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[klr6501995]

Where do I find these 8 point sockets ?

> An option for checking a used torque wrench might be to use a square,

8

> point or 12 point socket which will fit the drive end of the wrenches.

[Jeff Saline]

On Sat, 25 Mar 2006 20:40:13 -0000 "klr6501995" writes:

> Where do I find these 8 point sockets ? > > > > > An option for checking a used torque wrench might be to use a > square, > 8 > > point or 12 point socket which will fit the drive end of the > wrenches. >>>>>>><>

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klr6501995, You can use 12 point sockets as they will fit 4, 6, 8 and 12 point fasteners. If the chrome is heavy they might not fit the drive stub as they usually have sharp corners and will jam on the chrome in the socket. I had this problem this afternoon (see below). If you really want some 8 point sockets you can probably get them at Sears and most well stocked stores with a mechanic type section. I played with my torque wrenches this afternoon for a few minutes to see how Norm's suggestion works. It was pretty cool! I used a 3/8" drive 15mm 12 point socket to hook the small foot pound torque wrench to the larger foot pound torque wrench. The 15mm 12 point socket slipped right on the 1/2" drive stub. I tried to get an 11mm socket to slip on a 3/8" drive stub but it was just too tight of a fit. And 12mm was too loose. What I'm gonna do is stop at a pawn shop and get a few sockets. Some 3/8" drive and some 1/2" drive. I'll want to get different sizes like 10mm and 15mm so the smaller socket will slip into the larger socket with the drive portions to the outside. Then I'll weld them together so I have a few adapters. One will be 3/8" to 3/8", one will be 3/8" to 1/2" and one will be 1/2" to 1/2". Then I can compare all my torque wrenches when I want. Oh, I'm gonna consider putting a collar in the middle of each adapter with a leg off it that I can clamp in a vise. It was pretty tough to apply 70 ft lbs of torque with the married end of the torque wrenches flopping around. The two I checked today were within 1/2 foot pound of each other at 25 foot pounds. At 50 foot pounds one was 1 foot pound light. At 70 foot pounds one was 3 foot pounds lighter than the other. But all that really tells me is my torque wrenches are pretty close to the same readings. They both are suppose to be accurate to within 3 percent. So if one's high and the other is low it'll be as bad as it can get. : ) Maybe I'll have to test mine with a few of the ones at school that are calibrated each year. Or maybe I'll figure out which 2nd year student has the Snap On Digital Torque Wrench he bought for about $350. I think last year he told me list was about $700. That would be a pretty cool comparison. Norm, Thanks again for this idea. I sure like it. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Norm Keller]

Jeff, the torque wrench calibration check was the worse post I've read from you. So this isn't misunderstood, I mean that as a compliment! While slightly off, it was still reasonably accurate and, if the person doing it thinks a bit, would give a reasonable result. If I could manage that level as my worst performance....wow would that be an improvement! An option for checking a used torque wrench might be to use a square, 8 point or 12 point socket which will fit the drive end of the wrenches. The two can be set and compared by trial and error until they both click together. This will give a pretty good indication. I do this for customers frequently, always using a new premium quality torque wrench (Mac in my case). Any professional tool dealer can send a torque wrench for calibration which IMO is the best for any sort of critical (and what else are you using a torque wrench...) application. Buying a used wrench of less than premium quality is IMO, poor economy since a new, calibrated one of medium or premium quality can be similarly priced if the cost of repair/re-calibration is included. Simply having a torque wrench is useless unless it is accurate. Norm --------------------------------- Blab-away for as little as 1 /min. Make PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Darrel Kuhse]

Happy New Year.  I'm a returning lister looking to see who might have a couple KLR tools for rent or loan.  I'm changing out my fork seals on my A12, and need Kawasaki PNs: 57001-183 (handle) & 57001-1057 (adapter).   Thanks, [i]Darrel[/i] [i]Oxnard, Calif.[/i]

[Walter Mitty]

If that is the tool I am thinking about you can make it from alltread and a couple of nuts (15/16" wrench size).

--- On [b]Fri, 1/1/10, Darrel Kuhse [i][/i][/b] wrote: From: Darrel Kuhse Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Tools To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, January 1, 2010, 12:55 PM   Happy New Year.  I'm a returning lister looking to see who might have a couple KLR tools for rent or loan.  I'm changing out my fork seals on my A12, and need Kawasaki PNs: 57001-183 (handle) & 57001-1057 (adapter).   Thanks, [i]Darrel[/i] [i]Oxnard, Calif.[/i]

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools If that's the tool Walter is talking about, you can just use an impact wrench instead. BTW, if you're just replacing seals, you do not have to disassemble the forks. Mark At 1:01 PM -0800 1/1/10, Walter Mitty wrote: If that is the tool I am thinking about you can make it from alltread and a couple of nuts (15/16" wrench size).

--- On Fri, 1/1/10, Darrel Kuhse wrote:

From: Darrel Kuhse Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Tools To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, January 1, 2010, 12:55 PM   Happy New Year.  I'm a returning lister looking to see who might have a couple KLR tools for rent or loan.  I'm changing out my fork seals on my A12, and need Kawasaki PNs: 57001-183 (handle) & 57001-1057 (adapter).

[dooden]

I used 1 1/4" 4 way PVC fitting to seat the seals, never removed the springs. I drained and flushed tubes and hung upside down over a drain bucket to ensure they got drained of all OEM fish oil. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Darrel Kuhse wrote: > > Happy New Year. I'm a returning lister looking to see who might have a couple KLR tools for rent or loan. I'm changing out my fork seals on my A12, and need Kawasaki PNs: 57001-183 (handle) & 57001-1057 (adapter). > > Thanks, > Darrel > Oxnard, Calif. >

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

Remove the snap ring, clean all debris out of there, flood area with Liquid Wrench or equivalent, add 100-120 psi to the valve at the top of the fork. The seals will either immediately or eventually pop out.  I've done this to about 6-8 sets of forks on KLRs.

Mark

At 11:03 AM -0800 1/2/10, Darrel Kuhse wrote:

I've replaced fork seals on other bikes, but this bike is different.  To preclude seperating the inner and outer forks, I would drill a small hole in the oil seal, partially insert a sheet metal screw and pull out.  This outer fork is too spindley and the seal too narrow to get a good angle with the drill or dremel and runs the risk of marring the upper fork.  If I use an impact wrench to remove the bolts, I would think that I'd still need the special tool to properly torque upon reassembly.

 

Does anyone have the specifics on the homespun tool?  Thanks, Darrel A12

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote:

> > Remove the snap ring, clean all debris out of there, flood area with > Liquid Wrench or equivalent, add 100-120 psi to the valve at the top > of the fork. The seals will either immediately or eventually pop out. > I've done this to about 6-8 sets of forks on KLRs. > > Mark >

Hey Mark, You going to tell him to cover up the seal with a rag (before applying air) or do you want me to do it? Perhaps eye protection would also be in order. smile. revmaaatin.

[Thomas Komjathy]

Don't tell him that Mark, tell him to video the process and put it on the list when he is done. We'll know it's him, he's the guy with the pirate patch on his eye. LOL!! [b]From:[/b] revmaaatin [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Sat, January 2, 2010 10:04:09 PM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tools  

--- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote: > > Remove the snap ring, clean all debris out of there, flood area with > Liquid Wrench or equivalent, add 100-120 psi to the valve at the top > of the fork. The seals will either immediately or eventually pop out. > I've done this to about 6-8 sets of forks on KLRs. > > Mark > Hey Mark, You going to tell him to cover up the seal with a rag (before applying air) or do you want me to do it? Perhaps eye protection would also be in order. smile. revmaaatin.