klr650 with zx10 motor

[Mike Atkinson]

It could be the left cover is cracked. I had a similar problem with my right side (clutch cover) and was able to get a replacement from a member of this group. It was a simple matter of removing bolts and ensuring the gasket was viable and putting some gasket sealer on and bolting the new (used) cover back on and I was back on the streets. You just have to look hard and carefully for any cracks to see exactly which part might be the problem. Muddy Shoe Mike - Casper, Wyo

[transalp 1]

If the oil leak is hard to identify, get a can or two of spray brake cleaner and get as much oil off the engine as possible. Once clean & dry, spray some $1 store aerosol foot powder on the suspected areas. It's mainly talc, won't hurt a thing and will wash off. But, it will make an oil leak stand out. eddie

> [Original Message] > From: Mike Atkinson > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Date: 1/6/2010 3:29:59 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] OIl > > It could be the left cover is cracked. I had a similar problem with my

right side (clutch cover) and was able to get a replacement from a member of this group. It was a simple matter of removing bolts and ensuring the gasket was viable and putting some gasket sealer on and bolting the new (used) cover back on and I was back on the streets. You just have to look hard and carefully for any cracks to see exactly which part might be the problem.

> Muddy Shoe Mike - Casper, Wyo > >

[Jeffrey]

KLR650 stock HP 34 and 31 ft/lbs of torque ZX-10 stock HP 160(easily bumped up to over 200 on newer versions of the ZX-10R) and 84 ft/lbs of torque there is an engine on the auction site for approx $3000 if you want to do this upgrade. J#3

[clifpayne92115]

Back to an old topic --now new__Can I use the current Rotella full synthetic --now 5-40--in my KLRs..The recent article in MCN says NO OK I'm still too cheap to pay $8 a quart for Motorcycle specific oil

[Jeff Khoury]

I've used Rotella T6 and it works just fine. It's JASO MA certified for wet clutch motorcycles, and I've used it both in my KLR and in my V-Strom. I have noticed that it makes the clutch a little "grabby" and it's hard to find neutral sometimes, but there's no reason not to use it. If you use the Mobil 1 version of the same thing (their Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40), it makes shifting a bit easier.

----- Original Message ----- From: "clifpayne92115" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 7:56:09 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] oil Back to an old topic --now new__Can I use the current Rotella full synthetic --now 5-40--in my KLRs..The recent article in MCN says NO OK I'm still too cheap to pay $8 a quart for Motorcycle specific oil

[Jeff Khoury]

Also, if you want a good oil and aren't married to synthetic, you could use Mobil Delvac 15w-40. It has a very similar additive package to Mobil 1 in a mineral base. It's what I use when I'm feeling cheap, and the tranny shifts like buttah. If you're changing every 3,000 miles or so it doesn't really matter if you use synth or not.

----- Original Message ----- From: "clifpayne92115" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 7:56:09 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] oil Back to an old topic --now new__Can I use the current Rotella full synthetic --now 5-40--in my KLRs..The recent article in MCN says NO OK I'm still too cheap to pay $8 a quart for Motorcycle specific oil

[James W. Flower]

I started Rotella T6 a couple of months ago. After a couple hundred miles, finding neutral got harder sometimes. Also, when I leave the bike parked in first, then put it in neutral before starting it, it eventually goes into neutral but the neutral light doesn't come on. It comes on after I start up. I don't see how the oil can cause this, but then oil is a Great and Abiding Mystery to me. Rotella 6 is one of the few recommended oils I can get easily here on the True Northern California Coast. -JWF

[Jeff Khoury]

I don't see how it could affect the neutral light, but as I said in an earlier post I had the same observation about finding neutral. Mobil 1 "Turbodiesel Truck" 5w-40 does not exhibit this behaviour. I wouldn't worry too much about "recommendations". I know we all get passionate about our choices but seriously... if you change your oil regularly almost any oil will do, just stay away from the 20w-50s, they're too thick especially when it's cold. You can safely use 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 or 15w-40 oil of any type as long as it doesn't say "energy conserving" on the API seal. This includes most "car oils" and "diesel truck/semi oils". I'm currently trying out Mobil Delvac and I like the transmission feel. Since I change every 3,000 miles the consensus (among bikers and the oil experts that I know) is that synthetic is optional at those change intervals. If you choose to go extended drain, then synth would be worth looking at. I've always used full synth in my bikes since its introduction and before that I always used diesel truck oil, for a variety of esoteric technical reasons. But, as most people say as long as you change it on schedule and keep it topped off it really doesn't matter much what you put in there.

----- Original Message ----- From: "James W. Flower" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 12:30:04 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil I started Rotella T6 a couple of months ago. After a couple hundred miles, finding neutral got harder sometimes. Also, when I leave the bike parked in first, then put it in neutral before starting it, it eventually goes into neutral but the neutral light doesn't come on. It comes on after I start up. I don't see how the oil can cause this, but then oil is a Great and Abiding Mystery to me. Rotella 6 is one of the few recommended oils I can get easily here on the True Northern California Coast. -JWF

[James W. Flower]

More wise words from Mr. K. I just got a deal on a truckload of outdated suntan lotion on eBay....

On Oct 10, 2011, at 1:12 PM, Jeff Khoury wrote: > I don't see how it could affect the neutral light, but as I said in an earlier post I had the same observation about finding neutral. Mobil 1 "Turbodiesel Truck" 5w-40 does not exhibit this behaviour. > > I wouldn't worry too much about "recommendations". I know we all get passionate about our choices but seriously... if you change your oil regularly almost any oil will do, just stay away from the 20w-50s, they're too thick especially when it's cold. > > You can safely use 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 or 15w-40 oil of any type as long as it doesn't say "energy conserving" on the API seal. This includes most "car oils" and "diesel truck/semi oils". I'm currently trying out Mobil Delvac and I like the transmission feel. Since I change every 3,000 miles the consensus (among bikers and the oil experts that I know) is that synthetic is optional at those change intervals. If you choose to go extended drain, then synth would be worth looking at. I've always used full synth in my bikes since its introduction and before that I always used diesel truck oil, for a variety of esoteric technical reasons. But, as most people say as long as you change it on schedule and keep it topped off it really doesn't matter much what you put in there. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "James W. Flower" > To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 12:30:04 PM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil > > > > > > > I started Rotella T6 a couple of months ago. After a couple hundred miles, finding neutral got harder sometimes. Also, when I leave the bike parked in first, then put it in neutral before starting it, it eventually goes into neutral but the neutral light doesn't come on. It comes on after I start up. I don't see how the oil can cause this, but then oil is a Great and Abiding Mystery to me. Rotella 6 is one of the few recommended oils I can get easily here on the True Northern California Coast. -JWF > > >

[Mike Frey]

I'm now using Rotella T6 5W40 in everything I have with an engine. Bikes, Cars, Truck, even the lawn mower. Oil is good. Not having oil = bad. As far as "feel", I can't tell the difference while riding if the bike has Mobil 1, Rotella T, or Rotella T6 in it. Those three are pretty much all I've used in the past 5 years or so. Mike

> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "clifpayne92115" > > To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 7:56:09 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] oil > > Back to an old topic --now new__Can I use the current Rotella full > synthetic --now 5-40--in my KLRs..The recent article in MCN says NO OK > I'm still too cheap to pay $8 a quart for Motorcycle specific oil > >