Front Hubs and Bearings

[Viv James TraX Interconnect (Pty.) Ltd]

What I did not mention was that we replaced our spindles as per instructions in Sherrell and on this list. I also looked up my notes and found that 80 to 90 foot pounds was the torque figure recommended by Eric who did the job.. I also did not mention that DAI visited Cape Town during this operation and came with me to the machine shop where Eric was doing my hubs and stubs - it's a small small world! We solved the sleeving problem by using slightly smaller OD taper races than the original inner and outer ball race ODs. This enabled more substantial sleeves to be used. Machining the sleeves concentric with the wheel and brake drum centres was another story and some clever tooling was needed. To avoid shimming to get the correct spacing for the taper races we machined down the original spacers a tad and made small extra spacers the correct thicknessfor each ot the 6 spindle/hub pairs (we did 3 cars to reduce costs). The other interesting change was to ignore the left hand thread. We just used 2 rights. With 80 - 90 foot pounds and a fat split pin for safety, there is no need. Viv James. PS I often use our friend Barry W. I am 6000 miles from him and I know his prices are high but he has always given reliable service and frequently he is the only person who can help with things like PA doors etc. He did well out of me at Silverstone last year but I came back with some good stuff!

[Roger Furneaux]

Hi Viv - are you sure about those RH threads??? IF a bearing ever seizes, even for an instant, it will spin the inner and/or outer races: the original hub nuts then "self-tighten". the fact that the races can spin is proved by the fact that many old hubs are so worn that even new bearings just flop about in them, and if the shoulders wear as well, the spacer length will be wrong. if your N/S bearings with the incorrect RH nuts ever seized, no split pin would stop that nut spinning right off. only my opinion, BUT... ocTagonally TCRoger

>What I did not mention was that we replaced our spindles as per >instructions in Sherrell and on this list. I also looked up my notes >and found that 80 to 90 foot pounds was the torque figure >recommended by Eric who did the job.. >The other interesting change was to ignore the left hand thread. We >just used 2 rights. With 80 - 90 foot pounds and a fat split pin for >safety, there is no need. > >Viv James.

[Viv James TraX Interconnect (Pty.) Ltd]

Date sent: Thu, 24 May 2001 00:10:28 +0100 Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Front Hubs and Bearings From: "Roger Furneaux" Roger.46TC@virgin.net> To: "Viv James TraX Interconnect (Pty.) Ltd" viv@trax.co.za> Copies to: ".T-ABCs" mg-tabc@egroups.com> Hello Roger, As a seasoned boat trailer puller, I know lots about lousy wheel bearings (salt water does bad things to them)! I change mine very regularly and I'm also fanatical about greasing them etc. The same applies to my TC hence all the attention to hubs stubs 'n stuff. You are correct about the split pin and that is certainly not its purpose! I never let my bearings get to that stage. I'm open to correction but the experts tell me that these days many car makers don't bother with the LH threads any more. I am also quite sensitive about these things having seen 2 TC wheels, drums, knock-offs etc. fold my right front mudguard vertically upwards and disappear into the distance, leaving me to cope with a whole lot of adrenalin, noise, sparks, embarrassment etc. The good news is that TCs steer pretty well with only 1 front wheel. This'll be my last to the list for a week or so. We're going to a regatta in Port Elizabeth next week. Cheers Viv PS Your 1/2 shafts are still solid like rocks!! Next will be one of your CWPs