250 timing chain help

[bloofuzzyman]

Hi All, I've read the archived messages concerning Happy-Trail's nerf bars for the KLR650, but I still have a few questions, now that those of you who have them have had a chance to ride around with them and maybe drop the bike a few times. 1) how well have they held up to crashes, whether on-road or off- road? From what I can see, the mounting points are all on the center tube of the frame. I would expect them to bend near the mounting points, which could become troublesome. 2) Did they affect the handling of the bike adversely? Was a suspension adjustment enough to compensate? 3) Can you suggest a better option to the nerf bars (eg. the IMS military tank to protect the rad combined with the HT highway pegs/engine guard)? Thanks, Dan.

[Zachariah Mully]

On Fri, 2003-07-25 at 14:51, bloofuzzyman wrote:

> Hi All, > > 1) how well have they held up to crashes, whether on-road or off- > road? From what I can see, the mounting points are all on the center > tube of the frame. I would expect them to bend near the mounting > points, which could become troublesome.

If watching Miller dump his bike multiple times hard on the radiator side is any indication, they do a great job! I was surprised to see that they didn't bend at all. Speaking of which, how is the ankle, Miller? Z DC A5X A12X

[judjonzz]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "bloofuzzyman" wrote:

> 3) Can you suggest a better option to the nerf bars (eg. the IMS > military tank to protect the rad combined with the HT highway > pegs/engine guard)?

Yes. Just the tank.

[James L. Miller Jr.]

I'm sold on them. Having this thing hit the pavement hard on the left side in Feb, and dumping it several times last weekend, I'm impressed. I figured that they'd bend, even just a little bit. They haven't. One of the dumps was a straight up and over on the left side. I went up and off the right, it came down on the left side, just about flat. Other than tweaking the clutch lever, everything was fine. A stock bike would have been pushed home, I think, after that. For the price, I don't think anything else would have protected as well. Plus the nice fact it's a place to stretch out your sore and swollen foot on the way home. Handling? Didn't notice a thing. Someone said they could feel the difference, just in weight. I think they're imagining things. I noticed more "weight" from my paint job than the Bars. I don't have the tank, but as much as I can move mine side to side, I'd hate to chance it for another gallon of fuel. I like the extra protection as compared to the "protection" and another 5-8 lbs of gas to worry about up high. Foot is fine, still about the same size, just less colors to look at. Just greenish yellow right now, no purple left. Ready to ride in another week or so! Still riding to work, as it hurts to PUSH the clutch in! Still, managed to walk around Kings Dominion yesterday. Just don't ask about the shoulder. millerized ("Hmmm, that doesn't look right." ER Doc to me last saturday.) --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "bloofuzzyman" wrote:

> Hi All, > > I've read the archived messages concerning Happy-Trail's nerf bars > for the KLR650, but I still have a few questions, now that those

of

> you who have them have had a chance to ride around with them and > maybe drop the bike a few times. > > 1) how well have they held up to crashes, whether on-road or off- > road? From what I can see, the mounting points are all on the

center

> tube of the frame. I would expect them to bend near the mounting > points, which could become troublesome. > > 2) Did they affect the handling of the bike adversely? Was a > suspension adjustment enough to compensate? > > 3) Can you suggest a better option to the nerf bars (eg. the IMS > military tank to protect the rad combined with the HT highway > pegs/engine guard)? > > Thanks, > > Dan.

[john W]

I just finished installing new valves. I put the head back on and after installing the cams I noticed the timing chain was awfully tight. With the head off and the top of the timing chain in my hand, I can't even turn the crank ..it moves for a while, then stops (I'm turning it counterclockwise per the manual). I tried to open the left case, but to 'get at' the gears for the bottom of the chain it looks like I have to remove the flywheel/magneto. I got the bolt off, but don't have a special tool for actually removing the magneto. Does anyone have any suggestions ? My only other recourse is to take it into (gag) the dealer. I read the doohicky instructions for the 650 and it mentions a 23mm bolt - just crank it in until the thing pops off. Anyone ever have this problem/fix for the 250 ? Tanks mucho ! __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com