digest number 4842

[Keith Tyne]

I've been interested in dual sports bikes for sometime and have really enjoyed reading this list for sometime. Does anyone have an opinion as to which of the major dualies (KLR650, Suzuki's DR650, Honda's XR650) has the easiest (lightest) clutch lever pull? I have a left wrist injury that makes hard clutch levers difficult. I've ridden the KLR 650 and found it pretty stiff. Thanks for the help. Keith

[Zachariah Mully]

On Mon, 2004-03-08 at 15:05, Keith Tyne wrote:

> I have a left wrist injury that makes hard clutch levers difficult. > I've ridden the KLR 650 and found it pretty stiff. Thanks for the > help.

Any of these bikes can use a replacement hydrualic clutch. Look at the Dual-Star site for the Magura clutch that is a direct replacement for the OEM KLR cable clutch. Z DC A5X A12X

[Arden Kysely]

What year was the KLR you rode? The clutch got an extra plate in 1996 and pulls easier than the older ones. Don't know about the DR650, but its little brother the DR-Z400S has a very light clutch pull. If you still can't find a bike with an easy enough pull, find one where it's possible to lengthen the pull arm and add some leverage that way. __Arden

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Tyne" wrote: > I've been interested in dual sports bikes for sometime and have > really enjoyed reading this list for sometime. > > Does anyone have an opinion as to which of the major dualies (KLR650, > Suzuki's DR650, Honda's XR650) has the easiest (lightest) clutch > lever pull? > > I have a left wrist injury that makes hard clutch levers difficult. > I've ridden the KLR 650 and found it pretty stiff. Thanks for the > help. > > > Keith

[Keith Saltzer]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Tyne" wrote:

> I've been interested in dual sports bikes for sometime and have > really enjoyed reading this list for sometime. > > Does anyone have an opinion as to which of the major dualies

(KLR650,

> Suzuki's DR650, Honda's XR650) has the easiest (lightest) clutch > lever pull? > > I have a left wrist injury that makes hard clutch levers

difficult.

> I've ridden the KLR 650 and found it pretty stiff. Thanks for the > help. > > > Keith

I just broke my second clutch cable, and it only had maybe 10,000 miles on it. It was on there for maybe 8 months. I noticed that it seemed to need alot of pull to engage it and was curious what other bikes felt like. Just yesterday, while stopped for a break with the other Sunday morning guys that I ride with, I grabbed and pulled on the clutch levers of a KLX, a SV650, and an older GS1150. They were all quite a bit easier than mine. Now I think I am sold on the hydraulic lever. Although a bit pricey, like some of the other stuff that I have purchased for my KLR, I figure that I am going to ride KLR's for the rest of my life and I can always tranfer them from one bike to the next. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[Mark Sampson]

I think the DR650 has a easier clutch pull than the KLR. When I bought my used KLR with only 2,000 miles on it---the clutch pull was terrible--and it was notchy-----it just needed a new cable---it's still fine with 11,000 on it but still not as easy as the DR. My DRZ400S has the easiest pulling clutch of any bike I have ever ridden. Mark Sampson

[Paul Dent]

> Just yesterday, while stopped for a break with the other Sunday > morning guys that I ride with, I grabbed and pulled on the clutch > levers of a KLX, a SV650, and an older GS1150. They were all quite

a

> bit easier than mine.

FWIW my M750 with hydraulic wet clutch (not a dry clutch like most Ducs) has a clutch pull about twice as hard as the KLR's. Sort of ridiculous actually. It's an inside joke among Monster owners. Paul

[Doug Pippin]

I usually don't get involved in these controversial subjects but after reading all the pros and cons on better brakes for the KLR I've decided to give you my opinion. I've had many years of motorcycle racing both on pavement and on the dirt and anyone whose raced knows that those who can brake late into a corner with efficient brakes can get around the course faster than those without good brakes. As far as I'm concerned you cannot have too much front brake on any motorcycle. If your a competent rider and have practiced your braking skills you can modulate a good braking system in any condition including slippery dirt mud sand etc. If you don't have the braking power to start with you can't increase it. So I say for those that think their KLR have good brakes great, continue to use them. For the rest of us a more efficient braking system is an advantage and also a safety factor. Doug ---------- At 10:35 AM 3/8/04, you wrote:

> Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 14:39:59 -0000 > From: "James L. Miller Jr." >Subject: Re: Oversize Rotor now my rant > >I must have the exception to the rule. I can't stand it on the front >wheel, but I can lock up every tire I've ever had on this bike, and that's >normally with just 2 fingers. Kenda Challengers, stock Dunlop, and even >the K270's. I can put them all to howling if I want. I've got no problem >with people buying and selling these, that's not the problem. It's people >outriding their abilities, and blaming a relatively good system for their >own failures. Save your money. Put it to good use, like a safety course >or 2, some "correct" riding gear, an AMA or Blue Ribbon Coalition >donation/membership. Yeah, the existing brake setup is a bit small for a >skinny 21" tire, with a contact patch the side of a postage stamp. But >put the same thing on a 16" or a wider street and you'll be scraping >yourself off the front fender. The RD350 Yamaha's owners found that out >with their measly little front disk. It's the same reason that you use a >cheater bar for rusted nuts. That tiny little brake on the big wheel is >like trying to bust the countershaft sprocket nut off with a 1/4" >ratchet. A 16" rim would be like a 1/2 or 3/4" ratchet on the same nut. >But my nagging question is: how is that new rotor going to get you out of >that "I need more braking power now cause I've outridden my skill level or >road conditions" mess you've already found yourself in before? If you >can't ride within the limits of the bike, it's time for something else, >say a small scooter, until you learn to ride within those limits. Just how >is that new supergrippystoponadime rotor going to give you added stopping >power when you're in the muck, mud, slime, sand, gravel, dirt? I've got >the scars to prove that the front will let you know who's boss on any of >those. I'll settle for my supersloppycan'tstopworthafuckstockone that >still locks it up on the dirt or pavement if I want. More control. But I >like benefit for cost. I couldn't justify the cost of a new hunnerddollar >plastic gas tank just for 50 more miles of range, how could I justify >another $300 for something that will do what I already have. Maybe it's >the "cool" factor, but Pookie definately ain't cool! I grew out of being >cool a long time ago, that's why I bought a KLR. Someone gives me one >free, sorry, no thanks. Cost/benefit ratio just ain't there. I'll just >wait for the glut of them that's sure to show up on Ebay, along with the >rest of the "front-ended, I just couldn't stop in time" bikes. Makes the >parts prices go lower. I've been riding one motorized 2 wheeled thing or >another since I was 5. I'm now 38. Riding outside conditions and you're >abilities will outweigh all benefits of ALL installed devices. I'm >finished ranting. I'll let you guys spend your money. > >millerized > >Flame if you want, I stand by my opinions. And they are that- opinions >based on my years riding. Just because opinions are like assholes >(everyone has one, some stink, some are louder than others, etc.) however >doesn't make them any less valuable. The lesson you learn from the old >guy just might save your life someday. They have for me.

---------- Doug Pippin 828-684-8488 dpippin5@... ---------- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]