aftermarket plastics

[Jeff Saline]

Randy, The list sends me mail in an on again off again fashion too. For motorcycle tanks my preference is using POR-15. You can check it out at www.por-15.com . To see the cycle tank repair kit try http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=306 . The tanks I've done were striped of paint on the outside and liner on the inside so I wasn't worried about getting any of the chemicals on a painted surface. I did a quick test about 5 years ago to see how bad I'd screw up the paint on a tank if the chemicals even touched the paint. I had a wet rag in one hand and was ready to wipe the chemicals off the paint. I dropped a very small amount on the tank paint and immediately wiped it off. It was on the paint less time than it took to read this sentence. The chemicals are so strong they discolored the paint. I've heard but haven't tried yet that a guy can protect the paint by painting it with melted paraffin. After all the treatments are completed you removed the paraffin from the outside. It sounds to me like it would work. I also use a shop vac on blow mode to move warm air through the tank. Usually I'll do that for about 30-60 minutes depending on conditions like temperature, humidity etc. Like most metal working and finishing procedures, preparation is the key. Absolutely no moisture can be in the tank when a procedure is started. That's the purpose of the moving air. I've seen Kream coated tanks and don't care for them. I think the Kream looks goofy and I suppose because the directions I've seen with it aren't very detailed some folks don't do a good job of preparation. I have worked on a tank that was Kreamed and it had sections probably 6 inches square coming loose from the tank walls. I use eye protection for all shop activities and suggest appropriate gloves too. Along with those precautions skin and respiratory protection with lots of ventilation are needed. Be careful about the tank getting pressurized when you use the chemicals. Follow the directions for each chemical process and call the folks at POR-15 if you have any questions. They want you to be successful with their product and like they say on their web page you'll get a person. Best, Jeff On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 21:56:59 -0700 "Randy Phillips" writes:

> > > I missed a e-mail. What is the best way to clean > a rusty tank and prep it? > > I'm familiar with the cycle shop stuff, but it > appears you are talking about some other product. > > I have a 1960 MotoGuzzi Cardellino and it's > perfect other than inside the tank. > > Randy > Idaho - A17 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of > Jeff Saline > Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2005 9:48 PM > To: jokerloco9@...; DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Headin to the > sandbox > > Jeff, > > Parked aircraft normally have rapid and > significant temperature changes. > They are often stored outside in all kinds of > weather conditions. Tanks often in wings with the > upper wing surface temperature different from the > lower wing surface temperature. I don't think > aircraft and KLR storage are equally comparable. > > But I agree full fuel tanks will normally reduce > condensation inside. I do have a tank from a barn > queen. It was parked and left for 9 or 10 years. > The inside of that tank is pretty nasty, but I can > restore it when I have a need to. POR-15 is a > wonderful product for lining fuel tanks. If you > get the motorcycle kit it has some powerful > chemicals that do a pretty good job of removing > corrosion and old fuel residue and prepping the > metal for later coating. The last tank I did was > about 5 years ago and it still looks like new > inside. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 22:40:26 EST > jokerloco9@... writes: > > For what it is worth, aircraft fuel tanks are > always stored full of > > gas to minimize any possibility of condensation. > The Sta-bil is > > designed to further increase the shelf life of > a full tank of gas in > > a tank. > > > > If you insist on draining the fuel tank, the > worst thing you can do is > > leave it dry. It will rust. > > Just look at any old motorcycle that has been > sitting. Pour 1/2 quart > > of > > motor in the tank and slosh it around. When > ready to ride, > > drain. flush it > > with gas a couple of times, and refill. > > > > Jeff A20 > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_searc > h.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: > www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris > Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map > at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups > Links > > > DSN_KLR650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > > >

[fasteddiecopeman]

Rick, God bless, Godspeed and... keep your head and *ss down! Fresh oil/filter, and lots of Stabil (make sure you run it till it's in the carb), or drain the carb and tank ('slosh' oil into tank everywhere, then "tag it" so you'll remember to rinse it AND remove the battery. Ed

[Glenn]

Acerbis has a couple of fairings that fit the KLR, and as far as handguards go you pretty much have your pick. Handguards tend to be universal, so buy what you like. There is a fender that rides the tire like you want, available from Fred. It's a 'UFO superbike fender'.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "koby686" wrote: > > hey does anybody know who or where I could find some cool aftermarket plastics for my > KLR, mainly the front fender, fairing, and handguards. I heard that Acerbis' could be made > to fit, but is there any taht go directly on the front tire, like the tengai style? Basically > because the stock plastics don't quite do it for me. thanks. >