klr rr wheel bearings

[zootpatutie]

Pulled the intake cam and found the pin sheared between cam and sprocket. Sprocket hole is seriously ovalled and must be replaced. Pin half is sheared inside the cam flange and will need to be drilled out. Flange hole has some minor elongation next to the sprocket. My current approach is to replace the sprocket, bolt and pin and attempt to reuse the cam ($$). Am thinking that blue loctite on the bolt and red loctite on the pin, and flange to sprocket mating, might help keep it all connected. Todd A9 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[monahanwb@yahoo.com]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "zootpatutie" wrote:

> Am thinking that blue loctite on the bolt and red loctite on the

pin, and flange to sprocket mating, might help keep it all connected. Todd, no offense, but I think the use of adhesive in that situation has about as much chance of succeeding as the CO suggestion about being a Sons of Silence prospect on a KLR. I would be looking at either welding up the elongated holes or drilled out and rebushed (anyone ever had to do this to kingpins? I have, a couple times) or figuring out something else that will last under the stress that a weak spot is going to create, as the chain pulls the cam around at a zillion revolutions per minute.

[Bogdan Swider]

> Pulled the intake cam and found the pin sheared between cam and sprocket. > Sprocket hole is seriously ovalled and must be replaced. Pin half is > sheared inside the cam flange and will need to be drilled out. Flange hole > has some minor elongation next to the sprocket. My current approach is to > replace the sprocket, bolt and pin and attempt to reuse the cam ($$). Am > thinking that blue loctite on the bolt and red loctite on the pin, and > flange to sprocket mating, might help keep it all connected. > Todd > A9 > >

Yours is the first occurrence of this problem I remember being posted. Do you have any idea why it happened ? Bogdan

[Ted Palmer]

Todd (zootpatutie) wrote: [...]

> My current approach is to replace the sprocket, bolt and pin and attempt to reuse the cam ($$).

Sounds ok to me. You could even use the old sprocket if you are hard-up for cash. The only minor problem is figuring at what point the cam and sprocket should be clamped up. Anyway, there is no guarantee that the hole in the sprocket was in exactly the right spot in relation to the arrow, or if the hole in the cam was in exactly the right spot in relation to the cam lobes.

> Am thinking that blue loctite on the bolt and red loctite on the pin, and flange to sprocket mating, might help keep it all connected.

Unless the sprocket mating surface of the camshaft is damaged then you should only need to locktite the bolt threads. No need to loctite the pin. I notice that the manual is not specific about the "locking agent" to use on the threads with regards to medium or high strength. Was the sprocket bolt loose? Was there any remnant of locking agent on the threads? Slotted hole on the sprocket eh? Strooth, I could pay money to have a cam sprocket made adjustable like that. A neater way to make adjustable sprockets would be to put maybe 9 knockpin holes on the camshaft and 10 holes on the sprocket to give a simpler vernier adjust. Maybe I'll get around to it one day. Mister_T Melbourne Australia

[zootpatutie]

> > > > > Pulled the intake cam and found the pin sheared between cam and

sprocket.

> > Sprocket hole is seriously ovalled and must be replaced. Pin half is > > sheared inside the cam flange and will need to be drilled out. Flange

hole

> > has some minor elongation next to the sprocket. My current approach is

to

> > replace the sprocket, bolt and pin and attempt to reuse the cam ($$).

Am

> > thinking that blue loctite on the bolt and red loctite on the pin, and > > flange to sprocket mating, might help keep it all connected. > > Todd > > A9 > > > > > Yours is the first occurrence of this problem I remember being > posted. Do you have any idea why it happened ? > > Bogdan >

No specific reason. I've never had the camshaft out or the sprocket off. The bolt seemed tight. Todd

[zootpatutie]

> Unless the sprocket mating surface of the camshaft is damaged then > you should only need to locktite the bolt threads. > No need to loctite the pin.

Mating surfaces are in good shape only slight impression from the pin at the edge of the camshaft flange hole. Was able to drive the pin remnants out with a center punch and a bent nail.

> > Was the sprocket bolt loose? Was there any remnant of locking agent > on the threads?

Bolt seemed tight. As to evidence of locking agent there is a slight light discoloration to the threads, but it looks more like where they cleaned as they cam out rather than locking agent remnants.

> > Slotted hole on the sprocket eh? Strooth, I could pay money to have > a cam sprocket made adjustable like that. > A neater way to make adjustable sprockets would be to put maybe 9 > knockpin holes on the camshaft and 10 holes on the sprocket to > give a simpler vernier adjust. Maybe I'll get around to it one day. > > Mister_T > Melbourne Australia >

Thanks for the help. Todd A9

[zootpatutie]

> Todd, no offense, but I think the use of adhesive in that situation > has about as much chance of succeeding as the CO suggestion about > being a Sons of Silence prospect on a KLR. > > I would be looking at either welding up the elongated holes or > drilled out and rebushed (anyone ever had to do this to kingpins? I > have, a couple times) or figuring out something else that will last > under the stress that a weak spot is going to create, as the chain > pulls the cam around at a zillion revolutions per minute. >

No offense taken. Thought about my idea last night and came to the same conclusion. Went through the weld the flange edges, epoxy, etc. type of thinking. On examination today can see that the flange hole is in pretty good shape. The pin might experience some lack of support at the mating surface interface, but would be anchored well at the new sprocket and for the majority of the flange depth. Will still probably have a machinist friend take a look anyway to confirm best course. Thanks for your input. Todd

[Jimmy James]

Maybe you could line every thing back up, tighten the bolts, and redrill the index hole through the cam and sprocket in another place. The "roller" might be a hardened pin like the roller out of a roller bearing. James in SC., full of ideas at 11:30 pm.

----- Original Message ----- From: "zootpatutie" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com>; "Ted Palmer" Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 10:22 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] cam update > > > > Unless the sprocket mating surface of the camshaft is damaged then > > you should only need to locktite the bolt threads. > > No need to loctite the pin. > > Mating surfaces are in good shape only slight impression from the pin at the > edge of the camshaft flange hole. Was able to drive the pin remnants out > with a center punch and a bent nail. > > > > Was the sprocket bolt loose? Was there any remnant of locking agent > > on the threads? > > Bolt seemed tight. As to evidence of locking agent there is a slight light > discoloration to the threads, but it looks more like where they cleaned as > they cam out rather than locking agent remnants. > > > > Slotted hole on the sprocket eh? Strooth, I could pay money to have > > a cam sprocket made adjustable like that. > > A neater way to make adjustable sprockets would be to put maybe 9 > > knockpin holes on the camshaft and 10 holes on the sprocket to > > give a simpler vernier adjust. Maybe I'll get around to it one day. > > > > Mister_T > > Melbourne Australia > > > Thanks for the help. > Todd > A9 > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[Zachariah Mully]

Darrel- Go to here: http://www.arrowweb.com/bake/skffpl.htm And get yourself a nice set of double shielded (this means rubber seals on both sides, double sealed means metal seals on both side) SKF's for the grand total of a couple bucks a piece. I have used these guys at Johnson Bearing and they're a real pleasure to deal with as well as being dirt cheap. Zack

On Fri, 2001-11-16 at 23:51, Darrel & Deanna wrote: > Many many moons ago, one Dash Weeks posted the following > numbers for the rear wheel assy: > > 6003 Sprocket side of hub > 6004 Disk side of hub > 6204 Sprocket hub assy > > My question is which style of each bearing is best to use; > open, sealed, or shielded? I'd like to upgrade from the > OEM style if practical. > > Also, what's the OEM number for the fish oil to slather them up with? > > Darrel > A12 >