/

[Bill Self]

Thanks for the tips. I ended up finding a clogged air tube from the upper part of my carb (for air relief on top of float bowl) to be my problem. Some dam bug crawled up that tube to make a nest or something. And I missed that on my earlier quick cleaning routine. I thought sitting for only 2 months was kind of a short time span for varnish problems. I found some resources on the web to make up for my lack of a good shop manual covering CVK40 carburetor for my KLR at: http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html This piece of advise was particularly helpful: "The float level is the first thing that needs to be checked when tuning your carb. If the level is too high, it can cause a rich condition, too low and it can cause a lean condition. If it's not set correctly, any other adjustments you make may have to be redone." Bouncing off that idea and related info., ... I used a clear tube connected to carb drain hole to see float level. ... At first the float level was moving around; too low; then too high to non existent (way too high), ... weird until I figured out the air breather tube attached to top of carb was clogged solid. I now know more about my stock KLR carb and also Seafoam for cleaning out dirty carbs. Thanks, Bill from Redwood Valley, CA

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote: > Myself... I would add Seafoam (tm) to fresh gas, put that in the >tank, hook up a hose to the float bowl, open the drain plug and drain >enough gas out of it till the Seafoam/gas mixture makes it in the carb. > > (Will have to suck on the vaccum hose to make fuel flow) > > Start the bike and when running rotate the idle mixture (Pilot > Circuit) screw out a turn or so, back in 1.5 turns a couple times to > allow enough Seafoamed gas past the needle, then set back to 2.25 > turns out. (thats where mine is) > > Ride bike and see what happens. > > Dooden > A15 Green Ape > > I have seen this Seafoam really clean up sick running small engines > pretty quickly, we use it on generators that come in for service, > since the owners typically only run them while they are using there > Motorhome/RV and there has been some really really sick sounding engines. > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Self" wrote: > > I have a stock 97 KLR 650 with only 10,000 miles on it, that's been > running great until I let it sit for two months without draining the carb. > > > > ... So after charging battery, I could start my KLR with the > "choke on", BUT the engine would NOT rev up. It consistently died > when I opened the throttle. I found that after the engine was warmed > up and I put choke "off", I could THEN get engine to idle AND the > engine would rev up in response to opening the throttle. ... Then on > test drive, I found my bike was NOT so dependable as it cut out now > and then / and died when I put the choke on. > > > > Anyone else out there ever had this particular problem? I'm pretty > sure I've always been able to rev my KLR 650 engine with the choke > "off" or "on" (open or closed) before. And it I forgot about it, I > could drive it with the choke "on"! Isn't that the norm with your > stock KLR? > > > > Well I did a spark plug change, valve adjustment check, changed two > valve shims, changed oil & filter as it was time for a full > maintenance too. > > > > Then BACK to carb: I took it off and kind of quick cleaned it with > Berrryman's B-12 carb cleaner. It looked spotless in the float bowl, > but a little dirty on that small coaster enricher chamber on side of > carb. I took carb apart and blew compressed air through all jets and > little holes I could find (except I did not remove plug to idle > mixture screw). Diaphram looked good and whole. I put it back together > and IT RAN GREAT again for a day of driving in the hills. NOW a few > days later, the problem has returned (dam), and seems worse. In > looking at the slider with mirror via removing air air cleaner, I see > it moving up slowly when I can get the engine to rev, and it sometimes > vibrates a bit at idle. > > > > I'm jazzed at finding this group and KLR 650 info. on the web, which > I've been studying. > > > > Do you think I'm on right track going back to carb and getting at > that idle mixture screw (which has a plug over it)? or - Does anyone > out their have any other ideas for me to check out and pursue? Has > anyone out there ever had this particular problem happen to your KLR? > > > > Thanks in advance, Bill