Oil

D&J Edgar
Posts: 50
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2004 1:46 pm

Re: Oil

Post by D&J Edgar » Thu Apr 21, 2005 11:24 am

The straight 50 wt comment probably came from Carl Cederstrand (engineer and inventor). If I remember correctly his contention is that 20/50 is made up polymers used for a 20 wt oil that modify by stretching and then act like a 50 wt when hot. (Hope I got that somewhat right Carl) Perfectionist that he is, he likes a straight weight which is fine for our mild Southern California Winters. He does suggest warming up the engine properly though before putting heavy strain on it.. A quick search on the web came up with this. Quite interesting. Go to: http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html f or the full story. =================== 4. Multi-viscosity Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot. Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best. Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle. ====================== David Edgar, TC 5108 El Cajon, California
> At 12:40 PM 4/21/2005 -0400, FDShade@aol.com wrote: > >> Someone has suggested straight 50 wt for our souther California (temperate >> zone) cars. What say you? >> >> Jim Shade, West Covina CA

Chip Old
Posts: 206
Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2000 6:57 am

Re: Oil

Post by Chip Old » Thu Apr 21, 2005 12:12 pm

On Thu, 21 Apr 2005 12:40 -0400, FDShade@aol.com wrote:
> Someone has suggested straight 50 wt for our souther California > (temperate zone) cars. What say you?
Bad idea. The fastest wear occurs between startup and however long it takes the oil to heat up enough to start flowing well. Even at your typical SoCal temperatures SAE 50 oil is too thick to flow well when you do a cold start. If you want oil with the flow and protection properties of SAE 50 when hot, use SAE 20W-50 multi-viscosity so you'll also have good flow and protection when cold. -- Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271 Cub Hill, Maryland fold@bcpl.net

Sally Carroll
Posts: 84
Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2001 11:56 am

OIL

Post by Sally Carroll » Thu Apr 21, 2005 7:28 pm

Dear All: Unless you live in a very hot climate multigraded oil up to 40 Wt. is just fine. Jim said so, and he was a hydraulics engineer and a T car experienced mechanic. And again the lower number need not be less than 20 unless you expect to drive in subzero weather. SO: 20-50 is good. . 15-40 is quite acceptable but be sure to watch the grade. Happy driving. . . Sally -- My scanner says No has been virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.10.2 - Release Date: 21-Apr-05

acmehumor
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat May 20, 2006 10:24 pm

OIL

Post by acmehumor » Thu Mar 08, 2007 11:28 am

After the recent information presented about oils, how many of you have or are planning to switch to diesel oil? I think I will. Bill Williams

Steve S
Posts: 107
Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2005 2:56 pm

Re: OIL

Post by Steve S » Thu Mar 08, 2007 11:43 am

Diesel oil will suffer the same fate as conventional oils this year, specifically the loss of most of its ZDDP. Diesel oils also contain a lot more detergents, so on anything other than a newly rebuilt engine it may knock loose old deposits. I worry about clogged oil passeges. Just recently I switched to DAE Super Speed Sport oil. They are also reforumlating, but the levels of ZDDP are said to remain the same. - Steve S, TC8975, LA, CA -
----- Original Message ----- From: acmehumor To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 11:26 AM Subject: [mg-tabc] OIL After the recent information presented about oils, how many of you have or are planning to switch to diesel oil? I think I will. Bill Williams [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Pavone, John (GE, Corporate)
Posts: 0
Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2006 2:41 pm

Re: OIL

Post by Pavone, John (GE, Corporate) » Thu Mar 08, 2007 11:44 am

Bill, I did use Rotella T Diesel oil but they recently lowered the zinc percentage, so I will stop using them when my supply runs out. Chevron Delo 400, at least according to their website, still has a good amount of zinc. JP TC2797 After the recent information presented about oils, how many of you have or are planning to switch to diesel oil? I think I will. Bill Williams [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

LuckyFloridaLin@aol.com
Posts: 169
Joined: Wed Jun 04, 2003 10:42 pm

Re: OIL

Post by LuckyFloridaLin@aol.com » Thu Mar 08, 2007 11:48 am

Dear Bill; Components are too erratic in Diesel Oil. Read towards the bottom. I won't! Tally Ho! Thom ************************************** AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

acmehumor
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat May 20, 2006 10:24 pm

OIL

Post by acmehumor » Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:15 pm

OK, that does it. I'm switching to canola oil. That's for Monday, Wednesday, friday. The other three days, olive oil. On the seventh day I will rest. Bill Williams

KEN PORTER
Posts: 46
Joined: Thu May 04, 2000 3:12 pm

Re: OIL

Post by KEN PORTER » Thu Mar 08, 2007 1:08 pm

All: I just bought a case of Red Line 20/50. Ken Porter Manchester NH TC4147 MGA acmehumor wrote:
> > > After the recent information presented about oils, how many of you > have or are planning to switch to diesel oil? I think I will. > Bill Williams > >

Robert Brennan
Posts: 8
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2005 2:33 pm

Re: OIL

Post by Robert Brennan » Thu Mar 08, 2007 2:09 pm

Is Castrol 20W50 now considered a zinc deficient has been? Bob Brennan S. Freeport, ME
On 3/8/07, ken porter kwcp@comcast.net> wrote: > > All: > I just bought a case of Red Line 20/50. > Ken Porter Manchester NH TC4147 MGA > > acmehumor wrote: > > > > > > After the recent information presented about oils, how many of you > > have or are planning to switch to diesel oil? I think I will. > > Bill Williams > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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