new member/alaska trip

[jeffreyrdavis]

I am rebuilding my totalled KLR 650 and while the forks were being rebuilt, had progressive springs installed. I don't think the air pressure is right however as the forks feel a bit spongy. What is a good starting point for fork air pressure. Thanks Jeff

[dooden]

Actually the forks have bleeder valves to let air out, not in. However, the dealer I bought my bike at, the mech put 10 psi in each fork and told me so, it did stiffen them. Worse case, some day with air in the forks, you catch some air and upon return to earth, a seal goes OUCH and pops I suppose. Little decals on the back of each fork say something too. Might just try a bit heavier oil in the forks also, not sure what the Progressive springs recommend, but seem to have read 7.5 ~ 10 w oil is close with them springs. I will try 15w on the OEMs when I change it one of these days. Dooden --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "jeffreyrdavis" wrote:

> I am rebuilding my totalled KLR 650 and while the forks were being > rebuilt, had progressive springs installed. I don't think the air > pressure is right however as the forks feel a bit spongy. What is

a

> good starting point for fork air pressure. Thanks Jeff

[kdxkawboy@aol.com]

In the late 80s many of the manufacturers played around with using air pressure to alter dampening. The effect of the air pressure is the same as adding more oil to the forks - it only comes into play during the lsat 15-10% of fork travel. Given the new 'toy' we all went about playing with air pressure to fine tune our suspension only to discover the forks always seemed to work best with 0 pounds of pressure. We discovered that changing the height of the oil did a better job of tuning than did the air pressure. Suddenly the air valves that were added to put in air were being used to make sure all the built up air pressure was released. These days, the only bikes I know of still using air pressure are all full dressers and they used the air pressure as an overload spring. Recommendation - use 0 pressure and occasional use the valves to release any built up pressure. Pat G'ville, NV In a message dated 2003-04-02 8:48:08 PM Pacific Standard Time, jeffreyrdavis@... writes:

> I am rebuilding my totalled KLR 650 and while the forks were being > rebuilt, had progressive springs installed. I don't think the air > pressure is right however as the forks feel a bit spongy. What is a > good starting point for fork air pressure. Thanks Jeff >

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[Rick Kubik]

Zero. the manual recommends zero, i.e. atmospheric. The valves are just there to periodically let out any pressure buildup. Which should be done with all weight off the fork to allow the right pressure to build up at operating sag. If the forks feel spongy, try changing the oil. It does get contaminated (i.e. black) over time with water and aluminum scrapings, and a 15 minute oil change makes the fork feel better. Take out the little screw, pump the forks until all the oil is out. Use a big pan, it really shoots out when you compress the forks! Dump in 355 ml of new oil. Try different weights, see which you like, fork oil is pretty inexpensive tuning. Also try making longer preload spacers out of PVC pipe - costs only a couple of bucks for an 8 foot length. Also buy a plumber's pipe cutter for another couple of bucks so the cuts are clean and square, and be sure to remove any shavings so they don't plug up the fork. Try 1/4 inch longer increments, see which you like best, I find 3/4 inch longer works well for my 210 lb weight and way of riding. Rick Kubik Calgary, A14 _____________________________________________________________ Get 25MB, POP3, Spam Filtering with LYCOS MAIL PLUS for $19.95/year. http://login.mail.lycos.com/brandPage.shtml?pageId=plus&ref=lmtplus

[Harry Thames]

A showroom stock KLR will easily make the trip. Add a little crash protection, new springs, a tool kit, and the bike is ready. How's your health? Get into shape. Travel light, stay in motels. Have a great time. Harry SC