n00b: kickstarts, bike parts, suspension arts

DSN_KLR650
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Ted Palmer
Posts: 1068
Joined: Sat Apr 08, 2000 7:09 am

n00b: kickstarts, bike parts, suspension arts

Post by Ted Palmer » Fri Jun 20, 2003 9:10 am

Anthony Newton wrote: [kickstart procedure] I have written up the procedure as outlined in the owners' manual at some earlier stage. It may be searchable in the archives. Briefly, you would leave ignition off, use whatever choke for the conditions, short stabs on the kicklever to get it up to compression, slowly push the kicklever just past compression, return kicklever to the top, then turn on ignition and give the kicklever a big boot. This is/was outlined on a sticker on the fuel tank (at least when it left the factory). They do kick back if you get it wrong, this is one benefit of the electic start as the starter one-way clutch stops the kickback. [...]
> While I was looking at my bike last night, I noticed the fork tubes are 1-1.5" above the triple.
:-( 8000miles and the forks are _still_ there? Where they are at the moment is where the factory puts them to fit the bike better into the crate. Every factory picture of the forks shows the top of the fork tube level with the top of the upper triple clamp. With the forks in the packing position, the bike will not handle right and you will probably slide into the tank when you brake. I did when I bought mine until I figured out what was going on.
> Also, does anyone actually run air in their forks? I know there was a thread on this, but I never saw a good answer. :-/
Leave the fork pressure at atmospheric unless you have some good reason otherwise. Mister_T Melbourne Australia

Seroj
Posts: 9
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 9:07 am

carb trick

Post by Seroj » Fri Jun 20, 2003 10:41 am

Maybe eveyone already knows this trick, but I thought it was pretty slick. I just got a 97 KLR650, and I wanted to go one turn richer on my idle mix screw and also drop the float bowl and clean it. Looking at the carb/airbox, it looked like a lot of work to remove it all. So instead, I just loosened the clamps on the airbox side and the intake side of the carb, removed the throttle cable mount and cables, and then rotated the carb body towards the left side of the bike. I also pulled the heatshield off the header to give me a bit more room. With that, I was able to just line a drill bit up with the idle mix plug and drill it out. It also gave me just enough room to get at the four float bowl screws and drop the float bowl. Getting the float off this way takes about 5 minutes. Seems like the way to go for jetting changes, float cleaning, idle mix settings, etc. I didn't try it, but you might be able to rotate the carb body the other direction to get at the top of the carb and the needle/slide. Seroj 1997 KLR650 1969 BMW R60/2 1998 Ducati 900SS

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