exhaust direction deflection for s-trapp e.a.r.???

[Arna van de Meerakker-Groenewolt]

Hi there, I'm a new member from holland and own a '89 KLR650 which I bought a few weeks ago. The bike seems to be OK except for a ticking noise when opening throttle. I read a lot in the archive about the balancer chain so I first checked it out. Indeed there is too much slack and de tensioner doesn't seem to work at all if I loosen the adjuster bolt. I don't have any special KLR tools so my question is: How can I remove the flywheel without the special tools. Somehow I need to block the wheel so I can unscrew the 19mm bolt. Please let me know if there is anybody who, and better yet, how he did this. Thanks in advance, Nico

[Juan Carlos Ibarra]

Hi Nico, I know exactly what you are talking about, my bike had the same noise while I was riding from Mexico to the Arctic. You definetely need the proper tools to take off the rotor. Loosening the nut is just a little part of the job, you MUST have an apropriate extractor, without it you just cannot perform this job. While travelling I discovered that I could adjust the chain with the motor running and the noise stopped. I did this: start engine loosen bolt no more than half a turn, retighten bolt. If this doesn t work, take the bike to a shop, there's nothing more to do. Juan

----- Original Message ----- From: Arna van de Meerakker-Groenewolt To: DSN_klr650@egroups.com> Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 1:53 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] How to remove alternator flywheel without standard tools > Hi there, > I'm a new member from holland and own a '89 KLR650 which I bought a > few weeks ago. > The bike seems to be OK except for a ticking noise when opening > throttle. I read a lot in the archive about the balancer chain so I > first checked it out. Indeed there is too much slack and de tensioner > doesn't seem to work at all if I loosen the adjuster bolt. > I don't have any special KLR tools so my question is: > How can I remove the flywheel without the special tools. > Somehow I need to block the wheel so I can unscrew the 19mm bolt. > > Please let me know if there is anybody who, and better yet, how he > did this. > > Thanks in advance, Nico > > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com > >

[Ted Palmer]

Arna van de Meerakker-Groenewolt wrote: [...]

> How can I remove the flywheel without the special tools. > Somehow I need to block the wheel so I can unscrew the 19mm bolt.

[...] I would not try it without special tools, but I think there was a lister that was able to hold the rotor by cleverly using some seat belt webbing. As Juan suggests, you still need a way to pull the rotor off after you take out the retaining bolt. You would still need a bolt the right size that screws into the rotor to take the rotor off the taper on the end of the crank, while the rotor is held still somehow. Mister_T Melbourne Australia

[Arna van de Meerakker-Groenewolt]

Hi there, I had some good advise on my request. I'll first go for Juan's hint because that's the easiest to try. I'm only not sure if it is it still worth a try to adjust the chain with the engine running even if I see that partnr: 13168A is broken? (I got the part number from a microfiche picture of the balancer system and I don't know its name.... sorry.) Oh what the heck... I'm gonna try it anyway. If it works, it might get me through winter time. I need the bike to get me to my job each day. Next spring I'll do a complete repair of the balancer system. By that time I also should have the special tools. I read in an old mail that the tools are: Magneto holder: pn. 57001-1184 Flywheel puller:pn. 57001-1185 Thanks again and I'll post the results soon. Nico BTW, Is it also possible to attach pictures in this mail-group. Sometimes one picture might be much more clear than two pages of text. --- In DSN_klr650@egroups.com, "Juan Carlos Ibarra" wrote:

> Hi Nico, > > I know exactly what you are talking about, my bike had the same

noise while

> I was riding from Mexico to the Arctic. You definetely need the

proper tools

> to take off the rotor. Loosening the nut is just a little part of

the job,

> you MUST have an apropriate extractor, without it you just cannot

perform

> this job. > > While travelling I discovered that I could adjust the chain with

the motor

> running and the noise stopped. I did this: start engine loosen bolt

no more

> than half a turn, retighten bolt. > > If this doesn t work, take the bike to a shop, there's nothing

more to do.

> > Juan > >

[Mark]

At 12:04 PM +0000 12/24/00, Arna van de Meerakker-Groenewolt wrote:

>Hi there, > >I had some good advise on my request. >I'll first go for Juan's hint because that's the easiest to try. >I'm only not sure if it is it still worth a try to adjust the chain >with the engine running even if I see that partnr: 13168A is broken? >(I got the part number from a microfiche picture of the balancer >system and I don't know its name.... sorry.) >Oh what the heck... I'm gonna try it anyway. >If it works, it might get me through winter time. I need the bike to >get me to my job each day. Next spring I'll do a complete repair of >the balancer system. By that time I also should have the special >tools. I read in an old mail that the tools are: >Magneto holder: pn. 57001-1184 >Flywheel puller:pn. 57001-1185

It is NOT necessary to remove the flywheel to do an inspection of the intactness and functionality of the balancer tensioner. Just remove the magneto cover. There's enough space for you to peer in with a flashlight (and a small inspection mirror if you like). You can manually adjust the tension by loosening the keeper bolt, nudging the tensioner arm with a screwdriver, and retightening the bolt. The first time you do this procedure, you may want to lean the bike way to the right, withdraw the keeper bolt all the way, put an appropriate washer on it and reinstall. This will prevent the keeper bolt from further embossing of the tensioner arm. I would definitely suggest manual adjustment over the "running engine method". Mark B2 A2

[Fred Hink]

[b]Supertrapp makes a deflector that directs the exhaust mostly to the rear.  I used one on a Procircuit pipe (which used the Supertrapp discs) and it still would put enough exhaust on the rear fender to make it change color.  To stop that I bent over part of the deflector next to the fender and then I had no more problems.[/b] [b]I think I have one of these deflectors in stock if you need one.[/b][b] Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com '00 VFR800FI '00 XR650R (2)'94 XR650L 4 sale '94 XR250L 4 sale (300 mi) '78 Z1-R 4 sale   [/b] 

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] guymanbro@... [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@egroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, December 28, 2000 1:16 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_klr650] Exhaust direction deflection for S-Trapp E.A.R.??? I've seen a few bikes with add-on exhaust deflector thingys on the Supertrapp E.A.R. Anybody know if there is any maker of these, or were they all fabricated by crafty owners/friends-of-owners. I don't mind the melted plastic, but I don't want everything in my saddlebags to smell like exhaust (it's bad enough my helmet has to smell like my ass). Would putting something like this on greatly reduce the effectiveness of the Trapp? The other option is to attach a piece of sheet metal to Tim's NW rack at the tip of the exhaust, but I heard someone say it ain't easy material to weld to. Any truth to that? Thanks for input, dat brooklyn bum _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/ Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com