painting plastics

[jokerloco9@aol.com]

Remember, another property of the glycol coolant is it has a water pump lubricant in it also. So if you run straight distilled water with water wetter, you need to add a water pump lubricant and something to prevent corrosion in the cooling system. Jeff [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Conall]

IMO the key to not allowing to the KLR to get hot is to keep the airflow up so that it never gets hot. DUH , I know, but hear me out. Before you install a auxillary muffin fan,which will just consume more power, wire in a switch so you can manually turn the OEM fan on ahead of time. When the going gets slow, you can preemptively run the fan, the KLR never gets hot. That's what I did, pretty soon you learn when to use the fan, like under 20 mph and going offroad. The advantage is you lower power consumption when the motor isn't runnin'. Conall --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Eric L. Green" wrote:

> > I'm about to try that water wetter stuff myself... certainly can't

hurt.

> Another thing I'm thinking of doing is fitting another fan onto my

KLR. I

> have access to a large 12V low-profile muffin fan with a high CFM

rating,

> if I add that and a switch I may be able to move enough air to keep the > KLR from overheating like that. > > -E

[Eric L. Green]

On Sun, 24 Jul 2005 jokerloco9@... wrote:

> Remember, another property of the glycol coolant is it has a water pump > lubricant in it also. So if you run straight distilled water with water > wetter, you need to add a water pump lubricant and something to prevent > corrosion in the cooling system.

Actually, the Red Line 'Water Wetter' does include a corrosion inhibiter and water pump lubricant. That said, I wouldn't suggest running distilled water with 'Water Wetter' because you're missing the anti-boil protection of 30% glycol/70% distilled water when you do that. There are people who have done so successfully, but they either live in extreme climates (middle of the Mojave or Sonora Desert?) or are doing hard-core dirt riding where they need every little bit of cooling capacity they can get. -E

[jeff@laytononline.com]

Did you spray the plastic prep on the plastic before applying the paint? The ones I have used worked well if you followed the three-step process: -Spray on 'sand free', or sand it to give the paint something to stick to. -Clean it up (if sanded) and spray "Plastic Prep" by SEM or other manufacturer -While plastic prep is still wet, spray your paint on. I did what you did the 1st time & had the same results (on a plastic truck grille). A professional car painter taight me the tricks above & it works like a charm. You may need to go to an auto paint store to get the right stuff however. Here where I live there's one parts shop that also has auto paint, and they carry that stuff on the shelf, along with lots of other 'magic' stuff like 3M Weld-through coating Jeff Layton From: "thomk2005" To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2005 5:14 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] FADED PLASTICS

>I recently purchased a "sun-baked" 200 KLR650. Faced with the option > of purchasing OEM plastics or trying an alternative, I opted on the > lesser expensive. Being found of simple black, I removed the > plastics > and painted them with a "bumper and trim" primer and paint. The > parts > were allowed to cure for well over 14 days. Needless to say, I am > not > really happy with the results. The paint chips and peels everytime a > bug or pebble hits it. > > I am looking for options/suggestions. Has anyone tried LINE-X or > similar product? Anyone had any success with the Krylon-fusion line? >