dr200se for sale

[nhjim10]

Very true, *when properly oiled*. But at the slightest starvation of oil, you get metal to metal rubbing, and that means almost instant destruction. In comparison, ball and roller bearings can run dry for a period of time before damage is done. They need time to heat up, then gradual wear happens. The difference is seconds without oil will usually destroy an automotive engine, while one running true bearings can easily last minutes, maybe longer, with intermittent oil starvation. I worked 10 years in the bearing industry, and you'd be surprised at the extremes a bearing can survive in before total destruction occurs. Jim

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud" wrote: > > I gotta take issue with your characterization of automotive-type plain bearings as mere "bushings". As long as they get an ample supply of pressurized oil, they are capable of sustaining much higher loads than roller bearings, and last many times longer. Consider BMW, who built bikes with roller cranks and ball mains for years. They were considered paragons of durability, with a bottom end that could last as much as 40,000 miles without a rebuild. The plain bearing engines that succeeded them in 1969 with the introduction of the /5 could be expected to last three to ten times as long without renewing the bearings. If there is a roller-crank engine that can approach that, its going to be big, slow, heavy and underpowered for motorcycle use. >

[nhjim10]

I had time to play with the engine some more tonight, and its settled...I'll be doing the 685 kit, and it should be all I need. I pulled the left side cover off, and there was nothing stuck to the magnetized flywheel. The 'doo was still perfect (unrelated to the current issue, but worth noting...thanks partsmike, stock broke at 1k miles, Mike's is mint at 19k miles). There was no contamination or particles anywhere on the inside of the cover. I pulled the right side, and in the process, found very minor particles on the oil filter. The oil screen was perfectly clean. I checked the bearings that were visible with the cover off, and they look mint. There was absolutely no sludge inside the crankcase, it was very clean. It looked like it did when i had it apart at 1k miles. Because the insides are so clean, I'm not even going to flush the crankcase with anything. When I assemble it I'll run it for a short time then change the oil, then run it through the break-in, then most likely just continue using dino oil for the life of the bike. I change my oil often, even when i did use synthetic, so there is no real reason to use synthetic. Jim

[mark ward]

Hey all Thanks for all the tips on getting running after she stored it. (varnish) I oops, took it in to dealer, a seal in the carb wasn't seated right when I (oops) reassembled. (They, did the 2,500 mile tune-up go over also.) The bike is ready to sell, KKB list average $2,655.00 being fall (winter) I think she will take $2,100. (aprox 2500+- miles)instead of storing. or taking south, in her toy hauler, (Sunday, mon?) and selling it there. It tipped over in the garrage and the clutch knob broke off, and a smill dime size ding in the tank. (same fall) She just bought it last spring $3500. and rarely used it, (she toured alot on her 900star.) No low ball contacts, It's already about at trade in price.

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "nhjim10" wrote:

> > I had time to play with the engine some more tonight, and its settled...I'll be doing the 685 kit, and it should be all I need. I pulled the left side cover off, and there was nothing stuck to the magnetized flywheel. The 'doo was still perfect (unrelated to the current issue, but worth noting...thanks partsmike, stock broke at 1k miles, Mike's is mint at 19k miles). There was no contamination or particles anywhere on the inside of the cover. > > I pulled the right side, and in the process, found very minor particles on the oil filter. The oil screen was perfectly clean. I checked the bearings that were visible with the cover off, and they look mint. There was absolutely no sludge inside the crankcase, it was very clean. It looked like it did when i had it apart at 1k miles. > > Because the insides are so clean, I'm not even going to flush the crankcase with anything. When I assemble it I'll run it for a short time then change the oil, then run it through the break-in, then most likely just continue using dino oil for the life of the bike. I change my oil often, even when i did use synthetic, so there is no real reason to use synthetic. > > Jim >

Jim, Sounds like you take the first prize in: Taking the bike to its lower oil limits without damage--contest. The bearings are not the only thing that might have suffered from the loss of oil. While you have it torn down to this point, I think I would pull the five bolts on the clutch pac and mike the fiber plates and the springs and check the friction plates for warpage. Clymer suggest a THICK plate of glass if a surface plate is not available. Even if there is no damage to the friction or fiber plates, I would bet at your mileage, you will see that a new set of spring would be a worthy investment (while it is apart). Note the orientation of the metal plates as you take it apart. One side of the metal friction plate teeth are beveled. The Clymer manual (M474--page 146) I am looking at does not 'specify' which way they go--perhaps someone else can say that has a KHI manual handy; or at least pay attention when you take it apart. If you mike the springs, I would be curious to hear how the springs spec. revmaaatin.