pilot screw / idle mixture screw????????

[Doug Pippin]

Pat Good explanation on braking. I learned to brake on the slippery sand in Northern Michigan. So once you master all of this great braking technique why not install a better brake and you'll have a lot more brake to work with and be safer both on and off road. You can't have too much brake. You can use too much brake if you're not experienced. I installed the big rotor on my KLR and it's likely the most effective modification I've made to the bike. Stops much better whether I'm on the road or riding in the woods. Doug IN NC. At 01:40 PM 9/4/04, you wrote:

> Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 10:16:59 EDT > From: kdxkawboy@... >Subject: Re: Front Brakes > >In a message dated 2004-09-03 5:11:14 AM Pacific Daylight Time, >mike21b@... writes: > > > One of the highly recommended mods for our KLRs is to improve the front > brake. > > I can lock up the front wheel on my A18 on the street. It does require > a healthy squeeze. I'm wondering if Kawasaki improved that recently. The > KLR's braking seems linear and adequate. Not great, just OK. But I don't > see the need to improve it - yet. > > Not a big guy, I'm only 168 pounds - maybe that makes a difference...? > > Mike > >Putting on a steel brake line improves the linear feel and makes it easier >to get all the braking the KLR has to offer, which has been good enough >for me as well. The biggest problem with the KLR is just the simple fact >it has a tall, skinny front tire that doesn't have the same stopping grip >as the smaller, fatter tires typically found on street bikes, but then >that same tall skinny tire is what works so much better for braking when >you get in the dirt because instead of floating on the surface like the >smaller, fatter tires, the skinny 21" wants to knife into the dirt. > >One of the things with a KLR, and its longer travel suspension, is to get >maximum braking on the street you need to master the use of the rear >brake. By making sure you crank in the rear you can get the rear >suspension to squat, pulling back some of the weight off the front wheel, >allowing the forks to extend a bit more, balancing the bikes weight a bit >better and giving the front wheel more braking power to be applied. > >My own feeling about learning good braking skills, especially since all of >you have a dirt bike, is to forgo the parking lot practice and head for an >empty, straight section of dirt road. Start out practicing low speed, 2nd >gear stops. Get comfortable with the fact that despite what the expects >say, you can control a bike with both wheels skidding to a stop. The only >trick is you have to get you butt out of the saddle and stand up so it >becomes easy to keep the bike balanced in a straight line - as long as the >front wheel keeps pointing straight it won't high side you. > >With time you will get very comfortable with braking either wheel right up >to the point of skidding and you will develop a touch for keeping the >brakes just short of this point. It will also build in the habit of always >using the rear brake when you go grab the front. Once you have developed >the motor skills such that you are judging your braking by what you feel >at the wheels and starting to instinctively adjust your braking pressure >to meet the needs then go back to the parking lot. In short order I think >you'll notice a big improvement in your stopping distances. > >Since we all seem to get focused on being able to brake quickly in a panic >stop, there is something else to consider in a panic situation. An >experienced rider can swerve a bike to avoid an obstacle in less distance >than it takes to brake. Part of the purpose of spending the practice time >in the dirt is to help get you to the point where it takes such little >mental effort to control the brakes that you have the mental capacity to >drink in and process all the other data, such as the ability to spot a >hole that you could swerve into to avoid a collision. > >Pat >G'ville, Nv

---------- Doug Pippin 828-684-8488 dpippin5@... ---------- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Kathi Clark]

At 155, I am also able to lock up the front wheel, no problem. Kathi A18 Mike Frey wrote: One of the highly recommended mods for our KLRs is to improve the front brake. I can lock up the front wheel on my A18 on the street. It does require a healthy squeeze. I'm wondering if Kawasaki improved that recently. The KLR's braking seems linear and adequate. Not great, just OK. But I don't see the need to improve it - yet. Not a big guy, I'm only 168 pounds - maybe that makes a difference...? Mike List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Yahoo! Groups Links --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[squasher_1]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Kathi Clark wrote:

> At 155, I am also able to lock up the front wheel, no problem. > > Kathi > A18 > >

I can't get the my bike past 130 mph. but I can still do a stoppie at that speed. 8^)

[JRC]

> did someone find a "LOW COST" finger adjust pilot screw for our

CVK40. Because the pilot screw is a "set it and leave it alone" kind of thing, there isn't a real need for the aftermarket screw. The pilot screw can be accessed by loosening and rotating the carb; so carb removal isn't required to change the pilot mixture.