rebound setting

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Glenn Tompkins
Posts: 30
Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2001 8:49 am

brake bleeding, nklr

Post by Glenn Tompkins » Sun Oct 07, 2001 8:19 am

I have this same problem with the wife's Maxim. Dual discs, put new seals in the master cylinder, bore was corroded, sandpapered the rust out, after 1/2 pint of brake fluid and 2 hours, no pressure. Desparate...the Yamaha is garage queen...hate it. Any more suggestions? By the way, used Mity Vac to no avail. Thanks. Glenn A13 82 Maxim (Garage bitch)
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., david.smith@s... wrote: > I just installed the Galfner Braided Brake line and I cannot get it > to bleed. I have gone thru a half a container of brake fluid no > brakes at all and no bubbles anymore. Anyone have any suggestions.

Ted Palmer
Posts: 1068
Joined: Sat Apr 08, 2000 7:09 am

brake bleeding, nklr

Post by Ted Palmer » Sun Oct 07, 2001 9:28 am

Glenn Tompkins wrote:
> I have this same problem with the wife's Maxim. Dual discs, put new > seals in the master cylinder, bore was corroded, sandpapered the rust > out, after 1/2 pint of brake fluid and 2 hours, no pressure. > Desparate...the Yamaha is garage queen...hate it. Any more > suggestions? By the way, used Mity Vac to no avail. Thanks.
This reminds me of the time I put new seals in the master cylinder of my first car, a Morris Mini van. I couldn't get a firm pedal out of it after bleeding it for ages. I pulled the MC apart again and figured out that the new seals were for a 0.70inch bore, and my MC was actually a 0.75inch bore. Mister_T Melbourne Australia

Glenn Tompkins
Posts: 30
Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2001 8:49 am

brake bleeding, nklr

Post by Glenn Tompkins » Sun Oct 07, 2001 11:30 am

Hey Mr T, This was my first, and worst fear. Push comes to shove I guess I can disassemble and measure the evil little things. But I find it hard to believe my local parts place would let me down. The Easter Bunny said I could trust them... Glenn -- In DSN_klr650@y..., Ted Palmer wrote:
> Glenn Tompkins wrote: > > > I have this same problem with the wife's Maxim. Dual discs, put
new
> > seals in the master cylinder, bore was corroded, sandpapered the
rust
> > out, after 1/2 pint of brake fluid and 2 hours, no pressure. > > Desparate...the Yamaha is garage queen...hate it. Any more > > suggestions? By the way, used Mity Vac to no avail. Thanks. > > This reminds me of the time I put new seals in the master cylinder > of my first car, a Morris Mini van. > I couldn't get a firm pedal out of it after bleeding it for ages. > I pulled the MC apart again and figured out that the new seals were > for a 0.70inch bore, and my MC was actually a 0.75inch bore. > > Mister_T > Melbourne Australia

Ted Palmer
Posts: 1068
Joined: Sat Apr 08, 2000 7:09 am

brake bleeding, nklr

Post by Ted Palmer » Mon Oct 08, 2001 4:10 am

Glenn Tompkins wrote: [master cylinders seals replaced, now no pressure]
> This was my first, and worst fear. Push comes to shove I guess I can > disassemble and measure the evil little things. But I find it hard to > believe my local parts place would let me down. The Easter Bunny said > I could trust them...
If you can't get a firm lever and you suspect the master cylinder, find a way to block off the outlet port of the MC, pump it and see if it goes firm. Try blocking off the port with your finger first to see if the MC is at least trying to push fluid. It could get a bit messy but thems the breaks. If the MC passes this first test, a suitable size clean bolt could then be fitted into the port. Maybe loosen the bolt a bit and bleed it a bit before tightening it up to seal. If you can't get a _real_ firm lever this way then you have some problem with the MC. If it is real firm then you have a problem somewhere down the line. Mister_T Melbourne Australia

Devon Jarvis
Posts: 2322
Joined: Thu May 10, 2001 9:41 am

brake bleeding, nklr

Post by Devon Jarvis » Mon Oct 08, 2001 10:34 pm

I had an '85 maxim. Great bike, one of the more bulletproof motors. There are thousands of those things around, you should be able to pick up a salvage master cylinder pretty cheap. Does that one have the square bars? I have a friend who's '85 maxim was stuck by a truck while parked, that MC would be for sale cheap but it's for a round 7/8" handlebar. How does yours mount? Also, have you inquired on the XJ owners list on micapeak.com? Those guys were a lot of help when I had my XJ. Devon A15 78 SR500 81 SR500 Glenn Tompkins wrote:
> I have this same problem with the wife's Maxim. Dual discs, put new > seals in the master cylinder, bore was corroded, sandpapered the rust > out, after 1/2 pint of brake fluid and 2 hours, no pressure. > Desparate...the Yamaha is garage queen...hate it. Any more > suggestions? By the way, used Mity Vac to no avail. Thanks. > > Glenn > A13 > 82 Maxim (Garage bitch) > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., david.smith@s... wrote: > > I just installed the Galfner Braided Brake line and I cannot get it > > to bleed. I have gone thru a half a container of brake fluid no > > brakes at all and no bubbles anymore. Anyone have any suggestions. > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Devon Jarvis
Posts: 2322
Joined: Thu May 10, 2001 9:41 am

rebound setting

Post by Devon Jarvis » Tue Oct 09, 2001 10:00 am

Thanks, I didn't know that. That means that the progressive spring will actually need LESS force to compress it initially than the stock, and then will require far more force to bottom it. Funny, the front stock springs also run a lot of preload. Oh well, no time to get a replacement rear spring before Sunday. Devon A15 standerson@... wrote:
> > > > > I have been told the stock spring is 300lb/in. On preload setting > #3, > > which is maybe .5" of preloading, this mean you need 450lb of force > to > > begin compressing the shock (but it thereafter compresses at > 300lb/in). > > If the bike is tolerable with #4 or #5 preload, then the progressive > > spring (500 to 550 lb/in) would feel about the same on surfaced > roads. > > Take into account that the stock spring (at pre-load setting 1) is > pre-loaded well over an inch and the progressive maybe an eighth of > an inch (at installation). In other words, unloaded, the progressive > spring is more than an inch shorter than the stock one. > > I think this will give you the appropriate rate with the right sag. > The progressive on the rear makes at least as much difference as the > progressives up front for me... > > Steve A. in AZ

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