gasoline leak

[Rodney Copeland]

My test drive with the Fusion paint amused me. After two weeks to really dry to a point it wouldn't take finger prints, and bug prints goin down the road, it turned out a month later to be as crisp as any paint I've used. I'll try acrylic enamel before I try that shtuff again, pretty sure. Least it will dry in a reasonable period of time. Good luck with it, Rod

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "my7kidsdad" wrote: > I'd like to convert my green sidecovers to satin or gloss black. I > hear that Fusion paint (for plastic) is adequate. Any suggestions on > brand of paint, and best way to prepare the raw surface for paint?

[Rick McCauley]

I converted a small room upstairs in our house to a TV room for the kids. The bathroom vent runs up through this room. It is PVC pipe 6 inches in diameter. I used Krylon Fusion paint on it to match colors in the room. That was a year and a half ago, and it still looks great. The only preperation I did was to clean the pipe, and let it dry. I have never used that paint for outdoors, but if you used a mild steel wool or scotch brite to scuff the side covers before painting, I would think it would be fine. Rick A17 my7kidsdad wrote: I'd like to convert my green sidecovers to satin or gloss black. I hear that Fusion paint (for plastic) is adequate. Any suggestions on brand of paint, and best way to prepare the raw surface for paint? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Bill Whalen]

I have just painted the side cover, front fender and radiator shrouds with Fusion spray paint. They seem to have taken the paint very well. I will give a report from time to time on how it is holding up. Bill "SandShark" 92 KLR-650 03 DL-1000 VStrom

[Mike Peplinski]

That's really strange. I painted the lowers on my BMW fairing , gloss black Fusion. It dried in a couple of hours and recoated like factory paint. The polpro box I painted dried ini less than an hour. This is semi gloss black. It is holding up very good. The climate is relatively high humidity, temps around 75. I can't imagine why yours took so long to dry. I'm not a paint expert but the whole trick to getting any paint to work is the primer. The primer is what binds the finish paint to the substrate. Acrylic enamal should work fine but you'll have to use the right primer. The Fusion stuff is self prining on plastics. It seems to etch and bind without an intermediary. I even touched up the black steel gas tank on my beemer. Black is notoriously hard to blend. It turned out "acceptable" but not great.

>From: "Rodney Copeland" >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Painting Plastic >Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 02:39:22 -0000 > >My test drive with the Fusion paint amused me. >After two weeks to really dry to a point it wouldn't take finger >prints, and bug prints goin down the road, it turned out a month later >to be as crisp as any paint I've used. >I'll try acrylic enamel before I try that shtuff again, pretty sure. >Least it will dry in a reasonable period of time. >Good luck with it, >Rod > > > > >--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "my7kidsdad" wrote: > > I'd like to convert my green sidecovers to satin or gloss black. I > > hear that Fusion paint (for plastic) is adequate. Any suggestions on > > brand of paint, and best way to prepare the raw surface for paint? > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

[Rick McCauley]

My experience was the same as Mike's. I painted the PVC pipe, then came up two hours later to recoat. Paint was perfectly dry Rick A17 Mike Peplinski wrote: That's really strange. I painted the lowers on my BMW fairing , gloss black Fusion. It dried in a couple of hours and recoated like factory paint. The polpro box I painted dried ini less than an hour. --------------------------------- Yahoo! for Good Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[tjtacke]

The difference is that PCV pipe is not as "oily" as some other plastics. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rick McCauley wrote:

> My experience was the same as Mike's. I painted the PVC pipe, then

came up two hours later to recoat. Paint was perfectly dry

> > Rick A17 > > Mike Peplinski wrote: > That's really strange. I painted the lowers on my BMW fairing ,

gloss black

> Fusion. It dried in a couple of hours and recoated like factory

paint. The

> polpro box I painted dried ini less than an hour. > > --------------------------------- > Yahoo! for Good > Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[klr6501995]

The glues glue. Bulldog adhesion promotor in the rattle can. Buy at Pepboys. I painted my 95 barbie flat black. On some parts I used used black bumper trim sold in rattle can. On other sections I used HardHat enamel bought from Grainger. Can't see th difference, even w/ close inspection. first rough sand the plastic clean w/ soap and hot water and apply Bulldog. Let it dry till tacky/dry and spray w/ enamel. Wet sand after and redo above. I did maybe 4-7 coats. Had plenty of time on my hands then. Temps were like 50deg F. Enamel resisted gasoline real good in a couple of days, the bumper trim to almost a month. FWIW I use the empty stock toolkit section as my tool holder and nuts and bolts during mainteance. Holds keys everyday. very little evidence of the original puke green. Total maybe 6 rattle cans. I did notice a weight, handling difference on first couple of rides and I wasn't predisposed to this thought like we are when we make HP mods to our bike. I also used the Bulldog to make adheasive backed velcro stick to my seat and fender. Easy access ! blah blah blah.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Rodney Copeland" wrote: > My test drive with the Fusion paint amused me. > After two weeks to really dry to a point it wouldn't take finger > prints, and bug prints goin down the road, it turned out a month later > to be as crisp as any paint I've used. > I'll try acrylic enamel before I try that shtuff again, pretty sure. > Least it will dry in a reasonable period of time. > Good luck with it, > Rod > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "my7kidsdad" wrote: > > I'd like to convert my green sidecovers to satin or gloss black. I > > hear that Fusion paint (for plastic) is adequate. Any suggestions on > > brand of paint, and best way to prepare the raw surface for paint?

[Rick McCauley]

Interesting fact, but Mike's BMW plastic was also dry in 2 hours. Rick A17 tjtacke wrote: The difference is that PCV pipe is not as "oily" as some other plastics. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rick McCauley wrote: My experience was the same as Mike's. I painted the PVC pipe, then came up two hours later to recoat. Paint was perfectly dry Rick A17 Mike Peplinski wrote: That's really strange. I painted the lowers on my BMW fairing , gloss black Fusion. It dried in a couple of hours and recoated like factory paint. The polpro box I painted dried ini less than an hour. --------------------------------- Yahoo! for Good Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Chromatech1]

> I'd like to convert my green sidecovers to satin or

gloss black. I

> hear that Fusion paint (for plastic) is adequate.

Any suggestions on

> brand of paint, and best way to prepare the raw

surface for paint? *As an automotive painter, I can suggest two "industry correct" ways. The first and the easiest way to paint plastics would be to scrub/scuff with a new red 3M scotch brite and ajax/comet, wash clean with soap and water, wax and grease remove, blow, tack, apply a high quality clear plastic primer (PPG, Dupont, etc..). For durability, only use a catalyzed color systems; base coat-clear or 2k. Flattener can be added for desired gloss at the paint store. Assuming you have a 1.4 or less on your spray gun tip, apply paint as thin as possible (less is best) and If you want to add flex agent, it wouldn't hurt but, a high quality paint product will do just fine without. I wouldn't compromise all that work with cheap paint. Second way to paint stubborn plastic: Sand parts thoroughly with 180 grit, hit missed places with red scotch brite pad, wax and grease clean and then prime with 2k primer w/ flex add. After primer is dry, guide coat, sand with 320-400 grit dry or, 500-600 grit wet and then follow the procedures above. This bumper procedure is old school pealing prevention. This had to be done back in the day because plastic bumpers used to be hell to paint.. Rip it - prime the piss out of it and sand it smooth..It's a lot of work! **Remember, paint with clean compressor air! John Schwartz Owner and Operator of : CHROMATECH - 1 Mobile Refinishing Service http://profiles.yahoo.com/chromatech1 __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com

[Arden Kysely]

I'll vouch for Bulldog. I used it to re-paint the little hub caps on my T100. Took off all the paint with a soap, water, and a scrubby, applied Bulldog, then primer, then silver paint--all from spray cans. Looks great and has held up for a year so far, except where the dweebs at the tire shop took off the wheels without removing the caps first. __Arden

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klr6501995" wrote: > The glues glue. > Bulldog adhesion promotor in the rattle can. Buy at Pepboys. I painted > my 95 barbie flat black. > On some parts I used used black bumper trim sold in rattle can. > On other sections I used HardHat enamel bought from Grainger. Can't see > th difference, even w/ close inspection. > > first rough sand the plastic clean w/ soap and hot water and apply > Bulldog. Let it dry till tacky/dry and spray w/ enamel. > Wet sand after and redo above. I did maybe 4-7 coats. Had plenty of > time on my hands then. Temps were like 50deg F. > > Enamel resisted gasoline real good in a couple of days, the bumper trim > to almost a month. > > FWIW I use the empty stock toolkit section as my tool holder and nuts > and bolts during mainteance. Holds keys everyday. very little evidence > of the original puke green. > > Total maybe 6 rattle cans. I did notice a weight, handling difference > on first couple of rides and I wasn't predisposed to this thought like > we are when we make HP mods to our bike. > > I also used the Bulldog to make adheasive backed velcro stick to my > seat and fender. Easy access ! > blah blah blah. > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Rodney Copeland" wrote: > > My test drive with the Fusion paint amused me. > > After two weeks to really dry to a point it wouldn't take finger > > prints, and bug prints goin down the road, it turned out a month > later > > to be as crisp as any paint I've used. > > I'll try acrylic enamel before I try that shtuff again, pretty sure. > > Least it will dry in a reasonable period of time. > > Good luck with it, > > Rod > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "my7kidsdad" > wrote: > > > I'd like to convert my green sidecovers to satin or gloss black. I > > > hear that Fusion paint (for plastic) is adequate. Any suggestions > on > > > brand of paint, and best way to prepare the raw surface for paint?