newby adventure tour

[dschoppe2000]

Hi, During routine maintenance, is it common practice to loosen and then retorque the cylinder head nuts and bolts (per the service manual)? On my previous (non-KLR) bikes, I never touched the cylinder head bolts/nuts unless the cylinder head was removed for top end work. Thanks, Don

[Bogdan Swider]

> Hi, > > During routine maintenance, is it common practice to loosen and then > retorque the cylinder head nuts and bolts (per the service manual)? > On my previous (non-KLR) bikes, I never touched the cylinder head > bolts/nuts unless the cylinder head was removed for top end work. > > Thanks, > Don >

Nobody I know does that though with Kawasaki quality control being what it is it might not be a bad idea during the first valve inspection. Bogdan

[monahanwb]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Bogdan Swider" wrote:

> > Hi, > > > > During routine maintenance, is it common practice to loosen and

then

> > retorque the cylinder head nuts and bolts (per the service

manual)? The owners' manuals for airhead BMWs recommends the same head torquing service every 4,000 miles, which of course is not necessary. But it creates lots of work for mechanics, as constant retorquing of head bolts by unskilled backyard mechanics eventually pulls the studs out of the case, effectively ruining the motor. Though I suspect the Kaw's motor doesn't give up its studs quite so easily, it's probably best to leave this job to a qualified mechanic. Bill "if it ain't broke, we'll fix it till it is"

[Devon Jarvis]

I say if it isn't leaking, don't touch them. Devon A15 Bogdan Swider wrote:

> > > > >>Hi, >> >>During routine maintenance, is it common practice to loosen and then >>retorque the cylinder head nuts and bolts (per the service manual)? >>On my previous (non-KLR) bikes, I never touched the cylinder head >>bolts/nuts unless the cylinder head was removed for top end work. >> >>Thanks, >>Don >> >> >> >Nobody I know does that though with Kawasaki quality control being what it >is it might not be a bad idea during the first valve inspection. > >Bogdan > > > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > >

[david gay]

I was taught to check the torque on the head bolts before checking valve clearances. I don't loosen them I just torque to specs. Dave A12 Devon Jarvis wrote:I say if it isn't leaking, don't touch them. Devon A15 Bogdan Swider wrote:

> > > > >>Hi, >> >>During routine maintenance, is it common practice to loosen and then >>retorque the cylinder head nuts and bolts (per the service manual)? >>On my previous (non-KLR) bikes, I never touched the cylinder head >>bolts/nuts unless the cylinder head was removed for top end work. >> >>Thanks, >>Don >> >> >> >Nobody I know does that though with Kawasaki quality control being what it >is it might not be a bad idea during the first valve inspection. > >Bogdan > > > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > >

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[Guy B. Young II - COG Tech. Ed.]

Dave, If you must, you're half right. Torque the head bolts/studs before setting the valves, however, trying to torque what's already tight is giving you a false reading. Over time, the bolts/stud nuts will take a set and will not budge unless you go above the recommended torque. The proper way is to loosen them first (one at a time), then re-torque them back to spec. In addition, the threads of the bolts/nuts should be lubed - either with oil or an anti-seize 9prefer the latter). A long bolt/stud will twist, or torque up, as the mating threads begin to bind. This can also give you a false reading. There have been instances where the threads finally freed up, the tension/energy is released, and it will snap - as in off. My .02 Guy A16 Richmond, VA At 06:45 PM 4/3/03 -0800, david gay wrote:

> >I was taught to check the torque on the head bolts before checking valve

clearances. I don't loosen them I just torque to specs.

> >Dave A12

[L L]

My right side bolts were striped out when i got it, it looked like some type of metal coil was used to fix, but broke apart when i did valve job, I know they sell kits to fix the thread, bout I just jb welded them in there until i could drill and tap them bigger. seemed like they were threaded into aluminum.

>From: "monahanwb" >To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: Retorque cylinder head bolts & nuts? >Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 00:07:26 -0000 > >--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Bogdan Swider" >wrote: > > > > Hi, > > > > > > During routine maintenance, is it common practice to loosen and >then > > > retorque the cylinder head nuts and bolts (per the service >manual)? > >The owners' manuals for airhead BMWs recommends the same head >torquing service every 4,000 miles, which of course is not >necessary. But it creates lots of work for mechanics, as constant >retorquing of head bolts by unskilled backyard mechanics eventually >pulls the studs out of the case, effectively ruining the motor. >Though I suspect the Kaw's motor doesn't give up its studs quite so >easily, it's probably best to leave this job to a qualified mechanic. > >Bill >"if it ain't broke, we'll fix it till it is" > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ >courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

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[L L]

Sorry about my last post,thought you guys were talking about valve cover bolts. damn im stupid sometimes.

>From: david gay >To: jarvisd@..., KLR650 group DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> >Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Retorque cylinder head bolts & nuts? >Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 18:45:40 -0800 (PST) > > >I was taught to check the torque on the head bolts before checking valve >clearances. I don't loosen them I just torque to specs. > >Dave A12 > > > Devon Jarvis wrote:I say if it isn't leaking, don't >touch them. > >Devon >A15 > >Bogdan Swider wrote: > > > > > > > > > > >>Hi, > >> > >>During routine maintenance, is it common practice to loosen and then > >>retorque the cylinder head nuts and bolts (per the service manual)? > >>On my previous (non-KLR) bikes, I never touched the cylinder head > >>bolts/nuts unless the cylinder head was removed for top end work. > >> > >>Thanks, > >>Don > >> > >> > >> > >Nobody I know does that though with Kawasaki quality control being what >it > >is it might not be a bad idea during the first valve inspection. > > > >Bogdan > > > > > > > > > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ >courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > >Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ >courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ >courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

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[Dan Pauley]

The KLR is just about perfect for your desires. I'd highly recommend it for such a jaunt. Only possible other bike might be the Vstrom Suzuki. First, git yur license and get a motorcycle class under your belt. Take the MSR basic class (MRC/RSS) then get a motorcycle afterward. They supply the bike and have a lesson specifically about different bikes and what their purpose might include. Important note here. Do NOT get the bike first. Get the class first. Better to be chomping at the bit after the class without a bike than chomping on a feeding tube because you made just one mistake. Ah, the link is ..... krap, i'm off line at the houston airport so you have to search for: motorcycle safety foundation or call (I'm doing this from memory so cut me some slack) 1-800-847-4700 (I think) What state you live in? Most states offer some kind of motorcycle training. Then git you a KLR. Depends on how handy you are with tools and how serious you want to tinker with it. Often a New bike will be better than a used bike. I like to dink with it so spend about $3K on a good used then $3K dink'n with it to think I saved money when a brand spank'n new one only cost $5K As for the Alcan highway, that should be a no brainer on the KLR. Good bike for such a trip. Take your time, enjoy yourself. If you have not already done so, read the FAQ section of the group. www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html You are only going to be mad at yourself for not doing this several years ago. Dan / \