On 5/20/2011 4:50 AM, Jim Fortner wrote: > > Ron, > > Seafoam isn't just for the fuel tank. I've used it in a mower crankcase to > release stuck valves. > > JF > > On Fri, May 20, 2011 at 6:13 AM, Ron Criswell > >wrote: > > > > > > > Speaking of all this, I have let my old Yamaha It sit up the last > few years > > but starting it occasionally but too occasional recently. The piston is > > stuck now and isn't moving when I try and start it. A friend says > pore some > > ATF down the spark plug hole and let it sit a bit. Any > suggestions???? Why > > is ATF always the magic cure for shade trees? > > > > Criswell > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > > > > On May 19, 2011, at 11:05 PM, "John Biccum" > > > wrote: > > > > > I've resurrected a few "barn-finds" with the following technique > > including a > > > Yamaha Radian that had sat for more than 5 years with stale gas > turning > > in > > > to varnish in its (four) carbs. The technique is not a magic > incantation > > > to cure varnished-clogged carbs but it's as close as we mere > mortals are > > > likely to get to sorcery J > > > > > > First, I'd add a full bottle of Seafoam(a pint?) to the gas tank then > > > agitate to mix the Seafoam with the fuel. I'd then run the bike > until the > > > gas in the carb has been replaced with the Seafoam-treated fuel. > I'd then > > > bid the bike a pleasant goodnight and offer it a sincere apology > for your > > > mistreatment of the past two years. After its overnight slumber > with the > > > Seafoam-treated fuel in the tank I'd take the bike out for a ride > and do > > > everything possible to keep the RPM up to burn maximum fuel. For > example, > > > highway speed riding in a sufficiently low gear to keep the RPMs > at 6500 > > or > > > so. > > > > > > I'd wager you a cool beverage that after 50 or so miles of high-RPM > > running > > > that the bike will have burned out the varnish in the carbs and > will be > > > close to being restored to "it's once AWESOME running condition". It's > > also > > > a safe bet that you will have contributed mightily to the abatement of > > the > > > mosquito population by operating a 650cc fogger during those 50 miles. > > The > > > physical law called The Conservation of Mass tells us that all that > > varnish > > > has to go somewhere. > > > > > > Then I'd take the bike home and give it a nice oil and filter > change to > > get > > > the contaminated oil out. Perhaps most importantly I'd solemnly > promise > > > your faithful steed that you will be more vigilant in changing the gas > > > frequently. Of course the best way to change the gas frequently is to > > ride > > > the bike until the tank needs refilling, refill the tank with > fresh fuel > > and > > > repeat J > > > > > > From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > ] On > > > Behalf Of Dennis > > > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2011 8:13 PM > > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] I'm back > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > I'm back after 3-4 years absence. I have a 2001 (A-15) KLR 650 > that has > > been > > > sitting idle in my garage for at least 2 years. I've drained the > tank and > > > replaced the gas with fresh gas and added a small amout of gumout > to the > > > fuel. I'm able get the bike started with the choke on at least half > > choke. > > > If I crack the throttle the engine dies immediately. If I crack it > for a > > > small bit, let off, and then crack it again, I can get the RPM's > up and > > am > > > able to hold the RPMs as high as I want... As soon as I let off, the > > engine > > > dies. If anyone has any ideas and can help me out, I would greatly > > > appreciate it. I have removed the air cleaner and sprayed carb > cleaner in > > > through the screen. What do I need to do to restore my bike to > it's once > > > AWESOME running condition??? > > > > > > Thanks for your assistance in advance. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > ~Dennis~ > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
handle bar width question
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- Posts: 697
- Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:32 am
i'm back
Break Free?
Kerosene?
WD-40?
Robert P. Wichert P.Eng LEED AP
+1 916 966 9060
FAX +1 916 966 9068
===============================================
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- Posts: 33
- Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 6:50 pm
handle bar width question
As I've tried to explain my backyard gate doesn't open in such a way that I can get a wider bar in. The gate opens to form a tunnel with the house as one wall and the gate itself as the other. So I need to reno the fence/gate to get a bike in the yard.
safe riding,
Vik Banerjee
threeohm@...
www.thelazyrando.com
On 2011-05-20, at 8:15 AM, chris kelty wrote: > I used to keep a motorcycle in my cellar. The door was not as wide as the handlebars. I would push the front wheel and one bar through door, and then turn and the bar and wheel so other grip could pass trough the door. It's not as simple as tape measuring the bars and the gate. Ask a KLR owner to visit you and try it or take a stick cut to the size of the bars and try to "walk" it though your gate >
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- Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:08 am
i'm back
The biggest problem I've run into on "barn bikes" are weak valve springs. If an engine sits for years with a valve open, the spring(s) on that cylinder will be weak and you'll have a couple of problems:
On (usually) one cylinder, you'll have a weak intake spring(s), causing backfires through the carb and rough idle. At higher RPM, this may or may not manifest itself as a loss of high-end horsepower and a burning of the valve over time.
You'll also probably have one (on a 4-cylinder bike) exhaust valve (set) weak as well. This will cause frequent detonations in the muffler. You'll notice that if you pull the exhaust and look at the ports, you'll see one that has excessive carbon compared to the others. This has the same long-term effect, you'll end up burning one exhaust valve if you run it like that.
Listen closely to the top-end for cam/valve clatter and replace the springs right away. While you're in there, check the valve clearance since you'll already have the valve cover off anyway.
-Jeff Khoury
From: "John Biccum"
To: "Dennis" , "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2011 9:05:01 PM
Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] I'm back
I've resurrected a few "barn-finds" with the following technique including a
Yamaha Radian that had sat for more than 5 years with stale gas turning in
to varnish in its (four) carbs. The technique is not a magic incantation
to cure varnished-clogged carbs but it's as close as we mere mortals are
likely to get to sorcery J
First, I'd add a full bottle of Seafoam(a pint?) to the gas tank then
agitate to mix the Seafoam with the fuel. I'd then run the bike until the
gas in the carb has been replaced with the Seafoam-treated fuel. I'd then
bid the bike a pleasant goodnight and offer it a sincere apology for your
mistreatment of the past two years. After its overnight slumber with the
Seafoam-treated fuel in the tank I'd take the bike out for a ride and do
everything possible to keep the RPM up to burn maximum fuel. For example,
highway speed riding in a sufficiently low gear to keep the RPMs at 6500 or
so.
I'd wager you a cool beverage that after 50 or so miles of high-RPM running
that the bike will have burned out the varnish in the carbs and will be
close to being restored to "it's once AWESOME running condition". It's also
a safe bet that you will have contributed mightily to the abatement of the
mosquito population by operating a 650cc fogger during those 50 miles. The
physical law called The Conservation of Mass tells us that all that varnish
has to go somewhere.
Then I'd take the bike home and give it a nice oil and filter change to get
the contaminated oil out. Perhaps most importantly I'd solemnly promise
your faithful steed that you will be more vigilant in changing the gas
frequently. Of course the best way to change the gas frequently is to ride
the bike until the tank needs refilling, refill the tank with fresh fuel and
repeat J
From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com ] On
Behalf Of Dennis
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2011 8:13 PM
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] I'm back
Hi All,
I'm back after 3-4 years absence. I have a 2001 (A-15) KLR 650 that has been
sitting idle in my garage for at least 2 years. I've drained the tank and
replaced the gas with fresh gas and added a small amout of gumout to the
fuel. I'm able get the bike started with the choke on at least half choke.
If I crack the throttle the engine dies immediately. If I crack it for a
small bit, let off, and then crack it again, I can get the RPM's up and am
able to hold the RPMs as high as I want... As soon as I let off, the engine
dies. If anyone has any ideas and can help me out, I would greatly
appreciate it. I have removed the air cleaner and sprayed carb cleaner in
through the screen. What do I need to do to restore my bike to it's once
AWESOME running condition???
Thanks for your assistance in advance.
Thanks,
~Dennis~
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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