Alan Henderson A13
Minnesotawinter storage suggestion from a customer, not an employee. =)
-
Horton Oliphant
- Posts: 184
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:43 am
bah!
Never had this problem before but apparently let the bike sit too long
and when I started it recently it would idle with the choke on but would
die with the choke off and not take any throttle. I idled the bike
around the block but it never cleared up. So I'm thinking plugged jets,
torn diagram. I'm not a newcomer to working on my bike but would just
like to be reminded of solutions. I have some Seafoam that I planned to
put in the carb after I drain the old gas. Of course I can check the
diaphragm also, any other suggestions?
Yes, I know should have ridden the bike more. Alan Henderson A13
Minnesota
Alan Henderson A13
Minnesota-
Datsun
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu May 19, 2016 9:29 am
bah!
Just went through the same issue. Plugged jets. RyanPhoenix
-------- Original message --------From: "Horton Oliphant hortonhearsawho@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: 10/17/17 8:23 AM (GMT-07:00) To: klr DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Bah!
Never had this problem before but apparently let the bike sit too long
and when I started it recently it would idle with the choke on but would
die with the choke off and not take any throttle. I idled the bike
around the block but it never cleared up. So I'm thinking plugged jets,
torn diagram. I'm not a newcomer to working on my bike but would just
like to be reminded of solutions. I have some Seafoam that I planned to
put in the carb after I drain the old gas. Of course I can check the
diaphragm also, any other suggestions?
Yes, I know should have ridden the bike more. Alan Henderson A13
Minnesota
Alan Henderson A13
Minnesota
-
eddie mauri
- Posts: 57
- Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2008 10:36 am
bah!
SeaFoam...... To me, it works wonders on carbs....
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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Jeff Khoury
- Posts: 684
- Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:08 am
bah!
Your pilot jets are plugged. Unfortunately you'll have to remove the carb and clean it out with carb cleaner and a strand from a bronze wire brush.
The places to concentrate on are the pilot jet itself in the bowl (the one with the tiny hole) and the tiny holes in the bottom of the small side of the venturi. Spray them well with a good carb cleaner and use needle nose pliers and a strand from a -BRASS OR BRONZE- wire brush to break through the varnish that's clogging them.
On Tue, Oct 17, 2017 at 8:23 AM, Horton Oliphant hortonhearsawho@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] Never had this problem before but apparently let the bike sit too long and when I started it recently it would idle with the choke on but would die with the choke off and not take any throttle. I idled the bike around the block but it never cleared up. So I'm thinking plugged jets, torn diagram. I'm not a newcomer to working on my bike but would just like to be reminded of solutions. I have some Seafoam that I planned to put in the carb after I drain the old gas. Of course I can check the diaphragm also, any other suggestions? Yes, I know should have ridden the bike more.
-
Martin Earl
- Posts: 231
- Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2003 10:00 pm
bah!
Hi Allen,It has been so long since you posted, I was beginning to think the 'elephantes ate your pig."
In addition to all the advice previously suggested, if you have to go to a complete teardown and full carb soaking, many have had very good results using PineSol in a Ultra Sonic cleaner.The Pinesol is reported to be safe on internal O-rings, where other solvents may degrade them.
I know a St. Louis BMW rider who did this to his Bing carbs/bike that sat for 20+ years and it worked like a champ.If my KLR carb 'fouled' it is what I would use.
I would try this before removing the carb:In the short run, you may be able to rotate the carb counterclockwise, remove the fuel bowl and remove the jets from the R side of the bike. Remember you have to be very careful/remove the carb enricher, or at the very least, remove it from the handle bar before rotation of the carb.It is a good time to replace the fuel bowl screws with some cap-head screws (3mm I think).
Another solution I have read is to fill the carb bowl with the Yamaha (Startron?) fuel treatment and let it soak overnight. Most likely though, you will have to use Jeff K's suggestion of cleaning the jets by hand.
For all others that are not experiencing this fuel varnishing problem, this is your friendly reminder it is time to treat the fuel for winter time storage (overkill for some, shrug) with Seafoam @ 1oz/gal. Add the 6oz of Seafoam, for the 6gal KLR tank, add the fuel, and let it run long enough to completely wash through every fuel circuit.
Additionally, after you have finally parked the bike, close the fuel valve, run the carb dry by running the bike until it dies (you could also just drain the carb). After the bike dies/empties the fuel bowl;Push the enricher circuit to 'FULL" and restart the bike; it will start, and may run as long as 10 secs. This additional step will clear any residual fuel in the enricher circuit.
During the winter/sleep/comatose sleep/ period of in-activity, I keep a bottle of Seafoam on the bike and re-treat the fuel/fillup every time I get lucky enough to convert stored fuel to smiles...as you never know if it is going to be 10 days or 140 days before I can ride again.
Following this process, I have not had a fouled KLR jet (with fuel) since 2003...I did have a bug wing suck in the main jet, mostly likely through the carb vent system...I removed the bug wing/main jet by the procedure described above. Sadly though, converting gas to smiles is not very likely in the Dakota's once winter has started (which it has, a little late this year, but a blizzard on Monday, one today, yeah, yeah, winter has started.)
Don't forget the battery tender as well; I personally don't like the idea of leaving batteries plugged in 'full-time', rather I do a topping charge with the battery tender every two weeks to full charge and then disconnect the battery. Rinse. Repeat 2x/month.
Please report back how it went.
m1.
On Tue, Oct 17, 2017 at 9:23 AM, Horton Oliphant hortonhearsawho@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Never had this problem before but apparently let the bike sit too long and when I started it recently it would idle with the choke on but would die with the choke off and not take any throttle. I idled the bike around the block but it never cleared up. So I'm thinking plugged jets, torn diagram. I'm not a newcomer to working on my bike but would just like to be reminded of solutions. I have some Seafoam that I planned to put in the carb after I drain the old gas. Of course I can check the diaphragm also, any other suggestions? Yes, I know should have ridden the bike more.
-
Buddy Eckles
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Thu Mar 04, 2010 7:55 pm
bah!
Allen, I endorse Jeff and Martin's recommendations, and I add an ounce of StarTron to help neutralize the effects of ethynol.
Get Outlook for Android
[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Martin Earl mjearl4@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
[b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, December 6, 2017 11:50:14 AM
[b]To:[/b] DSN KLR650; Horton Oliphant
[b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Bah!
Hi Allen, It has been so long since you posted, I was beginning to think the 'elephantes ate your pig."
In addition to all the advice previously suggested, if you have to go to a complete teardown and full carb soaking, many have had very good results using PineSol in a Ultra Sonic cleaner. The Pinesol is reported to be safe on internal O-rings, where other solvents may degrade them.
I know a St. Louis BMW rider who did this to his Bing carbs/bike that sat for 20+ years and it worked like a champ. If my KLR carb 'fouled' it is what I would use.
I would try this before removing the carb: In the short run, you may be able to rotate the carb counterclockwise, remove the fuel bowl and remove the jets from the R side of the bike. Remember you have to be very careful/remove the carb enricher, or at the very least, remove it from the handle bar before rotation of the carb. It is a good time to replace the fuel bowl screws with some cap-head screws (3mm I think).
Another solution I have read is to fill the carb bowl with the Yamaha (Startron?) fuel treatment and let it soak overnight. Most likely though, you will have to use Jeff K's suggestion of cleaning the jets by hand.
For all others that are not experiencing this fuel varnishing problem, this is your friendly reminder it is time to treat the fuel for winter time storage (overkill for some, shrug) with Seafoam @ 1oz/gal. Add the 6oz of Seafoam, for the 6gal KLR tank, add the fuel, and let it run long enough to completely wash through every fuel circuit.
Additionally, after you have finally parked the bike, close the fuel valve, run the carb dry by running the bike until it dies (you could also just drain the carb).. After the bike dies/empties the fuel bowl; Push the enricher circuit to 'FULL" and restart the bike; it will start, and may run as long as 10 secs. This additional step will clear any residual fuel in the enricher circuit.
During the winter/sleep/comatose sleep/ period of in-activity, I keep a bottle of Seafoam on the bike and re-treat the fuel/fillup every time I get lucky enough to convert stored fuel to smiles...as you never know if it is going to be 10 days or 140 days before I can ride again.
Following this process, I have not had a fouled KLR jet (with fuel) since 2003...I did have a bug wing suck in the main jet, mostly likely through the carb vent system...I removed the bug wing/main jet by the procedure described above. Sadly though, converting gas to smiles is not very likely in the Dakota's once winter has started (which it has, a little late this year, but a blizzard on Monday, one today, yeah, yeah, winter has started.)
Don't forget the battery tender as well; I personally don't like the idea of leaving batteries plugged in 'full-time', rather I do a topping charge with the battery tender every two weeks to full charge and then disconnect the battery. Rinse. Repeat 2x/month.
Please report back how it went.
m1.
On Tue, Oct 17, 2017 at 9:23 AM, Horton Oliphant hortonhearsawho@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Never had this problem before but apparently let the bike sit too long and when I started it recently it would idle with the choke on but would die with the choke off and not take any throttle. I idled the bike around the block but it never cleared up. So I'm thinking plugged jets, torn diagram. I'm not a newcomer to working on my bike but would just like to be reminded of solutions. I have some Seafoam that I planned to put in the carb after I drain the old gas. Of course I can check the diaphragm also, any other suggestions? Yes, I know should have ridden the bike more.
-
Horton Oliphant
- Posts: 184
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:43 am
bah!
Yep, I agree also. After removing braces for the side car, the tank , and many other assorted parts I turned the carb, removed the float bowl and found some black stuff plugging the jets. Haven't got around to finishing the job but I may have to replace the gas line besides a good cleaning. The stuff I found doesn't look like varnish, cleaned right out of the main jet with cleaner and compressed air. It is almost like the inside of the gas line is breaking down and throwing off particles.
Hey Norm, best wishes on future endeavors. Your voice will be missed.
Alan Henderson A13 Minnesota
On 12/6/2017 2:44 PM, Buddy Eckles buddyeckles@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:
Allen, I endorse Jeff and Martin's recommendations, and I add an ounce of StarTron to help neutralize the effects of ethynol. Get Outlook for Android [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Martin Earl mjearl4@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, December 6, 2017 11:50:14 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN KLR650; Horton Oliphant [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Bah! Hi Allen, It has been so long since you posted, I was beginning to think the 'elephantes ate your pig." In addition to all the advice previously suggested, if you have to go to a complete teardown and full carb soaking, many have had very good results using PineSol in a Ultra Sonic cleaner. The Pinesol is reported to be safe on internal O-rings, where other solvents may degrade them. I know a St. Louis BMW rider who did this to his Bing carbs/bike that sat for 20+ years and it worked like a champ. If my KLR carb 'fouled' it is what I would use. I would try this before removing the carb: In the short run, you may be able to rotate the carb counterclockwise, remove the fuel bowl and remove the jets from the R side of the bike. Remember you have to be very careful/remove the carb enricher, or at the very least, remove it from the handle bar before rotation of the carb. It is a good time to replace the fuel bowl screws with some cap-head screws (3mm I think). Another solution I have read is to fill the carb bowl with the Yamaha (Startron?) fuel treatment and let it soak overnight. Most likely though, you will have to use Jeff K's suggestion of cleaning the jets by hand. For all others that are not experiencing this fuel varnishing problem, this is your friendly reminder it is time to treat the fuel for winter time storage (overkill for some, shrug) with Seafoam @ 1oz/gal. Add the 6oz of Seafoam, for the 6gal KLR tank, add the fuel, and let it run long enough to completely wash through every fuel circuit. Additionally, after you have finally parked the bike, close the fuel valve, run the carb dry by running the bike until it dies (you could also just drain the carb).. After the bike dies/empties the fuel bowl; Push the enricher circuit to 'FULL" and restart the bike; it will start, and may run as long as 10 secs. This additional step will clear any residual fuel in the enricher circuit. During the winter/sleep/comatose sleep/ period of in-activity, I keep a bottle of Seafoam on the bike and re-treat the fuel/fillup every time I get lucky enough to convert stored fuel to smiles...as you never know if it is going to be 10 days or 140 days before I can ride again. Following this process, I have not had a fouled KLR jet (with fuel) since 2003...I did have a bug wing suck in the main jet, mostly likely through the carb vent system...I removed the bug wing/main jet by the procedure described above. Sadly though, converting gas to smiles is not very likely in the Dakota's once winter has started (which it has, a little late this year, but a blizzard on Monday, one today, yeah, yeah, winter has started.) Don't forget the battery tender as well; I personally don't like the idea of leaving batteries plugged in 'full-time', rather I do a topping charge with the battery tender every two weeks to full charge and then disconnect the battery. Rinse. Repeat 2x/month. Please report back how it went. m1. On Tue, Oct 17, 2017 at 9:23 AM, Horton Oliphant hortonhearsawho@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Never had this problem before but apparently let the bike sit too long and when I started it recently it would idle with the choke on but would die with the choke off and not take any throttle. I idled the bike around the block but it never cleared up. So I'm thinking plugged jets, torn diagram. I'm not a newcomer to working on my bike but would just like to be reminded of solutions. I have some Seafoam that I planned to put in the carb after I drain the old gas. Of course I can check the diaphragm also, any other suggestions? Yes, I know should have ridden the bike more.
-
Fred Hink
- Posts: 2434
- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 10:08 am
bah!
Those black bits are more than likely from the diverter valve seal inside your petcock. If you disassemble your petcock you ll see a round rubber seal with four holes in it. The edges of the seal get brittle and break off ending up in your float valve and then in your float bowl. You can take this seal and reverse it to have a good seal again or you can replace it. Petcock rebuild kits are about $30.
Fred
http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">Horton Oliphant hortonhearsawho@... [DSN_KLR650] [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, December 6, 2017 2:03 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Bah!
Yep, I agree also. After removing braces for the side car, the tank , and many other assorted parts I turned the carb, removed the float bowl and found some black stuff plugging the jets. Haven't got around to finishing the job but I may have to replace the gas line besides a good cleaning. The stuff I found doesn't look like varnish, cleaned right out of the main jet with cleaner and compressed air. It is almost like the inside of the gas line is breaking down and throwing off particles. Hey Norm, best wishes on future endeavors. Your voice will be missed. Alan Henderson A13 Minnesota On 12/6/2017 2:44 PM, Buddy Eckles buddyeckles@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:
Allen, I endorse Jeff and Martin's recommendations, and I add an ounce of StarTron to help neutralize the effects of ethynol. Get Outlook for Android [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Martin Earl mjearl4@... [DSN_KLR650] mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, December 6, 2017 11:50:14 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN KLR650; Horton Oliphant [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Bah! Hi Allen, It has been so long since you posted, I was beginning to think the 'elephantes ate your pig." In addition to all the advice previously suggested, if you have to go to a complete teardown and full carb soaking, many have had very good results using PineSol in a Ultra Sonic cleaner. The Pinesol is reported to be safe on internal O-rings, where other solvents may degrade them. I know a St. Louis BMW rider who did this to his Bing carbs/bike that sat for 20+ years and it worked like a champ. If my KLR carb 'fouled' it is what I would use. I would try this before removing the carb: In the short run, you may be able to rotate the carb counterclockwise, remove the fuel bowl and remove the jets from the R side of the bike. Remember you have to be very careful/remove the carb enricher, or at the very least, remove it from the handle bar before rotation of the carb. It is a good time to replace the fuel bowl screws with some cap-head screws (3mm I think). Another solution I have read is to fill the carb bowl with the Yamaha (Startron?) fuel treatment and let it soak overnight. Most likely though, you will have to use Jeff K's suggestion of cleaning the jets by hand. For all others that are not experiencing this fuel varnishing problem, this is your friendly reminder it is time to treat the fuel for winter time storage (overkill for some, shrug) with Seafoam @ 1oz/gal. Add the 6oz of Seafoam, for the 6gal KLR tank, add the fuel, and let it run long enough to completely wash through every fuel circuit. Additionally, after you have finally parked the bike, close the fuel valve, run the carb dry by running the bike until it dies (you could also just drain the carb).. After the bike dies/empties the fuel bowl; Push the enricher circuit to 'FULL" and restart the bike; it will start, and may run as long as 10 secs. This additional step will clear any residual fuel in the enricher circuit. During the winter/sleep/comatose sleep/ period of in-activity, I keep a bottle of Seafoam on the bike and re-treat the fuel/fillup every time I get lucky enough to convert stored fuel to smiles...as you never know if it is going to be 10 days or 140 days before I can ride again. Following this process, I have not had a fouled KLR jet (with fuel) since 2003...I did have a bug wing suck in the main jet, mostly likely through the carb vent system...I removed the bug wing/main jet by the procedure described above. Sadly though, converting gas to smiles is not very likely in the Dakota's once winter has started (which it has, a little late this year, but a blizzard on Monday, one today, yeah, yeah, winter has started.) Don't forget the battery tender as well; I personally don't like the idea of leaving batteries plugged in 'full-time', rather I do a topping charge with the battery tender every two weeks to full charge and then disconnect the battery. Rinse. Repeat 2x/month. Please report back how it went. m1. On Tue, Oct 17, 2017 at 9:23 AM, Horton Oliphant hortonhearsawho@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Never had this problem before but apparently let the bike sit too long and when I started it recently it would idle with the choke on but would die with the choke off and not take any throttle. I idled the bike around the block but it never cleared up. So I'm thinking plugged jets, torn diagram. I'm not a newcomer to working on my bike but would just like to be reminded of solutions. I have some Seafoam that I planned to put in the carb after I drain the old gas. Of course I can check the diaphragm also, any other suggestions? Yes, I know should have ridden the bike more.
-
GMac
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2011 9:32 pm
winter storage suggestion from a customer, not an employee. =)
I keep 15 gallons of ethanol free fuel at my house that is treated with Stabil. It s for my generator when power goes out. I ve found the stations at https://www.pure-gas.org/ .Spring and fall I change it out, I fill my bikes and lawn equipment with it the last couple of fillings.So far I haven t had any fuel related issues with any that I ve used that fuel in. Greg McKinney
SOAR Simons Organization for Animal Rights
www.soardoggyrescue.org[u]tnspanielrescue@...[/u][u][/u] [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com]
[b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, December 06, 2017 3:10 PM
[b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
[b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Winter storage suggestion from a customer, not an employee. =)
Ethanol: The scourge of the small engine universe!
Trying to get gas to last much more than a month in storage is just about impossible these days.
Jets and stuff get clogged in a hurry with bad gas goo and ethanol-induced corrosion.
I live in Georgia where I luckily can ride year round and can avoid bike storage issues like clogged carbs and such.
That said, I do volunteer work in a local state park as a hiking trail maintainer, cutting fallen trees across the trail with a
chainsaw. There s nothing like hiking miles and miles to a location and have the saw not start. When I bought my new Stihl MS290 several years ago,
I started using 50:1 pre-mixed fuel made by TruFuel.
It s EX-pensive! How much? $6-$8 a quart if you buy it in that size.
A large tin is slightly cheaper per oz., but not much.
But, as little and infrequently I was using the saw, it s been worth the cost
not having to suffer bad fuel AND the saw starts right up every single time.
That got me to wondering how it d do in my low-buck Briggs&Stratton powered push mower.
They sell a 4 stroke use version with the same longevity promise as the pre-mix:
Shelf life unopened = 5 years. Opened? 2 years.
Yea, hard to believe.
Wellllll, I put a quart of the stuff in my mower last fall, cut the yard, topped the tank off and parked it for a few months.
Come springtime, I pressed the primer bulb a few times, gave the cord a pull and it lit off on the very first try and does so 100% of the time.
This is after sitting under a tarp outside!
Now for the Paul Harvey rest of the story .
If it s worth $20 to KLRistas out there, get the big can of the TruFuel in the grey can (no mix oil).
Run your bike completely out of gas. Pour in the Tru Fuel and crank it back up and let it run a few minutes.
Shut it off and you re done. The fuel has stabilizers, is 92 octane unleaded, has no ethanol and ought to work at preventing stored engine syndrome.
If you re old enough to remember what gas used to smell like, it will bring back nose hair curling memories, too! LOL
-eddie
PS: Note: Briggs & Stratton sells a 4 stroke fuel made by VP Racing Fuels with virtually the same properties as the TruFuel brand.
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