grrrrrr

[Andrus Chesley]

BlankI just turned mine out with the bike hot and running till it quit gaining RPM. Don't really know where it's at. But stock it was less than 1/2 a turn. Bike carburates a lot better in low rpm range and starts easier. Had played with this on my Ex DR350 where I shimmed the needle first. My fuel milage was down from that a bit. Later I got and adjustable t-handled pilot jet and installed it. Then after awhile went back in and took the washer out of the carb for shimming the needle. Bike still did a good job on lower rpm, starting and got some of my fuel milage back. Too bad someone isn't making a t-adjuster for the KLR650. Andy Chesley Jennings, La. KLR650 R1150GS [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Mark St.Hilaire, Sr]

> Too bad someone isn't making a t-adjuster for the KLR650.

I haven't ordered one because carbs and I have a proven history of not getting along well together, but I think that Jake Jakeman sells that: jake_sagebrush@... or http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/sagebrush_machine_shop.html Wise men still seek Him... Mark St.Hilaire, Sr A15 HomePage: http://home.adelphia.net/~msaint/index.html KLR650 Pages: http://klr6500.tripod.com/ Valve Check & Adjustment Guide: http://klr6500.tripod.com/valves.html

[Ted Palmer]

Andrus Chesley wrote:

> BlankI just turned mine out with the bike hot and running till it quit gaining RPM.

[...] This is what I would recommend. Set the idle mix to what the bike likes, which is not necessarily the same as someone else's bike. Backing out the pilot screw will generally raise the revs up to a "plateau" where turning the screw out more does not noticably change the revs. If you turn the screw out past this plateau then richening the mix only makes the idle slower and slower. You can set the idle mix at the rich or lean end of the plateau, you don't need to be super precise, but I generally aim for the middle or what was known in the car world as "best idle" i.e. set the mixture to the highest stable idle speed then reset the idle speed to spec with the idle speed adjuster screw. There are too many variables, like air temp and pressure and fuel temp, to get too fussy. Mister_T Melbourne Australia

[RM]

On Sat, 12 Jan 2002, Ted Palmer wrote:

>Backing out the pilot screw will generally raise the revs up to a >"plateau" where turning the screw out more does not noticably change the >revs. If you turn the screw out past this plateau then richening the mix >only makes the idle slower and slower.

Let me throw my $.02 in and say that the pilot screw seems to have an effect over a surprisingly wide range of RPM's and operating conditions. I've mentioned in the past that adjusting the pilot screw made my engine vibrate less and run cooler. Did I mention that it vibrates less and runs cooler at 3700rpm in top gear? Yes, that's about 50mph. Not normally what you'd consider to be pilot screw territory, eh? I'm going to guess that the mixture at this speed comes from a combination of main metering and the pilot circuit. I feel that setting the pilot screw for an overrich idle (ie making it deliver more fuel) allows the pilot circuit to contribute to a wider range of operating conditions. It's a sacrifice, in other words. The *right* way to set up the carb would be to shim/replace the needle. For someone (like me) who'd rather not open up the carb and tinker, backing out the pilot screw even further than "best idle" can help cover up some of the leanness of the main metering system. I saw this for myself when going from 2 to 2.5 turns out. I think it actually slowed the idle down a little, but it enhanced the driveability at 30-50mph. I think that an overrich idle is a worthwhile sacrifice and I'm leaving it there. RM

[Ted Palmer]

RM wrote: [...]

> Let me throw my $.02 in and say that the pilot screw seems to have an > effect over a surprisingly wide range of RPM's and operating conditions.

Yes, and the smaller the throttle opening the more affect it has. The CV piston position will infuence as well. [...]

> I'm going to guess that the mixture at this speed comes from a combination > of main metering and the pilot circuit.

Well, a combination of pilot system and needle system.

> I feel that setting the pilot screw for an overrich idle (ie making it > deliver more fuel) allows the pilot circuit to contribute to a wider range > of operating conditions. It's a sacrifice, in other words.

I would have said "compromise".

> The *right* way to set up the carb would be to shim/replace the needle.

And maybe the main jet. There is no guarantee that the Dynojet needle is any more suitable than the KLX needle. The Dynojet kit cannot anticipate every mod that we can make.

> For someone (like me) who'd rather not open up the carb and tinker, > backing out the pilot screw even further than "best idle" can help cover > up some of the leanness of the main metering system.

Fair enough.

> I saw this for myself when going from 2 to 2.5 turns out. I think it > actually slowed the idle down a little, but it enhanced the driveability > at 30-50mph. I think that an overrich idle is a worthwhile sacrifice and > I'm leaving it there.

Whatever. A carby is a whole bunch of compromises already. That is why I'm keeping an eye on an EFI system being developed in Australia for single cylinder dirt bikes. It would be great to have complete control over ignition timing and mixture, all set up on a dyno with a laptop. Mister_T Melbourne Australia

[Guest]

Drilled out the plug, wondering how many turns out most are running with stock jets and exhaust? Dave

[dooden]

2.5 is pretty much a common turn when setting something up. I am at 2 full turns out from bottom-out, set it there when I had the carb sideways, and tried it there before proceeding on, was pretty happy just like that, it did away with the lean surges I was getting, seemed to be a little happier until I put a Cobra pipe on the bike then she leaned out on me again.. Took the Cobra off, man that thing was loud. Then the cold weather came back, so just hav'nt experimented with it much. Seems I heard (ok read) that starting becomes easier after 2 turns out. I think this spring I will be drilling out the slide on mine, to increase throttle response, and maybe tinker more with the Pilot screw at that time. I really dont want to wonder too far from stock. I think Jake has a "how-to" on his website for hitting the sweet spot on your bike. The engine has to be running while adjusting, and he happens to make/sell a screwdriver made just for that, but with imagination you could come up with something. http://www.sagebrushmachine.com/pilottool.html Dooden Dooden --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "daveel2002 " wrote:

> Drilled out the plug, wondering how many turns out most are running > with stock jets and exhaust? > Dave

[Mark St.Hilaire, Sr]

> Drilled out the plug, wondering how many turns out most are running > with stock jets and exhaust?

Hi Dave, my bike seems quite happy at 2 turns out. The plug looks good, and there are no running issues whatsoever... Mark KLR650 Motorcycle Pages: http://klr6500.tripod.com/ HomePage: http://home.adelphia.net/~msaint/index.html My Adelphia Email can be "iffy." If you don't get a response, please try: KLR6500@...

[Jim]

Is there any consensus on the pilot screw in regards on how many turns out to go? I've seen reference to as little as 1 3/4 up to 3. It's a completely stock 98. I've been fiddling with mine trying to get things running a bit smoother but it's a chore since I can't get my pudgy hands in there without unhooking everything and spinning the carb. I started off at 2 1/4 and now I'm at 2 1/2. Turning the screw in makes things lean and out = richer, correct? Next rainy garage day I plan to take the tank off and inspect my plug to see just what is going on but was curious to get some list feedback as well. jim ps - tax check = new brake line (front), prog springs, skid plate, renthal bars, grips and a new couch for my wife

[Zachariah Mully]

On Tue, 2003-04-15 at 11:18, Jim wrote:

> Is there any consensus on the pilot screw in regards on how many turns > out to go? I've seen reference to as little as 1 3/4 up to 3. > > It's a completely stock 98. I've been fiddling with mine trying to get > things running a bit smoother but it's a chore since I can't get my > pudgy hands in there without unhooking everything and spinning the > carb. I started off at 2 1/4 and now I'm at 2 1/2. Turning the screw > in makes things lean and out = richer, correct? >

I had a chance to see the adjustable HD pilot screw in action this weekend on Richard Cullisons (sp?) KLR. It sounds like it's just what you need, on the end of the screw it has a large knurled nob that easy to reach. You could also get Jake's adjustment tool, which allows you to adjust the stock screw without having to rotate the carb. Z DC A5X A12X