Front Hub Nut Torque

[Davidtasa@aol.com]

I have two questions for the listers: 1. With tapered roller bearings, spacers, shims etc. all in place, what should be the final torque on the castellated spindle nut? The MGB Handbook as well as the Torque Values in the list's special files suggests 40-70 foot lbs. but Peter Pleitner's article mentions 150 foot lbs.! John Steedman's explanation says only. "tighten firmly (I'm sure there is an appropriate torque setting)". What is the consensus? 1a. Would that be the same also for a TD with it's standard front hub bearing set up? 2. What is a recommended method of achieving the end float of 0.002"-0.005" on the bearings? Is it possible to accomplish this without a Dial Test Indicator? John Steedman talked about Roger Furneaux's recommended 3 lb-inches of torque to rotate the hub. How could that be accurately measured? Is the only surefire method to buy a DTI and learn how to use it or is there another way to get accurate results? Happy New Year to you all! David and TC 3896

[Chip Old]

On Thu, 3 Jan 2002 Davidtasa@aol.com wrote:

> 2. What is a recommended method of achieving the end float of > 0.002"-0.005" on the bearings? Is it possible to accomplish this > without a Dial Test Indicator? John Steedman talked about Roger > Furneaux's recommended 3 lb-inches of torque to rotate the hub. How > could that be accurately measured? Is the only surefire method to buy > a DTI and learn how to use it or is there another way to get accurate > results?

Not as accurate as a dial indicator, but a quick and dirty method often used by old time mechanics was to aim for just enough bearing float so you can just barely feel looseness when you grasp the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and shake gently. The big problem with this is that looseness elsewhere (kinkpin bushings, for example) can fool you if you shake too hard. If you're a stickler for accuracy, get a dial indicator with a magnetic base and learn to use it. It isn't difficult, and you'll find all kinds of other uses for it. -- Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271 Cub Hill, Maryland 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO CT3479E fold@bcpl.net

[Robert Grunau]

I have two questions for the listers: 1. With tapered roller bearings, spacers, shims etc. all in place, what should be the final torque on the castellated spindle nut? The MGB Handbook as well as the Torque Values in the list's special files suggests 40-70 foot lbs.

-Original 5/8 BSF hub nuts are probably OK at 40 70 ft-lbs.

but Peter Pleitner's article mentions 150 foot lbs.!

-Peter was referring to replacement NEW stub axle inserts where the material is ASTM 4140 HT and SR, known metalurgy, 130,000 psi tensile, and NF modern thread nut. The torque on the stub axle nut also ensures the replacement pressed in stub axle stays PUT!! So DON t use this figure on original 5/8 BSF stub axles! The two torques are for entirely DIFFERENT stub axles. BTW, I supply these stub axle inserts.

John Steedman's explanation says only. "tighten firmly (I'm sure there is an appropriate torque setting)". What is the consensus? 1a. Would that be the same also for a TD with it's standard front hub bearing set up?

-I would think so, early TDs had 5/8 BSF stub axles so 40 70 ft-lbs is OK. Later TDs and TFs had -NF nuts so probably a higher torque could be acceptable.

2. What is a recommended method of achieving the end float of 0.002"-0.005" on the bearings? Is it possible to accomplish this without a Dial Test Indicator? John Steedman talked about Roger Furneaux's recommended 3 lb-inches of torque to rotate the hub. How could that be accurately measured? Is the only surefire method to buy a DTI and learn how to use it or is there another way to get accurate results?

-The very slightest amount of free play would be OK. Not sure where this 0.002-0.003 came from, but I would have not worry if the tapered rollers had no play. After all, any other use of tapered rollers calls for a slight pre-load, so why not wheel bearings?

Regards, Bob Grunau

[Steve.Fielder@winzerwurth.co.uk]

Good morning all, I am in the middle of rebuilding the front bearings/hubs and have a couple of questions; which way round does the dished washer go, dish in or out? I have been given two reload torque figures for the hub nut, is it 80 lbs ft or 90 lbs ft? all answers, as ever, greatfully recieved Steve TC4219

[Peter Cole]

Steve, The dished washer is fitted with the convexed side to the bearing, and the concaved side to the nut. The other way around the rim of the washer would foul the bearing. I don't know about the torque, but I expect someone will. Regards Peter Cole.