Sometimes I just sit and look at my bike trying to think of some
way to improve things. Here's my latest:
I took a 1/4" aluminum base plate from an old AT&T System 75
console, cut out a nice shape for a rear master cylinder guard that
would cover from the hose at the top to the adjustment nuts at the
bottom, shaped with a couple of rounded places in the front for the
bolts, finished the edges with a file and sandpaper, cut two shims
from the corners of the aluminum plate, used the old washers from the
plastic bash plate for master cylinder alignment since the bolt
shoulders are now in the new guard and it looks like some kind of a
factory guard!!! The color even perfectly matches the frame.
I also cut off a length of the aluminum shaft of an old Stihl
weed-whacker, drove two grips from a junk tiller onto the ends and
used two hose clamps to mount it to the front/top of the Moose plate.
This all sounds hokey as all getout but it really looks nice. The
aluminum of both pieces perfectly matches the frame.
Ron-A15-in-MO
got it and thankyou / nklr
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: Thu Oct 29, 2009 7:23 am
el-cheapo mc guard and highway pegs
If it works for you that's all that really matters. Here's an idea I
came up w/ and maybe others have: I used some aluminum sheet (
scrounged from some previous use) to form a "glove box" just above
the
headlight. I'm not looking at the bike now and it's been a while, but
I'm pretty sure there are 2 screws there for the head light that I
used to mount it. I would take a piece of cereal box cardboard to
make
a pattern first. Mine has a curved top and sides maybe 1 1/4 inches,
You have to curve the bottom edge also to go over headlight wire
cable. It works great for many things and is designed not to get in
the way when
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- Posts: 62
- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 11:33 am
got it and thankyou / nklr
Conall's advice about taking off the caliper first is right on. I know
better than to pump the hydraulics when the rotor is out so I'm not sure
what happened here. However, I took the caliper apart (again) and made sure
the piston was fully retracted. (caliper float mechanism is perfectly smooth
to either extreme)
I think I felt you all looking over my shoulder and working just the
precise magic I needed to make everything work perfectly and that's what
it's doing now. I feel much better. This isn't rocket science, no, but I
had to work through it in stages. Thankyou Conall, Kurt, LPetty, Fred and
to Dennis Angus for the piston retraction suggestion. Good having you guys
around.
eric
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