gripster mileage ?

[btl6847]

Hey Y'all, I read a few days ago a post about adjusting the chain on the KLR. Really made good sense to make sure that the chain doesn't bind through the whole movement of the swingarm. The lister who said that he took the lower bolt out of the shock to let the suspension go through the whole movement is on to something, but I tried this maneuver with great sucess; I took two rachet tie down straps that I use to secure my bikes to the trailer, and put the hooks on the luggage rack grab handles, and down to the swingarm. Pulled it all tight until the swingarm was straight with the chain (axle farthest away from the countershaft) and adjusted the chain just a tad loose there, maybe 10mm of movement. Then I just let the straps loose, and then record the measurement with the bike at rest during the regular adjustments, and presto!, I have my new measurement for chain slack to go by. Way easier than taking suspension parts out, and it only takes about 2 minutes to set up. Never guess again if the chain will get too tight through the travel of the rear swingarm. Critique if you must.... Brian A12

[btl6847]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "btl6847" wrote:

> Hey Y'all, > I read a few days ago a post about adjusting the chain on the

KLR.

> Really made good sense to make sure that the chain doesn't bind > through the whole movement of the swingarm. The lister who said

that

> he took the lower bolt out of the shock to let the suspension go > through the whole movement is on to something, but I tried this > maneuver with great sucess; I took two rachet tie down straps that

I

> use to secure my bikes to the trailer, and put the hooks on the > luggage rack grab handles, and down to the swingarm. Pulled it all > tight until the swingarm was straight with the chain (axle farthest > away from the countershaft) and adjusted the chain just a tad loose > there, maybe 10mm of movement. Then I just let the straps loose,

and

> then record the measurement with the bike at rest during the

regular

> adjustments, and presto!, I have my new measurement for chain slack > to go by. Way easier than taking suspension parts out, and it only > takes about 2 minutes to set up. Never guess again if the chain

will

> get too tight through the travel of the rear swingarm. Critique if > you must.... > > Brian > A12

Brad asked me to post the final measurement of the chain. Going by the manual for checking chain slack, it has 63mm from the tightest spot in the chain. This is guaranteed to not bind MY CHAIN. I run a 14-43 with 106 links, DID x-ring chain. This is on the loose side by 3mm. Kawasaki specs 50-60mm. Sooooo, it's just a hair loose, but better in my opinion. If someone wants to try it out, and you don't have rachet straps, but just the regular cam lock ones, get someone to help push the rear suspension down while you tighten the straps. If I would have the chain in the minimum adjustment per KHI recommendations, I feel it would be too tight at the point of travel where the chain gets to be it's shortest. Works for me, might/might not work for others... Brian A12

[btl6847]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "btl6847" wrote:

> --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "btl6847" wrote: > > Hey Y'all, > > I read a few days ago a post about adjusting the chain on the > KLR. > > Really made good sense to make sure that the chain doesn't bind > > through the whole movement of the swingarm. The lister who said > that > > he took the lower bolt out of the shock to let the suspension go > > through the whole movement is on to something, but I tried this > > maneuver with great sucess; I took two rachet tie down straps

that

> I > > use to secure my bikes to the trailer, and put the hooks on the > > luggage rack grab handles, and down to the swingarm. Pulled it

all

> > tight until the swingarm was straight with the chain (axle

farthest

> > away from the countershaft) and adjusted the chain just a tad

loose

> > there, maybe 10mm of movement. Then I just let the straps loose, > and > > then record the measurement with the bike at rest during the > regular > > adjustments, and presto!, I have my new measurement for chain

slack

> > to go by. Way easier than taking suspension parts out, and it

only

> > takes about 2 minutes to set up. Never guess again if the chain > will > > get too tight through the travel of the rear swingarm. Critique

if

> > you must.... > > > > Brian > > A12 > > Brad asked me to post the final measurement of the chain. Going by > the manual for checking chain slack, it has 63mm from the tightest > spot in the chain. This is guaranteed to not bind MY CHAIN. I run a > 14-43 with 106 links, DID x-ring chain. This is on the loose side

by

> 3mm. Kawasaki specs 50-60mm. Sooooo, it's just a hair loose, but > better in my opinion. If someone wants to try it out, and you don't > have rachet straps, but just the regular cam lock ones, get someone > to help push the rear suspension down while you tighten the straps. > If I would have the chain in the minimum adjustment per KHI > recommendations, I feel it would be too tight at the point of

travel

> where the chain gets to be it's shortest. Works for me, might/might > not work for others... > > Brian > A12

And one more thing...I am on standard factory links for the suspension. No lowering links. Jeez...I am getting old and forgetful...

[RM]

On Mon, 20 May 2002, ryanwow2000 wrote:

>A12 up to Alaska. Been thinking TW42, but recently found a rear gripster >at a local shop and I'm curious to try it out. Anyone know the avg. >mileage I might expect out of a rear gripster? I've already checked the >archives here and on the DSN list, no luck.

Keep it well inflated and it'll go bald in the center around 8k. Maybe less if you're loaded down. On the other hand, I've heard that 10k is possible. RM