big bend, texas get together

[John Julian]

Hi Everyone! I finally got my new 2001 KLR650 yesterday. When I unloaded it at home, I noticed two problems with the clutch. First, the starter button ONLY worked when the transmission was in neutral and the clutch was engaged. It didn't work in any other gear, with or without the clutch lever in. I removed the clutch lever switch housing and replaced it. After I did this, the started button worked in all gears with the clutch disengaged, and in neutral either way. I did notice that the switch had a lot of play in it. It must have been out of alignment when it was assembled. Second, I noticed that when the clutch was disengaged, I couldn't move the bike if it was in gear. It would actually slip a little, but usually would turn the engine over. Also, when the engine is running and the clutch disengaged, when I shift into 1st, the bike would lurch forward. I adjusted the clutch a bit and it didn't change the way it acted. (with the adjustment on the cable at the clutch lever) Is this a characteristic of a new clutch? I did notice that there is way too much oil in the engine, and am getting ready to drain some out. Could this be the problem? (They must not have been paying to much attention when assembling this bike at the dealer.. Also, they didn't tighten all the nuts on the clamps on the front forks. I noticed this when I tipped the bike(Still getting used to the size of a 650.. Afterwards, the handlebars were out of alignment. We got it straightened out as best we could and tightened the loose nuts. I'm not sure of the best way to align the front forks, since my service manuals are on order. I'm going to take it back in on Tuesday and have them go over it. There might be something else that they missed when assembling it. Finally, this is more of a question than a problem. On Page 23 of the manual (A15) it mentions that the headlight is supposed to turn on after the starter button is pressed and released and the engine starts. Mine turns on whenever the key is turned on. Is the manual wrong? Or is this another problem I need to have the dealer look at? Anyway, other than these little quirks, it's a great bike! I went riding for about 20 miles yesterday in the Tillamook State Forest, and it handles great. First is geared a little higher than I'm used to, but it did pretty well off-road.. Thanks in advance for any answers! John Julian NT/UNIX Systems Administrator Mentor Graphics Wilsonville, OR.

[cactus_reese@yahoo.com]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "John Julian" wrote:

> Hi Everyone! > > Second, I noticed that when the clutch was disengaged, I couldn't > move the bike if it was in gear. It would actually slip a little, > but usually would turn the engine over. > > Also, when the engine is running and the clutch disengaged, when I > shift into 1st, the bike would lurch forward. > > I adjusted the clutch a bit and it didn't change the way it acted. > (with the adjustment on the cable at the clutch lever) > > Is this a characteristic of a new clutch?

It is normal for a KLR to have the clutch grab when it is cold. To eliminate the lurch you can put the bike in gear and rock it with the clutch lever pulled back until it frees, then start it and go. This characteristic bothered me at first, but I've learned to live with it. I did notice that there is

> way too much oil in the engine, and am getting ready to drain some > out. Could this be the problem? > > (They must not have been paying to much attention when assembling > this bike at the dealer..

It is commonly believed that 2.5 liters of oil fills up above the sight glass and that the sight glass is in the wrong place. Another quirk.

> Also, they didn't tighten all the nuts on the clamps on the front > forks. I noticed this when I tipped the bike(Still getting used

to

> the size of a 650.. > > Afterwards, the handlebars were out of alignment. We got it > straightened out as best we could and tightened the loose nuts.

I'm

> not sure of the best way to align the front forks, since my service > manuals are on order. I'm going to take it back in on Tuesday and > have them go over it. There might be something else that they

missed

> when assembling it. >

I lift the front end with a jack so the front wheel is just off the ground, then loosen the clamp bolts (top and bottom clamps). Then put the wheel between my knees and twist the handlebars to align the wheel with the fender, then retighten clamp bolts to 180 inch-lbs (15 ft-lbs).

> Finally, this is more of a question than a problem. > > On Page 23 of the manual (A15) it mentions that the headlight is > supposed to turn on after the starter button is pressed and

released

> and the engine starts. > > Mine turns on whenever the key is turned on. > > Is the manual wrong? Or is this another problem I need to have the > dealer look at? >

Normal. -Bryan A12

[RichardM]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "John Julian" wrote:

>First, the starter button ONLY worked when the transmission was in >neutral and the clutch was engaged. It didn't work in any other >gear, with or without the clutch lever in.

They like to do this. Mine did it about a month after buying the bike. I've seen others do this early on as well. I say just disable the damn thing and be done with it...

>Second, I noticed that when the clutch was disengaged, I couldn't >move the bike if it was in gear. It would actually slip a little, >but usually would turn the engine over.

Clutch plates sticking together. Squeezing the clutch lever stops the clutch plates from being forced together but it does not forcefully separate them. Did that make sense? (3 Killians and 1 Bass tonight - sorry).

>Also, when the engine is running and the clutch disengaged, when I >shift into 1st, the bike would lurch forward.

Normal. See above.

>I did notice that there is >way too much oil in the engine, and am getting ready to drain some >out. Could this be the problem?

How much is way too much? There was a big religious war on this list back in 1999 regarding the location of the sight glass. There's a sizable faction of owners who go to the TOP of the sight glass PLUS 10 ounces. Their engines are still running fine. Do you think that you have this much oil in there?

>(They must not have been paying to much attention when assembling >this bike at the dealer..

Original fill? I'd drain it right now. My first oil change was at 70 miles and the oil looked like crap. Lotsa metal in there.

>On Page 23 of the manual (A15) it mentions that the headlight is >supposed to turn on after the starter button is pressed and released >and the engine starts. >Mine turns on whenever the key is turned on.

Huh? I've never heard of this. When the key's on, the light is on... RM

[Ted Palmer]

John Julian wrote: [tale of dubious dealer prep] You should only be able to use the electric starter when in gear if the clutch is fully pulled in. The starter should be able to be operated anytime the gears are in neutral, clutch in or out. [clutch apparently not disengaging correctly]

> Is this a characteristic of a new clutch? I did notice that there is > way too much oil in the engine, and am getting ready to drain some > out. Could this be the problem?

If the cable is adjusted correctly then see how the clutch goes after some use.

> (They must not have been paying to much attention when assembling > this bike at the dealer..

As is all too often the case. Pre-delivery checks are something that many dealers treat as a mere formality.

> Also, they didn't tighten all the nuts on the clamps on the front > forks. I noticed this when I tipped the bike(Still getting used to > the size of a 650..

Also check that the top of the fork tubes are level with with the upper surface of the top triple clamp. Dealers have a habit of leaving the forks in the as-crated position where the forks are a few inches up the clamps. [...]

> On Page 23 of the manual (A15) it mentions that the headlight is > supposed to turn on after the starter button is pressed and released > and the engine starts. > Mine turns on whenever the key is turned on.

Sounds like the manual might be wrong. There are other bigger, fancier Kawasakis that do have some kind of relay in the headlight circuit but I am not aware of the KLR using this feature. No doubt US-based listers will have more authoritative opinions. [...] Mister_T Melbourne Australia

[Steve Viertell]

Yes, it does say that in the manual and that's exactly how both the EX250 and the Connie work..On my '01 KLR the light comes on as soon as you turn on the key, I always figgered there was something wrong and I would bring it up under warranty...Maybe the manual's wrong? Steve Viertell, Chico, CA '01 Concours, "Smurfie" '01 EX250, "Ninjita" '01 KLR650 "No Name" COG 4274 IBA 6049 WA6ZGK www.viertell.com/bikes/

>>> "RichardM" 09/03/01 12:36AM >>> --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "John Julian" wrote: >On Page 23 of the manual (A15) it mentions that the headlight is >supposed to turn on after the starter button is pressed and released >and the engine starts. >Mine turns on whenever the key is turned on. Huh? I've never heard of this. When the key's on, the light is on... RM Checkout Dual Sport News at http://www.dualsportnews.com Be part of the Adventure! Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[John Irvine]

According to the BB web group site is a minimum of 10, $2 a head per night, 3 locations. All I'd like to do is to meet, do a day of dirt or a morning, whatever, maybe a day of pavement, along the river and maybe through Fort Davis, and that should do. If everyone stays in different places fine, then just meet at X at whatever time. --- KLR650Pilot@... wrote:

> OK. Try to persuade them to e-mail me their > information. Or, if they are more > comfortable, they can call me with it at (512) > 280-4682. > > Jim > KLR650Pilot (Austin)

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