higher windshield?
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- Posts: 144
- Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2003 3:02 pm
racetech gold valve evaluation
A while back someone on this list did a detailed shock
rebuild procedure that sparked my interest. I copied
that web page locally and although it is copyrighted,
no author is listed and most regrettably, I don't
remember the URL or the author.
Subsequently, I bought a used KLR shock for $50. That
way I wouldn't have to decommision my bike and I could
take my time getting everything together. I bought a
Racetech Gold Valve ($149) and Progressive spring
($100) from Precision Concepts in El Cajon, CA (they
came recommended by Eldon Karl and they are relatively
close to me). I also bought a new rubber bumper ($13)
and a new seal head seal (approximately $25). I
purchased a spring removing tool from Harbor Freight
($8) which required some grinding to fit the KLR
spring. All totalled including expensive shock oil,
shipping and tax I am now way over budget at around
$400 for parts. Precision charges $129 labor to do
rebuild, but I was intent on doing this myself and
saving a little bit.
I dissambled the shock and removed the spring
according to the web directions. The hardest part was
removing the epoxy around the filler valve. I watched
the Racetech video on how to rebuild a shock, which
was included with the Gold Valve. Racetech gives you
an Internet access code to retrieve shim settings from
their website specific for your weight and riding
style. Unfortunately, this code works only once and
Racetech does not list a KLR650 only a KLR650R. The
KLR650R really refers to a KLX650 which does not use
the same shock. I called them and after several
go-arounds with unworkable shim stacks that would not
fit the shaft, Racetech said they would never sell
their 40mm Gold Valve to an individual as they don't
make one specific for the KLR.
I called Precision, which is where I bought all the
stuff but they claimed the shim stack was a trade
secret developed with Eldon and they would not supply
this. Since I purchased these items a long time ago,
my choices were to trial error my own stack or pay
Precision $129, I couldn't return. In the end, I had
Precision do the reassembly for which they charged $99
plus $8 for oil.
After installing, I noticed the bike sat up much
higher - the new spring at the softest setting doesn't
sag as much as the stock spring at the hardest
setting. First day riding seemed OK but I actually
liked the stock shock better for street riding. It
seemed like the rebuilt one was underdamped. The next
ride I dialed in two more clicks of dampening which
made the rebuilt shock work much better than the stock
shock. In the end, I am not sure if this mod is worth
$500+ that I have invested - especially on a $2000
KLR. I don't dirt ride enough to truly utilize its
improvement. If I were to do it again, I would just
change the spring and shock oil. That would set you
back $100, plus $10 for a nitrogen charge plus a few
bucks for a couple hundred CCs of shock oil - total
maybe $120. I wouldn't even replace the seal if it
doesn't have too many dirt miles and didn't leak. You
can always throw more money at it later with a gold
valve and Precision rebuild.
-svt-
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- Posts: 3
- Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2003 9:53 am
higher windshield?
I'm 5' 11" and have the 9" Extended Shield from AMA, found them on Ebay. It
works great.
--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "planetequipment" wrote: > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Chris wrote: > > > Wow you 5'6" guys have a quiet ride don't you? > > > I'm 5'6". My riding position places the wind blast exactly at the > middle of my faceshield. It's also fairly noisy/buffety. I tried a > Kawasaki tall w/s. The wind buffeting was so bad it gave me a > headache. It came off after one 200 mile ride. I tried riding > without any w/s. The wind hit me in the chest, but the buffeting > and noise was as bad or worse. I'd like to find a w/s that would > get the wind up over the top of my helmet and not buffet. I suppose > people in hell would like icewater, too. > > Ron
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