mira cool vest (now oops wrong+nklr)

[Barry Pedersen]

I was greatly dismayed recently when I pulled the countershaft sprocket off of my A9 for the first time.  I bought it last August.  A few weeks ago, I decided that the chain was ready for replacement (9700 mi).  I replaced the chain and sprockets as set, but when I pulled off the countershaft sprocket, I could see that it had worn down the teeth (splines) on the countershaft.  Comparing the area where the sprocket rides to the end of the shaft revealed obvious wear.  The teeth on my retainer were also seriously mangled.    If you haven't recently inspected the condition of your countershaft with the sprocket off, I strongly advise doing so at your earliest convenience.  Once the teeth on the countershaft are rounded off, your bike becomes just a noisy paperweight, and the engine must be removed and split to replace the countershaft.    Anyway, the culprit was play in the fit of the sprocket on the countershaft.  If you have a pre-'96 KLR650, your countershaft sprocket is held on by a retainer fastened to the sprocket with two bolts.  If your bike is like mine was, this set up allows the countershaft sprocket to move from side to side on the shaft during operation causing excess wear.    Fortunately, there is a fix available.  Sagebrush Machine Shop has shim sets available ($10), that you can install behind your countershaft sprocket (between the sprocket and engine) to remove the play.  They come in sets because after market countershaft sprockets aren't necessarily the same width as the stocker.  So, if you get a set, keep all of them in case you swap your Kawasaki c/s sprocket for one of these.    Also available from Sagebrush are upgraded retainers (also $10).  The stock retainer is designed so that no matter how it's slid onto the countershaft, once it's rotated to line up the bolt holes, its teeth will somewhat overlap the splines on the countershaft.  The retainer rides in a groove going around the countershaft, and it keeps the sprocket on because it's teeth won't line up between the countershaft splines once its bolted to the sprocket.  This may be hard to visualize, but it's quite obvious once you're looking at it.  The problem with the stock retainer is that its teeth only partially overlap the countershaft splines.  I think this contributes to the play problem.    The Sagebrush retainer is a little thicker and is cut so that its teeth fully overlap the countershaft splines once its correctly installed.  CAUTION!  If it's incorrectly installed, there is zero overlap, and the c/s sprocket can slide off.  This tends to ruin your day.   I have the shims and upgraded retainer on my A9 now, and there is no side-to-side play in my countershaft sprocket.  It's much sturdier than before.  If you find you have play in your setup, definitely give Sagebrush a call and talk to Dave Jakeman about the upgrade.  He's very helpful, and he's available eves and weekends.   Sagebrush Machine Shop 49 S 400, PO Box 339 Milford, Utah  84751-0039. (435)387-5575.   There's no email address, but he has a page on the DSN website. http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page92.html

[wileyE_@excite.com]

My $.02, my xr350r has the same type of "floating" sprocket as my A6. It has been reported in the XR world for years to use ONLY oem Honda contershaft spockets as many of the aftermarket spline fit and/or sprocket spacing was often less than desireable. $.02 more, IMHO the stock spec for the klr chain is too tight, at least it checks that way on mine.

--- In DSN_klr650@egroups.com, "Conall O'Brien" wrote: > > > >From: Tom Myers > >To: DSN_klr650@egroups.com > >Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Countershaft protection for older KLRs > >Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 11:15:59 -0700 > > I believe you have disguised the solution to your problem below. I think > your chain was too tight. But what do I know, it's really just an > assumption. > > >>Anyway, the culprit was play in the fit of the sprocket on the > >>countershaft. If you have a pre-'96 KLR650, your countershaft > >>sprocket is held on by a retainer fastened to the sprocket with two > >>bolts. If your bike is like mine was, this set up allows the > >>countershaft sprocket to move from side to side on the shaft during > >>operation causing excess wear. > > Then tom wrote: > > >I've been told this looseness is intentional to increase the life of > >the drivetrain. Hondas have 'loose' countershaft sprockets too. > >Anyone know the "truth"? > > > >Tom > > > > I agree with you Tom, I'd rather replace a countershaft sprocket retainer > than a driveshaft anyday. For those of you who are ready to upgrade to a > better mousetrap, you better hope you don't overtighten your chain again and > strip the splines off the actual driveshaft. I'll get off my soapbox now, > sorry. > > Conall > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >+------------------------------------+ > >| CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 > >| 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 > >| Seattle, WA 98122 USA > >| webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com > >| e-mail: TomMyers@c... > >+------------------------------------+ > > ______________________________________________________________________ __ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com

[wileyE_@excite.com]

With a straight edge get the center of the countershaft, swingarm pivot, and axle all to line up. This will be the tightest position, shoot for 3/4" at his point. Remember to find the "short" part of the chain, unless new there is always a tight section. You can compress the suspension many ways, tiedowns, ratchet strap, anyway you can hold it where you want it. I had the bike on a stand with the linkage removed for grease and was able to shim under the tire with some scrap wood. When you get all done remeasure it on the sidestand (or centerstand) to get your target spec. Write it on the swing arm with a perm pen halfway between the countershaft and axle for future reference and checking location. I think you'll find it to be a bit looser than the spec Kawi gives, at least it is on mine. Adjusted this way it seems to go a long time between needed adjustments. When done to the stock (tight) specs adjustments are chain strechin, sprocket wreckin often. wE A6,GS,MXC,XR,700doo

[thesquasher@hotmail.com]

Your not supose to post addvertisment to the list. And it's NKLR also. Check with KURT SIMPSON first before posting.

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Danodemotoman" wrote: > order form >