anybody else hate the looks of the stock fairing?

[bkowalca]

Offroad Riding Tips It is important to maximize the positive aspects (huge torque) of the KLR and minimize the negative (huge weight) 1) Ride fast - Keep a good pace through the rough stuff. The 1980's suspension is good enough for this. I think the stock front sprocket is actually a benefit since the tall gearing forces you to move along quickly. This allows the momentum of the machine to plough through or over just about anything. 2) Get Fit - When the going gets rough you will be holding on pretty tight and pushing pretty hard to get the bike to do what you want. Good physical fitness is the key to a good ride. Practice your squats, you'll need it to pick up the beast after you drop it. 3) Riding in Mud/Water - Keep your weight centered or back and keep on the gas. The bike has enough power that it will not stall in the mud. If you are riding through ruts, don't even bother to ride down the high spot in the middle of the track. You are going to end up in the deepest rut anyway so might head for it straight away. If you ride the top and the front or back slide into the rut (it always will) you are in a tough situation being sidways on the track, you can easily get stuck or fall over. 4) Riding in Sand - Keep your wieght forward, keep on the gas. As soon as you let off the gas you can feel the bike start to shimy around. If you stay on the power, the bike will go in the direction of the front wheel. 5) Riding up hills - The bike has enough torque to climb any hill from a dead stop. Keep the revs above 2000 and you can climb anything. Its fun to practice going as SLOW as you can up a hill. On the way up keep you weight centered to keep the front down, and the back planted for traction. On the way down, keep your weight way back to keep the front from digging in. 6) Over Logs - Always cross at a right angle to the log. Although it may be possible to use the clutch to pop the front end up, I haven't been able to do it practically so just hit it dead on a hope for the best. Don't even try to use the throttle to get the front end up. The combination of heavy front end, lack of CV carb throttle response and high flywheel intertia make this next to impossible. 6) Practice - Find an area with some tough terrain and practice doing different things, up hills, down hills, over logs, navigating ruts etc. You will be suprised how quickly you will learn to overcome things that seemed impossible an hour ago. 7) Fall on the right side or get a rad guard - If you fall on the left, you risk damage to the expensive radiator and a long walk home. The right side is just a plastic coolant expansion tank that already is surrounded by metal tubing. 8) Consider upgrades - Front Progressive springs are a great deal. Knobby tires certainly help off-road. A stainless braided brake line greaty helps with the front brake feel and responsiveness. A rear spring/shock upgrade can be expensive but some say this is the best upgrade. A rad guard and skid plate are good investments. Bryan K A14

[guymanbro]

OK I got a coupla nitpicks with your pointers (but different strokes for different folks, right?) See below

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "bkowalca" wrote: > > > 2) Get Fit - When the going gets rough you will be holding on pretty tight and pushing pretty hard to get the bike to do what you want. > Shouldn't ever be holding on tight in my experience. A loose hold on the bars keeps your nervous energy from being transmitted into disatrous response from the bike. Stay loose! > Good physical fitness is the key to a good ride. Practice your > squats, you'll need it to pick up the beast after you drop it. Fully agree with that. > > 4) Riding in Sand - Keep your wieght forward, keep on the gas. As > soon as you let off the gas you can feel the bike start to shimy > around. If you stay on the power, the bike will go in the direction > of the front wheel.> Huh? The KLR is pretty well endowed up front. I find that keeping my weight BACK not forward helps with the KLR. Now when cornering in the sand, definitely move your weight more forward, but for straight lining it, keeping the weight back keeps the front end light and les prone to getting twitchy with variations in the sand surface. > 6) Over Logs - Always cross at a right angle to the log. Although it may be possible to use the clutch to pop the front end up, I haven't been able to do it practically so just hit it dead on a hope for the best. Don't even try to use the throttle to get the front end up. The combination of heavy front end, lack of CV carb throttle > response and high flywheel intertia make this next to impossible. I find a blip of the throttle before hitting the log gets the front end light enough to bounce it up and over the log. Then with proper weight shifting (timing is everything) you can roll the back end over as well. I have done this over logs that are taller than the mighty KLR's 9" ground clearance without putting a foot down (sometimes my face gets put down though!). I agree with everything else you said though. dat brooklyn bum

[Ian S.]

Your advice is great in my opinion excpet two things. *When in sand, I find it beneficial to keep weight far BACK, except when cornering. (guymanbro also thinks this is better) *Keep a somewhat loose grip on the bars, except when heading over large rocks or ruts. Exerting a lot of energy gripping the bars is a waste. (again, guymanbro made this point) *Oh, and being in shape isnt a big factor in my opinion. Enjoy those big macs! I only say this because im not in shape. and i wish i was. ** Enjoy and utilize the big power of the 650, thats the only thing the bikes got in the dirt over the 400's and 250's. Ian A7 -----Original Message----- From: guymanbro [mailto:guymanbro@...] Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2002 6:55 PM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] Off-Road Riding on a KLR - was Re: NKLR Off road riding tips OK I got a coupla nitpicks with your pointers (but different strokes for different folks, right?) See below

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "bkowalca" wrote: > > > 2) Get Fit - When the going gets rough you will be holding on pretty tight and pushing pretty hard to get the bike to do what you want. > Shouldn't ever be holding on tight in my experience. A loose hold on the bars keeps your nervous energy from being transmitted into disatrous response from the bike. Stay loose! > Good physical fitness is the key to a good ride. Practice your > squats, you'll need it to pick up the beast after you drop it. Fully agree with that. > > 4) Riding in Sand - Keep your wieght forward, keep on the gas. As > soon as you let off the gas you can feel the bike start to shimy > around. If you stay on the power, the bike will go in the direction > of the front wheel.> Huh? The KLR is pretty well endowed up front. I find that keeping my weight BACK not forward helps with the KLR. Now when cornering in the sand, definitely move your weight more forward, but for straight lining it, keeping the weight back keeps the front end light and les prone to getting twitchy with variations in the sand surface. > 6) Over Logs - Always cross at a right angle to the log. Although it may be possible to use the clutch to pop the front end up, I haven't been able to do it practically so just hit it dead on a hope for the best. Don't even try to use the throttle to get the front end up. The combination of heavy front end, lack of CV carb throttle > response and high flywheel intertia make this next to impossible. I find a blip of the throttle before hitting the log gets the front end light enough to bounce it up and over the log. Then with proper weight shifting (timing is everything) you can roll the back end over as well. I have done this over logs that are taller than the mighty KLR's 9" ground clearance without putting a foot down (sometimes my face gets put down though!). I agree with everything else you said though. dat brooklyn bum Checkout Dual Sport News at http://www.dualsportnews.com Be part of the Adventure! Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[bkowalca]

I agree with keeping loose on the bars but after your 100th whoop, you need some strength in your upper body just to be able to hang on. Another example, I was going down a large hill slowly with maximum rear brake and alot of front brake, it took a suprisingly amount of force to keep the bars straight and your wieght back on the seat. It's funny about the sand, I had exactly the opposite experience you guys had. Last weekend was my first expereince in deep sand. We where going fast down some abandoned rail lines which had some heavy sand sections. The first couple sections I hit scared the crap outa me. I had my weight back, let off the gas to take it easy, the bike was sliding everywhere (I was probably in third gear). As soon as I sat up on the tank and kept on the gas the bike tracked straight. There was a few sections like this so I had several chances to test this theory. I'm sure I would have been in the trees if I kept my weight back, which is usually the natural reaction to encountering a rough spot. I seem to recall my old RM250 behaved the same way, where ever you pointed the front wheel the bike would go, while the back is sliding everywhere. I think this is the only thing these two bikes have in common, which seemed to be the root of my frustration for riding off- road on the mighty KLR. I had to relearn everything since the riding style is completely different than a smaller dirtbike.

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "guymanbro" wrote: > OK I got a coupla nitpicks with your pointers (but different strokes > for different folks, right?) See below > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "bkowalca" wrote: > > > > > > 2) Get Fit - When the going gets rough you will be holding on > pretty tight and pushing pretty hard to get the bike to do what you > want. > > > Shouldn't ever be holding on tight in my experience. A loose hold on > the bars keeps your nervous energy from being transmitted into > disatrous response from the bike. Stay loose! > > > Good physical fitness is the key to a good ride. Practice your > > squats, you'll need it to pick up the beast after you drop it. > > Fully agree with that. > > > > > 4) Riding in Sand - Keep your wieght forward, keep on the gas. As > > soon as you let off the gas you can feel the bike start to shimy > > around. If you stay on the power, the bike will go in the direction > > of the front wheel.> > > Huh? The KLR is pretty well endowed up front. I find that keeping my > weight BACK not forward helps with the KLR. Now when cornering in the > sand, definitely move your weight more forward, but for straight > lining it, keeping the weight back keeps the front end light and les > prone to getting twitchy with variations in the sand surface. > > > 6) Over Logs - Always cross at a right angle to the log. Although > it may be possible to use the clutch to pop the front end up, I > haven't been able to do it practically so just hit it dead on a hope > for the best. Don't even try to use the throttle to get the front > end up. The combination of heavy front end, lack of CV carb throttle > > response and high flywheel intertia make this next to impossible. > > > I find a blip of the throttle before hitting the log gets the front > end light enough to bounce it up and over the log. Then with proper > weight shifting (timing is everything) you can roll the back end over > as well. I have done this over logs that are taller than the mighty > KLR's 9" ground clearance without putting a foot down (sometimes my > face gets put down though!). > > I agree with everything else you said though. > > dat brooklyn bum

[guymanbro]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "bkowalca" wrote:

> I agree with keeping loose on the bars but after your 100th whoop, > you need some strength

Strength is good, just don't force things is all I mean.

> > It's funny about the sand, I had exactly the opposite experience you > guys had. Last weekend was my first expereince in deep sand. We > where going fast down some abandoned rail lines which had some heavy > sand sections. The first couple sections I hit scared the crap outa > me. I had my weight back, let off the gas to take it easy, the bike > was sliding everywhere (I was probably in third gear). As soon as I > sat up on the tank and kept on the gas the bike tracked straight.

Yup that's the difference. Just like water or deep mud, you gotta stay on the gas while the weight is back . If you're braking or cornering, then shift the wweight forward so the front wheel will guide you. See, we are all in agreement. :^) What were the chances of that? dat brooklyn bum

[ridecaptan]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Ian S." wrote:

>> ** Enjoy and utilize the big power of the 650, thats the only

thing the

> bikes got in the dirt over the 400's and 250's.

Your right Ian, the torque does come in handy. I'm still learning as I have only been back into dirt riding after a long absence from it. I got into some deep mud the day before, and it made things interesting with the Trailwings. Ed A15

> > Ian A7 >

docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[alaska_rider]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Walter Lesnowich" wrote:

> > I replied to this earlier but it must not have gone through. The > > weight reduction is something I didn't think about and that would

be

> > a nice benefit of removing it. I checked buykawasaki.com for a

parts

> > daigram of the headlight/numberplate that comes on the Canadian

KLR

> > 650C but I didn't have any luck. I wonder if the KLX 650 one

would

> > work? I don't know what kind of guages it came with? Maybe the

same

> > as the KLR? > > > > Maybe you could post some pictures when you get your bike set up

with

> > the aftermarket guage cluster? > > > > A while back while looking at pictures of the USMC KLR650 > it appeared to use the fairing from the KLR250. Then checking > out www.buykawasaki.com parts diagrams I found the headlight > and most of it's brackets to be in common between the 650 and > 250. So if you like the 250 fairing it may be an easy swap with > stock parts. > > Walt > A14 "War Horse"

Thanks Walt, I'm going to check into doing that. The nice thing is that the colors would match and it would look factory. This site is awesome! Scott