On 7/7/2016 12:17 PM, Roger Furneaux
roger.46tc@gmail.com [mg-tabc] wrote:
> hi Steve - reasons NOT to fit a seal: the expense, the time and
> trouble to fit it, not to mention the extra ET&T to REFIT it when it
> fails (in some cases more than once!
>
> If Moss have to change their instructions so many times, we can only
> imagine the amount of grief that that has been caused to quite a few
> owners.
>
> These are vintage cars we are talking about, 30s design technology,
> and it is expecting a lot for them to perform as modern ones do. But
> let us be thankful that we do not suffer from clogged particulate
> filters, breaking cam belts, dual-mass flywheels breaking up, and all
> the other ultra-expensive problems which modern cars inflicted with...
>
> It is easy to set up the original rear scroll seal , and when the rear
> main wears and oil loss becomes embarrassing, simply fit a catch tank
> bolted under the joggle pin.
>
> oc*T*agonally
>
> Roger
>
> On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 5:41 PM, Steve S
mail@mgnuts.com
> [mg-tabc] > wrote:
>
> I don't see having a good rear bearing as a reason to not fit a seal.
> Having bad bearings is a reason to replace them though, no matter
> what
> type of seal is installed! Even with brand new mains, that doesn't
> guarantee the engine won't leak like a fire hose from the rear. The
> scroll has to be in good order and set up properly to have any
> chance of
> minimizing leakage. If the bearings get so bad that the crank is
> flopping around, the scroll will probably become damaged and somewhat
> ineffective anyway.
>
> - Steve Simmons, TC8975
>
> On 7/6/2016 11:59 AM, Norman Verona wrote:
> >
> > Steve,
> >
> > Because if the rear main bearing is a good fit the rear main
> will not
> > leak. The scroll will do its job other than a few drips when you
> > switch off.
> >
> > Had I known then what I know now I would not have fitted the
> seal kit.
> > After all this time and the price of it it shouldn t be up to
> luck if
> > it works.
> >
> > *Norman Verona*
> >
> > La Foie, 49520, Noellet, France
> >
> > Tel: 0033 (0)2 41 92 73 44
> >
> > Mob: 0033 (0)7 70 70 23 79
> >
> > Website: www FrenchBlat com (put dots in the spaces)
> >
> > *From:*
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com ] *On
> > Behalf Of *Steve S
mail@mgnuts.com
> [mg-tabc]
> > *Sent:* 06 July 2016 19:37
> > *To:* 'yahoogroups' >
> > *Subject:* Re: [mg-tabc] Rear Engine Seal
> >
> > Why would you not fit a rubber rear seal if you have new main
> bearings?
> >
> > - Steve Simmons, TC8975
> >
> > On 7/6/2016 1:58 AM, 'Norman Verona'
norman@frenchblat.com
>
>
> >
> [mg-tabc] wrote:
> > >
> > > Nick,
> > >
> > > The appropriate course of action is:
> > >
> > > 1)If you have new main bearings do not fit the seal.
> > >
> > > 2)If you crank has movement, either way, do not fit the seal kit.
> > >
> > > 3)If you think you ll make it better with the seal kit, you
> may, but
> > > you ll be lucky to get it right first time.
> > >
> > > If you read the responses I ve had, all well meaning and I m sure
> > > they re all completely correct for each individuals
> circumstances but
> > > each is different. In some case if you follow one set of
> instructions
> > > it is opposite to another.
> > >
> > > I followed the Moss instructions that came with the seal kit
> to the
> > > letter. The flywheel was skimmed, the bolts were shortened.
> The seal
> > > housing was aligned the seal was fitted exactly as per the
> > > instructions. I didn t fit a sleeve as the crank had no marks
> and I
> > > polished it with 2000 grade wet and dry.
> > >
> > > However, I ve since been sent 2 further Moss instructions, both
> > > different to the first and to each other.
> > >
> > > This time I m fitting the seal to the sleeve backwards. I ll
> soak the
> > > seal in hot water and put PTFE tape on the open edge of the
> sleeve.
> > > Then I ll fit the sleeve on backwards using a flat piece of
> wood to
> > > keep it in line. I ll also put a smear of silicone gasket
> maker on the
> > > crank to ensure there is a seal between sleeve and crank. I ll
> measure
> > > the depth of the crank, the width of the seal and the width of the
> > > sleeve to ensure the seal sits in the centre of the sleeve. If
> I have
> > > to make a distance piece to keep the sleeve from going too far
> on then
> > > so be it.
> > >
> > > If mine still leaks after all that I m reverting to the
> scroll. I only
> > > need to fill in the new drain hole.
> > >
> > > Summary. *DO NOT USE THE MOSS KIT, YOU LL REGRET IT.*
> > >
> > > *Norman Verona*
> > >
> > > La Foie, 49520, Noellet, France
> > >
> > > Tel: 0033 (0)2 41 92 73 44
> > >
> > > Mob: 0033 (0)7 70 70 23 79
> > >
> > > Website: www FrenchBlat com (put dots in the spaces)
> > >
> > > *From:*
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
> ] *On
> > > Behalf Of *Nicholas Fitzhugh
fitzhugh_n@yahoo.com
>
> >
> [mg-tabc]
> > > *Sent:* 06 July 2016 10:08
> > > *To:* yahoogroups
> > >
> > > *Subject:* [mg-tabc] Rear Engine Seal
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > Thanks to all who have responded so far. Unfortunately, the
> number of
> > > responses is unexpectedly very poor - there must be over 2000 XPAG
> > > engines out there and they all will either have a seal
> conversion or
> > > be using the original scroll. so every engine owner will be
> adding to
> > > the collective knowledge of the entire group. The survey only
> takes a
> > > minute or two and will help member in the future decide on an
> > > appropiate course of action when dealing with oil leaks.
> > >
> > > Can I request that each of you finds the time to participate and
> > > hopefully we will obtain useful insights into this area?
> > >
> > > Regards
> > >
> > > Nick
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
