rattle...counter balacer?

[T. W. Deckard]

G'day all, I'm wondering if it's worth the extra dollars for the K&N oil filter? Another question for the masses. Is the Clymer manual worth the money? Or is my cash better spent on the factory manual and supplement? Your opinions are greatly appreciated until I get up to speed on KLR's. So for now ------------------------------------ Tom Deckard Columbus, Ohio AMA, BMWMOA & SCCA member '02 Kawasaki KLR 650 "Camouflage" '94 BMW R1100RSL "Turq" '88 Chevrolet K1500 "Big O" '73 Honda CL 350K5 "Sapphire Bullet" '71 Honda CB 350K3 "Ol' Red" (resto) '69 Pontiac Firebird 400, 4spd, convertible "Blkbrd"

[dumbazz650]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Kent" wrote:

> I recently bought a 2003 KLR. In the last couple hundred

kilometers

> I have developed a rattle. I'm only at 1300k's to begin with and

I'm

> afraid that it is the counter balancer chain. I have performed the > adjustment as per Mark's KLR page and I still have the rattle. My > bike has also been in to the shop for it's first service. The

rattle

> appears to be at misc rpms and different speeds and appears to be > coming from the bottom left. Any one else had this rattle...I'm I > missing the obvious? >

Kent, Even using the best of techniques to adjust the balancer system, you can still have a sloppy loose balancer chain. The mating surface that the doohickey fits against is often rough or may even have gouges or other irregularities that prevent the doohickey from being able to easily rotate. So, even though you doing the procedure, the doohickey does not move, and the chain is still loose, and making that rattle. The best solution is to send the inner engine cover to the machinist and have the mating area dressed up so that is is very smooth. This will remove any bumps or nibs, irregularities that prevent the doohickey from easily rotating (Mike of Eagle does this, and I'm sure Jake does too). You may be able to smooth out the area yourself, depending on your skills. A good short term solution is to do the doohickey adjustment by completely removing the outside engine cover, pull off the doohickey and inspect the surface behind it for anything that might be catching that lever. Then replace the doohickey, and adjust it for proper chain tension, nudging it by hand to ensure the chain tension is set to the proper level. Then replacing the cover and testing. If you have not already replaced your oem doohickey, this would be a very good opportunity to take care of that vulnerability. Good luck, and let us know what you find, MarkB

[Matthew Durtsche]

I don't have the clymer manual, but I hear it is well worth the money. I have the factory manuals and they aren't bad, but for me as a beginning mechanic, its not very step by step and I end up using the internet for procedures then the manuals because of how broad it is Matt -----Original Message----- From: T. W. Deckard [mailto:stormbringer_bmw@...] Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2003 1:15 PM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] Oil filter, which one? G'day all, I'm wondering if it's worth the extra dollars for the K&N oil filter? Another question for the masses. Is the Clymer manual worth the money? Or is my cash better spent on the factory manual and supplement? Your opinions are greatly appreciated until I get up to speed on KLR's. So for now ------------------------------------ Tom Deckard Columbus, Ohio AMA, BMWMOA & SCCA member '02 Kawasaki KLR 650 "Camouflage" '94 BMW R1100RSL "Turq" '88 Chevrolet K1500 "Big O" '73 Honda CL 350K5 "Sapphire Bullet" '71 Honda CB 350K3 "Ol' Red" (resto) '69 Pontiac Firebird 400, 4spd, convertible "Blkbrd" List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/