klr steering stabilizer nklr

[iom12000]

It seems that the original choke cable on my '98 has stretched or is damaged in a way that is preventing it moving whatever it has to move inside the carb. I've located a replacement cable and the question is - does anyone know the procedure for fitting it? Particularly at the carb end. Tony K Uk

[Mark St.Hilaire, Sr]

> It seems that the original choke cable on my '98 has stretched or is > damaged in a way that is preventing it moving whatever it has to move > inside the carb. I've located a replacement cable and the question > is - does anyone know the procedure for fitting it? Particularly at > the carb end.

Hey Tony, it's a pain to do, but isn't particularly "technical." I would thread the new cable alongside the old one to be sure you get the threading route correct. If the old cable is already gone, just be sure to avoid sharp bends, abrupt turns, etc. I'd give the new cable a shot of lubricant before installing it - I use Tri-Flow, but there are a number of things that will do the job. At the carb there is a rubber protective cap thing that must be pulled back to expose the nut that holds the cable in place. This is plastic, but there isn't much of an issue removing it - just don't overdo it when tightening the new one. I used an open-end wrench, 12mm I think, and just unscrewed that holding nut at the carb. (remember, Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey!) (Grin) Then just loosen the lock wheel at the clutch lever, back off the adjustment, and work the cable end "barrel" out of it's hole. Now, it's pretty much the same thing in reverse. You'll clearly see how the cable end goes into the carb, be careful about tightening that holding nut. Slip the rubber boot back into place. Connect the cable at the clutch lever, and adjust until you get the correct release. I think that's about it, Mark Glitter is coined to meet the moment's rage; Genuine lives on from age to age. - Goethe's "Faust" KLR650 Motorcycle Pages: http://klr6500.tripod.com/ HomePage: http://home.adelphia.net/~msaint/index.html My Adelphia Email can be "iffy." If you don't get a response, please try: KLR6500@...

[iom12000]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Mark St.Hilaire, Sr" wrote: Thanks Mark - is removing the tank fairly straightforward? Tony K UK > Hey Tony, it's a pain to do, but isn't particularly "technical." > > I would thread the new cable alongside the old one to be sure you get the > threading route correct. If the old cable is already gone, just be sure to > avoid sharp bends, abrupt turns, etc. > > I'd give the new cable a shot of lubricant before installing it - I use > Tri-Flow, but there are a number of things that will do the job. > > At the carb there is a rubber protective cap thing that must be pulled back > to expose the nut that holds the cable in place. This is plastic, but there > isn't much of an issue removing it - just don't overdo it when tightening > the new one. > > I used an open-end wrench, 12mm I think, and just unscrewed that holding nut > at the carb. (remember, Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey!) (Grin) Then just > loosen the lock wheel at the clutch lever, back off the adjustment, and work > the cable end "barrel" out of it's hole. > > Now, it's pretty much the same thing in reverse. You'll clearly see how the > cable end goes into the carb, be careful about tightening that holding nut. > Slip the rubber boot back into place. > > Connect the cable at the clutch lever, and adjust until you get the correct > release. > > I think that's about it, > > Mark > > > Glitter is coined to meet the moment's rage; > Genuine lives on from age to age. > - Goethe's "Faust" > > > KLR650 Motorcycle Pages: > http://klr6500.tripod.com/ > > HomePage: > http://home.adelphia.net/~msaint/index.html > > My Adelphia Email can be "iffy." If > you don't get a response, please try: > KLR6500@h...

[Mark St.Hilaire, Sr]

> Thanks Mark - is removing the tank fairly straightforward?

Yes it is. This comes from the initial steps of my valve adjustment procedure at: http://klr6500.tripod.com/valves.htm 01. Turn the fuel petcock to OFF. 02 Remove both side covers - 2 philips head screws each cover. 03. Remove the saddle hold-down bolts - 1 bolt on each side. There is a plastic "U" prong on the bottom front of the saddle that slips under a bracket, lift the saddle back up and pull the whole thing back to remove. 04. Remove the right radiator shroud - 2 bolts at radiator, 1 philips head screw at the top. 05. Remove the left radiator shroud - 2 philips head bolts backed by nuts at the shroud, 1 philips head screw at the top. 06. Remove the vent hose from the back of the gas tank. 07. There are 2 hoses to remove at the fuel valve/petcock: the gas hose, from which gas will come out, and a smaller vacuum hose up a little and behind it. 08. Remove the 2 mounting bolts holding the back of the gas tank to the frame. There are 2 sideways "U's" on the underside of the gas tank that hold it on 2 frame mounted studs. Lift the back of the tank slightly up and pull toward the back of the bike. A full tank of gas weighs about 35 pounds, be prepared to hold the weight. That should do it for you... Mark Glitter is coined to meet the moment's rage; Genuine lives on from age to age. - Goethe's "Faust" KLR650 Motorcycle Pages: http://klr6500.tripod.com/ HomePage: http://home.adelphia.net/~msaint/index.html My Adelphia Email can be "iffy." If you don't get a response, please try: KLR6500@...

[Tengai650]

At 11:49 AM -0400 10/22/2002, Zachariah Mully wrote:

>On Tue, 2002-10-22 at 11:13, motomania80504 wrote: >> I'm thinking about installing a steering stabilizer such as Scott's. > >Don't forget WER dampeners. Although not adjustable on the fly like >Scotts, they're cheaper

So is the damper from my storm door...LOL Mark B2 A2 A3