project bike...

[dougtyrone@aol.com]

My 2001 with 1002 miles has been sitting for 5 months, dealer said varnish in carb...needs to be cleaned $100+$. PUT IN CARB CLEANER BETTER NOW BUT NOT 100%. do i NEED TO TURN OUT PILOT SCREW........FEELS TOO LEAN. Was fine until parked so long? Help Please.

[Kurt Simpson]

My 2001 with 1002 miles has been sitting for 5 months, dealer said varnish in carb...needs to be cleaned $100+$. PUT IN CARB CLEANER BETTER NOW BUT NOT 100%. do i NEED TO TURN OUT PILOT SCREW........FEELS TOO LEAN. Was fine until parked so long? Help Please. ________ Some people claim a bottle of Techron works wonders. It would be worth a try. If you're handy with tools cleaning your carb is cake and we'll be pleased to walk you through it. Just say the word. Probably takes an hour start to finish in your case. Kurt

[Mark St.Hilaire, Sr]

> My 2001 with 1002 miles has been sitting for 5 months, dealer said varnish

in

> carb...needs to be cleaned $100+$. PUT IN CARB CLEANER BETTER NOW BUT NOT > 100%. do i NEED TO TURN OUT PILOT SCREW........FEELS TOO LEAN. Was fine > until parked so long? Help Please.

My previous bike, God Rest Her Aluminum Soul, was a GoldWing. Over on the GWRRA board, (Gold Wing Road Riders Association), the big thing is Marvel Mystery Oil, which is recommended as a cure for this type of thing and for reconditioning. They put it in the gas, 4oz into a 6gal tank, to clean that part of the system, and do an oil change using 1 quart less, dump in 1 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil - MMO - and ride for 200-300 miles and do another oil AND filter change. I'm just passing this along, I've never used it and have no personal experience with it. I just wanted to mention that there IS rabid support for it, and perhaps it would be worth looking into... Mark St.Hilaire, Sr A15 HomePage: http://home.adelphia.net/~msaint/

[Andrus Chesley]

Andy Chesley Jennings, La. KLR & R11RA Probably needs to have the carb come apart and check the pilot jet for being restricted. Did they drill out the idle mix plug, pull the needle and clean there also? But, first I would try to reset the idle mix screw on out to 2 - 2.5 turns and see what it does there.

----- Original Message ----- > My 2001 with 1002 miles has been sitting for 5 months, dealer said varnish in > carb...needs to be cleaned $100+$. PUT IN CARB CLEANER BETTER NOW BUT NOT > 100%. do i NEED TO TURN OUT PILOT SCREW........FEELS TOO LEAN. Was fine > until parked so long? Help Please.

[Devon Jarvis]

Doug, My '01 is a month old, has been ridden at least twice a week since purchase, and has 1500 miles. I have started to get light popping on the overrun, which is due to the EPA friendly jetting I guess. It didn't do it for the first few hundred miles, or maybe I just didn't notice because I was keeping a 4000rpm redline. I have checked the exhaust flange nuts, they are tight. Perhaps the new air filter had a bit of extra oil in it, and the mild choking effect kept the motor a tiny bit richer, until it all dried out? 5 months sitting, your dealer is probably right. Are you familiar with Stabil? Also, your carb comes with a convenient bowl drain, just stick a hose on it, turn the tiny allen screw until the fuel starts pouring down the hose, and close the screw after it stops. This will prevent the jets from clogging over long storage. You might get lucky with a little more carb cleaner, but in the end it's no substitute for pulling the carb and cleaning it. I have noticed mild/slight surging at small throttle openings, while maintaining a steady speed. I think opening the air mix screw another 1/2-3/4 turn would be a good place to start. Stock is 1 7/8 out I believe, you should never have it out past 3 turns. If you need more than that then go up 1 pilot jet and start over. I haven't bothered to do this yet (on my KLR anyway). Be glad you only have one carb. Devon dougtyrone@... wrote:

> My 2001 with 1002 miles has been sitting for 5 months, dealer said varnish in > carb...needs to be cleaned $100+$. PUT IN CARB CLEANER BETTER NOW BUT NOT > 100%. do i NEED TO TURN OUT PILOT SCREW........FEELS TOO LEAN. Was fine > until parked so long? Help Please. > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Support Dual Sport News by subscribing at: > http://www.dualsportnews.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Devon Jarvis]

I swore by Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel, and added to crankcase oil for my '48 Willy's jeep (RIP). I still use it on my older bikes, sometimes a couple of ounces in the fuel tank (13L tank), and I dump a few ounces into the crankcase just before changing the oil. I'm not sure what effect putting a lot in would have on a wet clutch though. I have used one ounce per liter of crankcase oil in the winter if I only had 20W50 on hand when changing oil (thin it out a bit). Smells nice too. Devon "Mark St.Hilaire, Sr" wrote: snip Over on the

> GWRRA board, (Gold Wing Road Riders Association), the big thing is Marvel > Mystery Oil, which is recommended as a cure for this type of thing and for > reconditioning. They put it in the gas, 4oz into a 6gal tank, to clean that > part of the system, and do an oil change using 1 quart less, dump in 1 quart > of Marvel Mystery Oil - MMO - and ride for 200-300 miles and do another oil > AND filter change. > > I'm just passing this along, I've never used it and have no personal > experience with it. I just wanted to mention that there IS rabid support for > it, and perhaps it would be worth looking into... > > > Mark St.Hilaire, Sr > A15 > HomePage: > http://home.adelphia.net/~msaint/ > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Support Dual Sport News by subscribing at: > http://www.dualsportnews.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Kurt Simpson]

turn would be a good place to start. Stock is 1 7/8 out I believe, you should never have it out past 3 turns. ________ mine was 7/8...not 1 7/8...so it was very lean... Kurt

[Devon Jarvis]

Did I not remember the spec correctly, or was your bike set up wrong from the factory? Devon Kurt Simpson wrote:

> turn would be a good place to start. Stock is 1 7/8 out I believe, you should > never have it out past 3 turns. > ________ > > mine was 7/8...not 1 7/8...so it was very lean... > > Kurt > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Support Dual Sport News by subscribing at: > http://www.dualsportnews.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Kurt Simpson]

Did I not remember the spec correctly, or was your bike set up wrong from the factory? ________ I'm not sure, (I know longer have the manuals to check)...but either way it points out that it is worth a look. Best, Kurt

[Kurt Simpson]

Yes, I would like to work on carb. Went for a 113 mile ride today, still pops-back on deceleration. Have gone through 2 tanks of gas now with little improvement. Do I have to totally remove the carb? What about the pilot screw, thanks for your assistance. Doug _________ Totally remove the carb? Probably not, but it is my preference. Either way you start by disconnecting the choke cable at the left handlebar. This is so you'll be able to rotate the carb to a position to unscrew the very fragile plastic nut covering the fuel enricher on the carbie's front left side. Loosen and disconnect the throttle cables at the carb. It's been a long time but if I recall I sometimes had a hard time doing this without removing the fuel tank. Loosen the clamps fore and aft of the carb. Seems like I'm forgetting something...rotate the carb clockwise enough to get at that plastic nut (14mm?). Loosen and remove the fuel enricher circuit. Now you should be able to rotate the carb the other way...counterclockwise. Pull the float bowl. Remove the main jet. Now, be very careful. You need to have some carb cleaner and this stuff is very dangerous. Put on some safety goggles. You want to use the little red plastic hose to squirt through the jet making sure it is absolutely clean...when you do this you have to be ready for spray coming back at you as well as where the jet is pointing as it will squirt through. Please be careful. When you're getting a clear stream hold it to a light make sure you can see completely through without the slightest obstruction. Make sure the float bowl is clean. You can probably get away with laying several rags on the side of your engine and carefully and sparingly spraying the exposed part of the carb from the underside. Drill out the cap covering the pilot screw, make sure and find the correct one. You only have to drill through a thin aluminum layer and then put a sheet metal screw in to loosen the cap. When you're there. Seat the screw to the right gently, back it out 2 1/2 turns. Push the floats to make sure they're free and easy. I don't think I'd advise you to remove the floats unless you're feeling confident at this point but ideally, if you had it on a bench...you'd strip this and the entire carb spraying and inspecting the float needle valve. Put everything back together. Now rotate the carb clockwise again until you can get at the top. Working carefully (again, I would spread some clean white rags on the side and under your engine. Remove the top cover of the carb and very gently pull the diaphragm, slide and spring assembly. Keep track of the washers on the needle. Again with goggles, spray the throat of the carb sparingly and the carb slide. Avoid getting the carb cleaner on any rubber or plastic parts. I use some WD40 to clean those parts. Put it back together again. The slide will only slip in one way because of the grooves. Be very careful with the diaphragm as it is expensive to replace and relatively fragile. Make sure it is properly seated and will not be pinched when you replace the top of the carb. Button it up and reverse the steps that we started with. Don't do anything until the list looks over what I've written as I'm certain I've missed a step or two. Redondo's terrific article is a must read before you start: http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html Kurt