lowering the bike.

[rhefferan]

Anybody, everbody please respond! We got a small tear in the main carb diaphram which we would like to repair if possible right away. Can't wait for a new one to be ordered as Bogdan was supposed to have left on a trip down south. We need to know what kind of rubber repair chemical has worked for this type of thin rubber diaphram. Any help or suggestions are welcome. Rex (for Bogdan)

[Zachariah Mully]

Go to your local Hardley-Abelson dealer, get a new slide/diaphram for the CVK40 (I forget what the HD part no. is, check the archives, I've posted it before). Then peel off the diaphram from the slide and transplant it on to the KLR slide. I haven't done this but a KLX'er/KLR'er, David Kelly, I think, has. The HD slide is slightly different I believe, so a direct transplant isn't possbile. I think the part runs about $40. Z DC

On Mon, 2002-04-29 at 12:39, rhefferan wrote: > Anybody, everbody please respond! > > We got a small tear in the main carb diaphram which we would like to > repair if possible right away. Can't wait for a new one to be ordered > as Bogdan was supposed to have left on a trip down south. We need to > know what kind of rubber repair chemical has worked for this type of > thin rubber diaphram. Any help or suggestions are welcome. > > Rex (for Bogdan) >

[rhefferan]

Thanks Zack, We deciced on spray on rubber coating from Plasti-dip. There is a web page that says it works well. We sprayed some in the cap and used a toothpick to apply it where needed. we'll see. http://www.rctvonline.net/xs11/carbdiaphragmrepair.HTML Rex

[John Lyon]

Marshall did this for his KLX when his diaphram failed. He went to a small independent Harley shop here in New Orleans and they found a direct replacement. I think Marshall said it was off a used carb and it cost him under $10. YMMV, John --- Zachariah Mully wrote:

> Go to your local Hardley-Abelson dealer, get a new > slide/diaphram for > the CVK40 (I forget what the HD part no. is, check > the archives, I've > posted it before). Then peel off the diaphram from > the slide and > transplant it on to the KLR slide. I haven't done > this but a > KLX'er/KLR'er, David Kelly, I think, has. The HD > slide is slightly > different I believe, so a direct transplant isn't > possbile. I think the > part runs about $40. > > Z > DC

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[judjonzz]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., John Lyon wrote:

> Marshall did this for his KLX when his diaphram > failed. He went to a small independent Harley shop > here in New Orleans and they found a direct > replacement. I think Marshall said it was off a used > carb and it cost him under $10. > > YMMV, > John > > --- Zachariah Mully wrote: > > Go to your local Hardley-Abelson dealer, get a new > > slide/diaphram for > > the CVK40 (I forget what the HD part no. is, check > > the archives, I've > > posted it before). Then peel off the diaphram from > > the slide and > > transplant it on to the KLR slide. I haven't done > > this but a > > KLX'er/KLR'er, David Kelly, I think, has. The HD > > slide is slightly > > different I believe, so a direct transplant isn't > > possbile. I think the > > part runs about $40. > > > > Z > > DC

I missed the original post, so I don't know if this is on point, but if the problem with your diaphragm is a pinhole or small tear, a repair with RTV silicone rubber can last for years, In a pinch, I have used electrical tape. May not get you from Jo'burg to Capetown, but it will get you from Point A to Point B.

[InWoods13@aol.com]

In a message dated 4/29/02 6:46:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kfali@... writes: << Please advise on if I should lower my bike a few inchs, say two, cause even though i am 5' 11" but sometimes i feel a bit streching my legs to touch the ground. I think it might hurt the suspension which basicly sucks anyway, but need some pros and cons, cause I belive that its just in the begining, i shall over come it in the mean time . what do u guys think? >> The big Pro is lowering your center of gravity. This makes the KLR take on a whole new personality..a more confidence inspiring one. Lowlinks are an inexpensive way to do this, and work well if your shock/spring is relatively new. The New thing is important...while relatively new, the rear tire never ate the inner rear fender...solo in big whoops, or in hairy two-up dualsport rides. Once the shock/spring's worn, with any size lowlink, the tire Will eat your inner fender offroad, with a relative light load. (happened to me the week before last in relatively mild offroad stuff) *Look up Gino's review of the Quality R&D links...the content applies for all link sizes/manufacturers, & pretty much says it all. Cons...even when my shock/spring was new, while riding two up, I grounded a hard part (my 5 stars centerstand) once, & a peg once while cornering on road, using the Quality R&D link. (1.5 inch drop link) After trying out the 1.5 inch drop, the 1 inch drop, & the 3/4...I settled on the 3/4...it's a good compromise as cheap fixes go. Ultimately, the LR 420 series short shock is the best solution for lowering your CG. I've no problems touching the ground with the stock links..mainly after the lower CG for the Much better cornering characteristics...on & off road. All best. -Scott A14 "thunderdog" Sorrento, Fl