mpls doohickey - tentative date

[Chris]

I don't have a torque wrench so in laymen's terms... Does the axle nut need to be 'jump up and down on the wrench' tight? Or can it be snugged and pinned and be o.k. ? It's pretty tight now, but I could probably get one more notch in the castle nut if I really got on it. I've only got the 1/2" ratchet to use, no breaker bar yet either. I just adjusted the chain, holy hell was it loose, I hadn't checked it yet and took about 1/2" of slack out of it I'd guess. On the sidestand it would touch the swingarm before I adjusted it. Also, what symptoms should I look for as far as noticing if I'm not aligned properly in the back? Looks pretty good, the tick marks are dead on and I made sure I knocked the axle forward and pulled back until it was even to take the slack out of the piece with the mark on it. Changed the oil too, the old oil was shot and the DPO had told me he'd just changed it. I'm glad I did. The old oil barely felt slick and the shifting had gotten a bit notchy. The fresh Rotella-T makes the motor noticeably quieter now. -- ___ ______ _____ __ ________ ___ / _ |< < / == / ___/__ / /_ /_ __/ / __ ____ _ ___ /__ \ / __ |/ // / ****/ (_ / _ \/ __/ / / / _ \/ // / ' \/ _ \ /__/ /_/ |_/_//_/ == \___/\___/\__/ /_/ /_//_/\_,_/_/_/_/ .__/ (_) 8600 miles*Russel Lines*Supertrapp Race* /_/ http://www.panix.com/~cesser/mybike/

[Keith Saltzer]

Tight, is when you tighten it like a man, but not like Arnold Swartzenegger on steroids trying to win a competition, and not like and old lady who has a hard time trying to close the door on her '71 Cadillac. You know, just right tight. It sounds to me like you got it right. I use a 1/2 rachet and never torque that bolt. To tell if you are aligned properly of not, just break out that tape measure that I know you have, and measure from the center of your axle bolt, to the center of your swingarm pivot bolt, on both sides, to see if there is any difference. Don't trust the dash mark lines in the swingarm. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Chris wrote: > I don't have a torque wrench so in laymen's terms... > > Does the axle nut need to be 'jump up and down on the wrench' tight? > Or can it be snugged and pinned and be o.k. ? It's pretty tight now, > but I could probably get one more notch in the castle nut if I really > got on it. I've only got the 1/2" ratchet to use, no breaker bar yet > either. > > I just adjusted the chain, holy hell was it loose, I hadn't checked it > yet and took about 1/2" of slack out of it I'd guess. On the > sidestand it would touch the swingarm before I adjusted it. > > Also, what symptoms should I look for as far as noticing if I'm not > aligned properly in the back? Looks pretty good, the tick marks are > dead on and I made sure I knocked the axle forward and pulled back > until it was even to take the slack out of the piece with the mark on > it. > > Changed the oil too, the old oil was shot and the DPO had told me he'd > just changed it. I'm glad I did. The old oil barely felt slick and > the shifting had gotten a bit notchy. The fresh Rotella-T makes the > motor noticeably quieter now. > > -- > ___ ______ _____ __ ________ ___ > / _ |< < / == / ___/__ / /_ /_ __/ / __ ____ _ ___ /__ \ > / __ |/ // / ****/ (_ / _ \/ __/ / / / _ \/ // / ' \/ _ \ /__/ > /_/ |_/_//_/ == \___/\___/\__/ /_/ /_//_/\_,_/_/_/_/ .__/ (_) > 8600 miles*Russel Lines*Supertrapp Race* /_/ > http://www.panix.com/~cesser/mybike/

[Chris]

Ahh good tip, was just looking up how the string thing was done to double check it.

On Sun, Oct 12, 2003 at 10:13:13PM -0000, Keith Saltzer wrote: > To tell if you are aligned properly of not, just break out that tape > measure that I know you have, and measure from the center of your > axle bolt, to the center of your swingarm pivot bolt, on both sides, > to see if there is any difference. Don't trust the dash mark lines > in the swingarm. > > MrMoose > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > -- ___ ______ _____ __ ________ ___ / _ |< < / == / ___/__ / /_ /_ __/ / __ ____ _ ___ /__ \ / __ |/ // / ****/ (_ / _ \/ __/ / / / _ \/ // / ' \/ _ \ /__/ /_/ |_/_//_/ == \___/\___/\__/ /_/ /_//_/\_,_/_/_/_/ .__/ (_) 8600 miles*Russel Lines*Supertrapp Race* /_/ http://www.panix.com/~cesser/mybike/

[leideli]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Chris wrote:

>> Does the axle nut need to be 'jump up and down on the wrench'

tight?

> Or can it be snugged and pinned and be o.k. ?

I do have a torque-wrench, and I would call it a "heavy snug". With a foot-long wrench, you should be exerting about 70 pounds of force. That is probably quite a bit of effort, but not to the point of putting your full weight on it.

[Guy B. Young II - COG Tech. Ed.]

Chris, Specs.: Front - 58 ft-lbs. Rear - 69 ft-lbs. But in layman's terms: Just as tight as you can get them off in the field with the tools you are carrying. At 06:01 PM 10/12/03 -0400, Chris wrote:

>I don't have a torque wrench so in laymen's terms... > >Does the axle nut need to be 'jump up and down on the wrench' tight? >Or can it be snugged and pinned and be o.k. ? It's pretty tight now, >but I could probably get one more notch in the castle nut if I really >got on it. I've only got the 1/2" ratchet to use, no breaker bar yet >either. > >I just adjusted the chain, holy hell was it loose, I hadn't checked it >yet and took about 1/2" of slack out of it I'd guess. On the >sidestand it would touch the swingarm before I adjusted it.

Chain slack (from the FAQ): "What is the proper chain slack? There should be 2" of play (pushing up and down) center-to-center, midway between the sprockets. The ultimate test is to compress the rear suspension as much as possible (ideally, engine output shaft, swingarm pivot and rear axle in a straight line), and see if the chain gets too tight. You can use tiedown straps to pull down the rear, or use your weight. This can be done by folding yourself over the seat from the right side, placing a wrench on the rear axle nut, and then pulling up on the wrench with your left hand (like you're trying to tighten the nut). This should give you good compression. Check the chain for slack with your right hand." Too tight and you'll smoke the countershaft seal and bearing. Guy

[Chris]

Thanks all for the replies. Yah, I'd say it's quite tight, but not feeling like I'm going to strip the ratchet tight. I don't think it's going anywhere, just wanted to double check that I wasn't missing anything. I tend to be a gorilla on things and I'm trying to behave with the bike as much as possible, as in the two tiny bolts that hold the oil filter housing cover on. When it comes to the big nuts I'm just not used to them yet. Now that I'm catching up on the basics I need to go get some cotter pins to have around. The hillbilly look of the finishing nails I've been slopping in is wearing on me now that the plan is coming together. Thanks again as usual all

On Sun, Oct 12, 2003 at 07:31:30PM -0400, Guy B. Young II - COG Tech. Ed. wrote: > Chris, > > Specs.: > > Front - 58 ft-lbs. > Rear - 69 ft-lbs. > > But in layman's terms: > > Just as tight as you can get them off in the field with the tools you are > carrying. > -- ___ ______ _____ __ ________ ___ / _ |< < / == / ___/__ / /_ /_ __/ / __ ____ _ ___ /__ \ / __ |/ // / ****/ (_ / _ \/ __/ / / / _ \/ // / ' \/ _ \ /__/ /_/ |_/_//_/ == \___/\___/\__/ /_/ /_//_/\_,_/_/_/_/ .__/ (_) 8600 miles*Russel Lines*Supertrapp Race* /_/ http://www.panix.com/~cesser/mybike/

[a boy and his dog]

on my last bike, i used a reusable "hitch pin clip", AKA: "hairpin". this allowed me to adjust the chain without having to replace parts... even something as simple as a cotterpin. for dual-sport abuse, it would peobably be wise to secure tham with some stainless saftey wire, but more for peace of mind since it takes a signifant tug to remove it. if you are flat-prone, it may be an even better idea, however keeping a spare cotterpin or two of each size in the toolkit and/or spare parts kit is still a good idea. fixer

>Subject: Re: Axle nut, how tight is tight? > >Thanks all for the replies. Yah, I'd say it's quite tight, but not >feeling like I'm going to strip the ratchet tight. I don't think it's >going anywhere, just wanted to double check that I wasn't missing >anything. I tend to be a gorilla on things and I'm trying to behave >with the bike as much as possible, as in the two tiny bolts that hold >the oil filter housing cover on. When it comes to the big nuts I'm >just not used to them yet. > >Now that I'm catching up on the basics I need to go get some cotter >pins to have around. The hillbilly look of the finishing nails I've >been slopping in is wearing on me now that the plan is coming >together. > >Thanks again as usual all >

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[Guy B. Young II - COG Tech Ed]

Like these: http://www.mindspring.com/~gbyoung2/misc/klrstuff/jclipfront.jpg and http://www.mindspring.com/~gbyoung2/misc/klrstuff/jcliprear.jpg ) Guy A16 -----Original Message----- From: a boy and his dog on my last bike, i used a reusable "hitch pin clip", AKA: "hairpin". this allowed me to adjust the chain without having to replace parts... even something as simple as a cotterpin.

[mlbanister@aol.com]

In a message dated 10/12/2003 5:42:41 PM Pacific Standard Time, DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com writes: don't have a torque wrench so in laymen's terms... Does the axle nut need to be 'jump up and down on the wrench' tight? Or can it be snugged and pinned and be o.k. ? It's pretty tight now, but I could probably get one more notch in the castle nut if I really got on it. I've only got the 1/2" ratchet to use, no breaker bar yet either. I just adjusted the chain, holy hell was it loose, I hadn't checked it yet and took about 1/2" of slack out of it I'd guess. On the sidestand it would touch the swingarm before I adjusted it. Also, what symptoms should I look for as far as noticing if I'm not aligned properly in the back? Looks pretty good, the tick marks are dead on and I made sure I knocked the axle forward and pulled back until it was even to take the slack out of the piece with the mark on it. IMHO - as tight as you can get using a standard box-end wrench should get you in the ballpark - as far as alignment, I like to measure the clearance between the tire and swingarm on both sides - I have found the notches on swingarms are not always accurate. If you want to get more anal, you can use a long straight edge along each side of the rear wheel and have hours (and beers) of fun checking alignment, but this is more appropriate for Duc owners. Mike B [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Alan L Henderson]

At 07:31 PM 10/12/2003 -0400, you wrote:

>Chris, > >Specs.: > >Front - 58 ft-lbs. >Rear - 69 ft-lbs. > >But in layman's terms: > >Just as tight as you can get them off in the field with the tools you are >carrying. > >At 06:01 PM 10/12/03 -0400, Chris wrote: > >>I don't have a torque wrench so in laymen's terms... >>

So, have I ever told you the story of crushing an internal rear wheel spacer on my first bike by using the tight as you can get off method? Borrow a torque wrench and see what the proper level feels like if you can't afford a torque wrench. Then save up for one. Alan Henderson A13 Iowa