klr 250 engine and tranny $225!!!

[dooden]

Well folks got a simple question for ya'll. Winter setting in and need to dump the oil, going to change it, but wonder do you change oil again in the spring after it has sat all winter ? Thinking using the Shell Delvac since Wallyworld sells it fairly cheap, just need to pickup a couple filters and ready to rumble. Local shop wants in excess of $20 a gallon for KawChem stuff... thats a bit too much for me. Thanks in advance Dooden

[Happy Rider]

> Winter setting in and need to dump the oil, going to change it, but > wonder do you change oil again in the spring after it has sat all > winter ?

I just winterized my '69 Rickman Triumph yesterday -- the first of the 26 motorcycles I've owned that I've ever winterized since I ride all winter. Do a search on "winterizing motorcycles" and you will find plenty of ideas. All say to change to oil and filter. I didn't, but only had maybe 150 miles on the oil anyway. I will change the oil in the spring. I have a fiberglass tank and heated garage so I drained the tank and float bowl, not worrying about condensation. If I was storing in an unheated area with a metal tank, I would have filled the tank and added Sta-bil. I pulled the spark plugs and put a couple tablespoons of oil in each cylinder, then turned the crank by hand a few revolutions. FWIW: The gasoline in the tank was several months old and had Sta-bil added according to instructions on the bottle. The old Triumph engine, with choke removed as was the practice in those days, started on the 2nd kick, after "tickling" the Amal, idled immediately and ran without missing a beat. Sta-bil works. I won't winterize my KLR or Buell. I will ride those this winter. BTW: the Rickman Triumph is my candidate for a cool bike. http://www.angelfire.com/jazz/verlenelson/RickmanTriumph/ Please note that it is also what we now call a "dual sport." Verle Nelson Cedaredege, Colorado

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Thu, Nov 07, 2002 at 01:19:43PM -0000, dooden wrote:

> > Thinking using the Shell Delvac since Wallyworld sells it fairly > cheap, just need to pickup a couple filters and ready to rumble.

Mobil makes Delvac, Shell makes Rotella (and the equivalent Chevron product is Delo -- you can find one of these three at most any truck stop or at WalMart). On a recent trip to our local WalMart/Sam's Club (they're right next to each other, of course), I discovered: Sam's Club had Rotella T in cases of 6 gallons for $33. They had no other heavy-duty oils. They did have Pennzoil 10W/40 -- non EC, suitable for a bike -- in quarts for a bit under $2. WalMart had Rotella T for $5.85/gallon, Delvac 400 for about the same price, Delo 400 for about the same price. They also had Pennzoil Heavy Duty in *5-gallon* containers for some insanely low price, $16 or something like that. The Pennzoil stuff had all the usual HD oil certifications except the new Caterpillar one, which is the toughest; so maybe it's not quite as good as the Shell/Mobil/Chevron products but it's probably still a good choice for a bike. On the other hand, what are you going to do with 5 gallons, change the oil in all your friends' bikes too? The other thing they had, which I ended up buying, was Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 on sale for $13/gallon. This is a non-EC oil and Shell says it's fine for use with wet clutches; plus I can run it in both the car and the bike and it gets _cold_ here in the winter; I want a 5W oil for the car, which goes Way Up North at times, and I don't really love the idea of having a 15W oil in the bike either. At a bit over $3/qt, it's a hell of a deal over a full-synthetic bike oil!

> Local shop wants in excess of $20 a gallon for KawChem stuff... thats > a bit too much for me.

Heh, yeah. Hit WalMart -- not Sam's -- and you'll find they have quite a selection of what you need, instead of what the bike dealer wants to sell you. -- Thor Lancelot Simon tls@... But as he knew no bad language, he had called him all the names of common objects that he could think of, and had screamed: "You lamp! You towel! You plate!" and so on. --Sigmund Freud

[RM]

On Thu, 7 Nov 2002, dooden wrote:

>Winter setting in and need to dump the oil, going to change it, but >wonder do you change oil again in the spring after it has sat all winter?

I wouldn't bother. If the bike is just sitting there with new oil in it, it'll still be new oil come next spring. Ya gotta run the engine if you want to actually dirty it. RM

[Fred Hink]

----- Original Message ----- From: "Happy Rider" To: "DSN_klr650@yahoogroups" DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 7:28 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Oil and the KLR - Just a simple question > > Winter setting in and need to dump the oil, going to change it, but > > wonder do you change oil again in the spring after it has sat all > > winter ? The service manuals will tell you to change your oil before storage and after you take your bike out of storage. But service manuals tell you lots of things that I don't agree with completely. I think since your oil is fairly fresh already, I would leave it till spring and see if it turns colors (milky) when you start it again. > > I won't winterize my KLR or Buell. I will ride those this winter. "ride" is an understatement!! > > BTW: the Rickman Triumph is my candidate for a cool bike. > http://www.angelfire.com/jazz/verlenelson/RickmanTriumph/ > Please note that it is also what we now call a "dual sport." > > Verle Nelson > Cedaredege, Colorado Yes! VERY COOL BIKE! When are you going to let me take "The Rickman" for a spin around the White Rim? ps. Speaking of the White Rim, the road down Schafer Canyon that was closed earlier from a flood is open to motorcycles and mountain bikes. You will have to drive around the "Road Closed" barriers to get down this trail. The White Rim trail has had some maintenance done but when Verle and I did this ride the other day there were some pretty wet (muddy) spots on the Green River side that was chewed up pretty badly. Long's Canyon and Pucker Pass are washed out pretty badly too but passable. Ride Happy INDEED! Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com http://www.canyonlandsmotorclassic.com

[Bogdan Swider]

> I have a fiberglass > tank and heated garage so I drained the tank and float bowl, not > worrying > about condensation. If I was storing in an unheated area with a metal > tank, >

Why ? What's the difference ? Bogdan

[Tengai650]

At 9:32 AM -0500 11/7/2002, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote:

>> Thinking using the Shell Delvac since Wallyworld sells it fairly >> cheap, just need to pickup a couple filters and ready to rumble. > >Mobil makes Delvac, Shell makes Rotella (and the equivalent Chevron >product is Delo -- you can find one of these three at most any truck >stop or at WalMart).

I used run these in my KLR on occasion, but a friend who is a KLX650c rider and diesel engine designer recommends against diesel oils in gasoline engines. He uses Castrol car oil in his KLX. I switched to Havoline 20W-50 or Chevron 10W-40 car oils. They're the least expensive name-brand oils at my local Walmart. Mark B2 A2 A3

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Thu, Nov 07, 2002 at 11:38:10AM -0500, Tengai650 wrote:

> At 9:32 AM -0500 11/7/2002, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote: > >> Thinking using the Shell Delvac since Wallyworld sells it fairly > >> cheap, just need to pickup a couple filters and ready to rumble. > > > >Mobil makes Delvac, Shell makes Rotella (and the equivalent Chevron > >product is Delo -- you can find one of these three at most any truck > >stop or at WalMart). > > I used run these in my KLR on occasion, but a friend who is a KLX650c > rider and diesel engine designer recommends against diesel oils in > gasoline engines.

Did he give any specific reason why? Several empirical studies on oil performance in motorcycles have given Rotella T top marks among dino juice oils, and I've had a number of conversations with lubricant-industry folks which have all basically boiled down to "Please don't tell my employer I said this, but the truck oils work fine in cars, bikes, or anything else you'd care to put them in, and they're cheap and last forever too." The higher amounts of zinc and a few other additives might mean that if you have a catalytic converter and you're burning a lot of oil, truck oils wouldn't be great for your exhaust system -- but the KLR, thank goodness, has no cat. I'm very curious why your friend thinks it's bad to run truck oil in gasoline engines. If he didn't give you any detailed reasons, would you mind asking him? -- Thor Lancelot Simon tls@... But as he knew no bad language, he had called him all the names of common objects that he could think of, and had screamed: "You lamp! You towel! You plate!" and so on. --Sigmund Freud

[Matthew]

I plan on trying the blended oil..1040 synth and natural blend.. bad idea? I think its castrol...

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Thor Lancelot Simon wrote: > On Thu, Nov 07, 2002 at 11:38:10AM -0500, Tengai650 wrote: > > At 9:32 AM -0500 11/7/2002, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote: > > >> Thinking using the Shell Delvac since Wallyworld sells it fairly > > >> cheap, just need to pickup a couple filters and ready to rumble. >

[RM]

On Thu, 7 Nov 2002, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote:

>>I used run these in my KLR on occasion, but a friend who is a KLX650c >>rider and diesel engine designer recommends against diesel oils in >>gasoline engines. >Did he give any specific reason why?

There a those who advise against using HDMO's in gas engines due to their specialized additive package contributing to increased combustion chamber deposits. I don't really think that it's a problem. There's no way these universal oils (like Rotella T and Delvac 1300 Super) would pass the API SL test sequences if they were really all that bad. RM