preheating for cold temperatures

[Richard Ohnstad]

I just completed the upgrade (that can be done without splitting the cases) of the balance chain tensioner system.  This involves adding a part (92200-1263, Washer - 6.5 x 12 x 2), upgrading two parts with a later revision (92150-1923, Bolt, Idler Adjuster & 92144-1860, Idler Spring), and replacing a part with a new one (670B1507, 7mm O-Ring).

 

The revised Idler Spring has, I believe, a slightly larger diameter wire than the old one, and definitely has more resistance to elongation.

 

The original Bolt, Idler Adjuster had a shoulder that was in direct contact with the Lever, Idler Shaft.  On the revised Bolt, Idler Adjuster this shoulder has a larger O.D., and this shoulder is now in contact with the added Washer which is in turn now in contact with the Lever Idler Shaft.  BTW, the O.D. of this washer is a little larger than the O.D. of the shoulder on the revised Bolt, Idler Adjuster.  The other change to the Bolt, Idler Adjuster is the plane of the shoulder is further away from the tip of the bolt by about the thickness of the washer - this allows the O-Ring to seat in about the same position within the Magneto Cover as it always did.

 

These changes will have some effect, I believe, on how and how often you perform the recommended "balance chain tension - adjustment".  Because the new spring has more tension than the old spring, I think that will induce wear and elongation of the chain faster than before.  Therefore, you would want to perform the adjustment more frequently than every 5,000km as called out in the maintenance table.  With the old Bolt, Idler Adjuster (with the smaller O.D. shoulder), I could definitely see deformation of the Lever Idler Shaft on my KLR - hence the need on this design to back out the Bolt, Idler Adjuster further before retightening it.  With the new Bolt, Idler Adjuster & Washer arrangement that increases the surface area in contact with the Lever Idler Shaft, there should be less deformation of the Lever Idler Shaft and therefore less need to back the Bolt out as far before retightening.  There has been discussion on the list before about how many turns out before retightening.  I was able to turn the new Bolt, Idler Adjuster out nine turns before it came out of the threaded recess it screws into.  So it seems to me that there is more risk in not turning it out enough to allow the spring to make the adjustment than turning it out so far the washer drops off.  Or, am I missing something?  BTW, what the Bolt, Idler Adjustment does is act as lock to keep the Lever Idle Shaft in the same position between adjustments.  Then, when you loosen the Bolt, Idler Adjustment, the Spring can do its work in resetting the position of the Lever Idle Shaft and thus the tension of the Balancer Chain.

 

At least on the older models like mine, there is a little gotcha in all this:  The larger O.D. on the shoulder of the Bolt, Idler Adjuster (not to mention the ever bigger O.D. on the washer) will no longer allow the Bolt, Idler Adjuster to pass through the hole in the Magneto Cover.

 

Richard in Tucson

94 KLR650

86 VFR750

[Richard Ohnstad]

Steve, I apparently didn't make it clear, but what I was trying to say with "BTW, what the Bolt, Idler Adjustment does is act as lock to keep the Lever Idle Shaft in the same position between adjustments. Then, when you loosen the Bolt, Idler Adjustment, the Spring can do its work in resetting the position of the Lever Idle Shaft and thus the tension of the Balancer Chain.", is exactly your point about the spring's function. I see the spring as resetting the chain's tension or slack during the adjustment procedure and then after you tighten the adjuster bolt the spring just sits there and does no work at all. As to the wear as the result of the extra tension induced by the stronger spring, you could be right, but I would rather error on the side of too many adjustments rather than too few. Richard

> I think you misunderstand the function here. Once you tighten the > bolt, the spring is effectively out of the picture. It is only > responsible for picking up the slack when you loosen the bolt. So > although when you adjust the chain, it ought to get just a smidgen > tighter than with the old spring. To be honest, when you look at the > mechanical "disadvantage" between the spring and the actual "tension" > on the chain, the mechanism doesn't really tension the chain, it more > like adjusts the chain slack. Also, there is dead play between the > slotted plate and the shaft it sits on. I would really doubt that > there will be any significant change in wear between the old and new > mechanisms. If anything, because there is less chian slack, not > really more chain tension, it should last longer. > > Just my .o2 > > Steve A.

[Steve Anderson]

Sounds like we're on the same page. After finding a broken in four peices (I did find them all) plate with the slot in my '98 because it was broken, I'm paranoid enough to go ahead and pop the magneto cover off when I do the adjustment, just to make sure it goes ok, and that everything is cool in there. --- In DSN_klr650@egroups.com, "Richard Ohnstad" wrote:

> Steve, > > I apparently didn't make it clear, but what I was trying to say

with "BTW,

> what the Bolt, Idler Adjustment does is act as lock to keep the

Lever Idle

> Shaft in the same position between adjustments. Then, when you

loosen the

> Bolt, Idler Adjustment, the Spring can do its work in resetting the

position

> of the Lever Idle Shaft and thus the tension of the Balancer

Chain.", is

> exactly your point about the spring's function. I see the spring as > resetting the chain's tension or slack during the adjustment

procedure and

> then after you tighten the adjuster bolt the spring just sits there

and does

> no work at all. > > As to the wear as the result of the extra tension induced by the

stronger

> spring, you could be right, but I would rather error on the side of

too many

> adjustments rather than too few. > > Richard > > > I think you misunderstand the function here. Once you tighten the > > bolt, the spring is effectively out of the picture. It is only > > responsible for picking up the slack when you loosen the bolt. So > > although when you adjust the chain, it ought to get just a smidgen > > tighter than with the old spring. To be honest, when you look at

the

> > mechanical "disadvantage" between the spring and the

actual "tension"

> > on the chain, the mechanism doesn't really tension the chain, it

more

> > like adjusts the chain slack. Also, there is dead play between

the

> > slotted plate and the shaft it sits on. I would really doubt that > > there will be any significant change in wear between the old and

new

> > mechanisms. If anything, because there is less chian slack, not > > really more chain tension, it should last longer. > > > > Just my .o2 > > > > Steve A.

[Bogdan Swider]

> Sounds like we're on the same page. > > After finding a broken in four peices (I did find them all) plate > with the slot in my '98 because it was broken, I'm paranoid enough to > go ahead and pop the magneto cover off when I do the adjustment, just > to make sure it goes ok, and that everything is cool in there. >

We shouldn't have to live like this. Bogdan

[Richard Ohnstad]

> Sounds like we're on the same page. > > After finding a broken in four peices (I did find them all) plate > with the slot in my '98 because it was broken, I'm paranoid enough to > go ahead and pop the magneto cover off when I do the adjustment, just > to make sure it goes ok, and that everything is cool in there.

Steve, That's a good point. After looking at mine more closely this morning, I think I understand the risk of turning the Bolt, Idler Adjustment out too far - there is nothing restraining the Lever Idler Shaft from falling off the end of the Idle-Shaft or binding on it. I've pretty well made up my mind to either level the whole bike on a milk carton, or lean the whole bike as far to the right as it normally leans to the left while on the kickstand, before I loosen and retighten the Bolt, Idler Adjustment. Richard

[Bogdan Swider]

> ---------- > From: Richard Ohnstad > , just > > to make sure it goes ok, and that everything is cool in there. > > Steve, > > That's a good point. After looking at mine more closely this morning, I > think I understand the risk of turning the Bolt, Idler Adjustment out too > far - there is nothing restraining the Lever Idler Shaft from falling off > the end of the Idle-Shaft or binding on it. I've pretty well made up my > mind to either level the whole bike on a milk carton, or lean the whole > bike > as far to the right as it normally leans to the left while on the > kickstand, > before I loosen and retighten the Bolt, Idler Adjustment. > > Richard >

That's why Elden recommends turning it out only 3/4 turn with the engine hot. Bogdan

[Juan Carlos Ibarra]

That's why Elden recommends turning it out only 3/4 turn with the

> engine hot. Bogdan >

I've been in there too, and I believe in all honesty that it takes a LOT more than 3/4 of a turn to even come close to loosing that bolt. AMOF I believe you have to go at least a turn and a half to be absolutely certain the mechanism is loose enough. Another consideration is to be sure not to overtighten said bolt because in old versions this will permanently deform the piece it holds in place. Living in Mexico makes the part getting chore a challenge, so what I did to "upgrade" this mechanism was to cut the spring by half a turn (to make it a bit tighter), took the bolt to a machinist and had him trim the part of it that contacts the swiveling part by the exact thickness of a washer that I put in as well (English can be a challenge, I hope this paragraph made sense!) No complaints so far.

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[David Svoboda]

> From: "D.J. Rogers" > Subject: > > Hey, > > There is a device out there that you can probably find at > farm supply > stores, some automotive parts places or small engine > shops. It is a > heater attached to a large magnet that you just stick to > any ferrous > metal engine block. No, I'm not kidding, it really does > exist.

When I lived in Iowa and rode my old KZ in the winter, I used synthetic oil, brought the battery in the house if they forcasted below-zero nights, and if it still turned over slow in the morning, I'd light up a hibachi and put it under the oil-pan for a while. For cold weather riding, I bought a set of insulated work overalls from Sears. Then protective jacket over that, and snomobile gloves and boots. I used a Plexi-fairing to keep some of the wind off. Thank G*d I don't worry about that any more. -- Dave Svoboda, Sandy Eggo