widget verse apps & differance???? (nklr)

[Brad's E-mail]

So the correct thing is not to install the lock nut? I just changed my first set and put the nut on.

----- Original Message ----- From: fasteddiecopeman To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 6:52 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: tires Jacob, I'm going to OFFEND you on purpose: if you read this list and are too bull-headed to take advantage of the FREE advice given by riders that have OBVIOUSLY forgotten more than you'll probably EVER know - than SUCK IT UP! Many of us have shared wisdom that took many SKINNED KNUCKLES and OH MY GOD'S to learn, and when we share it with YOU, it's to help you so that you MIGHT not have to go through all that we have learned through the SCHOOL OF HARD KNOCKS! IF you choose, DESPITE ADVICE TO THE CONTRARY, to ignore it, and then have EXACTLY the problem we've tried to help you avoid, DON'T come back whining that you..."Listmen, Yes, I read most of the rants on this list, and I remember having read something about leaving the valve locknut off, but it seemed weird to me. I don t have to believe and swallow everything I read, do I? Why would the innertubes supply the two nuts, and why would everyone I know use it the "normal" way, if it is better not to tighten the locknut?..." At this point, I'd like to apologize to the rest of the list that this had to happen. Cheers, Ed [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Michael Nelson]

On Wed, Mar 26, 2008 at 08:49:59PM -0400, Brad's E-mail wrote:

> So the correct thing is not to install the lock nut? I just changed my > first set and put the nut on.

Well, in yet another variation, I install the nut on the stem on the outside of the rim but then screw it UP and lock it (finger tight) against the cap. That helps to lock the cap on and will also show you if your tube has shifted at all. Michael PS: Don't know if it's wrong or right, don't care. -- "Tragedy is when I cut my finger. Comedy is when you fall into an open manhole and die." -- Mel Brooks San Francisco, CA

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 07:46:07 -0700 (PDT) Jacobus De Bruyn writes:

> Listmen, > Yes, I read most of the rants on this list, and I > remember having read something about leaving the valve > locknut off, but it seemed weird to me. I don t have > to believe and swallow everything I read, do I? Why > would the innertubes supply the two nuts, and why > would everyone I know use it the "normal" way, if it > is better not to tighten the locknut?

SNIP

> Can NASA not come up with an alternative for > airpressured tires? We have waterbeds....special > foamy stuff?

SNIP Jacostarica. <><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><> Jake, I seem to remember seeing on a manufacturer's web site that the two nuts are used when building the tube. And the top nut is used to hold the valve stem in the rim when you are installing the tube and tire. After the install they suggested the nut should be removed from the stem. On my KLR I've decided to keep the nut tight to the rim. I also check my tire pressures regularly and in 24,000 plus smiles I haven't had a problem. Some day I suppose I might. : ) On my BMW Airheads I keep the nut tight to the valve cap. How's that for inconsistent? There are some alternatives to air pressured tires. Some products I've been involved with include air, foam, nitrogen and calcium chloride and water for construction type equipment and also solid tires. Longest tire change I've been involved with was two solid tires on a fork lift in the Azores. It took all week to get them changed and that was sometimes 4 guys working at the same time. I like air best. I don't know what NASA is using but I'm betting it's not air. : ) When we had the missile sites in South Dakota the Air Force peace keeper vehicles used for security had foam filled tires. As I recall each assembled tire and wheel weighed about 185 pounds. When the security forces drove at higher speeds in hot weather for extended times the foam would often get soft and leak past the bead. It would then get slung on the side of the vehicle. We never did find a method to remove the foam other than mechanical means like grinding and repainting the vehicle. If it got on your hands it was there until you changed skin. If it got on your clothes it was there forever. The next generation of run flat tires were 10 ply Michelins with a heavy, thick and stiff bead lock. I remember the two piece rim used 10 or 12 bolts and an o-ring for clamping the rim halves together. The bolts were torqued to I think 145 foot pounds. I was lead on the base for the conversion and had a store room full of rims, bolts, o-rings, bead locks, valve stems and tires. I probably assembled 75-100 wheels myself. Since the vehicles were nuclear certified we had to do much of the work with hand tools instead of impact wrenches. All the bolts were tightened with a torque wrench. At that same time I remember the security forces bringing me a wheel from a Bronco and it was winter time. The rim was beat quite a bit and had about 15 wraps of heavy wire tangled around it. That's all that was left of the tire after they drove it over 50 miles on snow covered gravel roads while flat. They never knew they had a flat until they got on a paved road. I replaced the wheel and tire without question as I understood how that could happen. I had to go to supply a few days later and validate the unserviceable tag I'd placed on the wire after I cut it off. They had a hard time believing it was really a tire. : ) Guess that's it for the evening. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Stuart Mumford]

> -----Original Message-----

Date: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:52 pm ((PDT))

> > Listmen, > Yes, I read most of the rants on this list, and I > remember having read something about leaving the valve > locknut off, but it seemed weird to me. I don t have > to believe and swallow everything I read, do I? Why > would the innertubes supply the two nuts, and why > would everyone I know use it the "normal" way, if it > is better not to tighten the locknut?

So that if the tire slips on the rim, you don't end up pulling the stem off the tube. On higher powered dirtbikes (i.e. XR650R's), the engine can generate enough torque to actually make the tire slip on the rim. Most of these tyoes of bikes run rimlocks to prevent this from happening. If the tube does turn with the slipping tire and the valve stem is held tight to the rim, it will rip out and leave you with a flat tire and an unrepairable inner tube. I had this exact thing happen to me on my KLR in Baja, but because of the brakes instead of the engine. Saw some guys I knew at a store, thought I would slide sideways to a stop to show off (I'm cool like that), and I was amazingly extra cool, right up until my rear tube popped. I now always leave the nut about 1/4" up the valve stem to allow the stem to tilt if the tire and tube move a bit on the rim. Thanks CA Stu

[RM]

On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 11:33:47 -0700, "Stuart Mumford" said:

> > would the innertubes supply the two nuts, and why would everyone I > > know use it the "normal" way, if it is better not to tighten the > > locknut? > So that if the tire slips on the rim, you don't end up pulling the > > stem off the tube.

As a side note to the original poster, this is one of the two reasons why rim locks exist. RM

[Ed Chait]

----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Saline" To: Cc: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 8:55 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] tires > On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 07:46:07 -0700 (PDT) Jacobus De Bruyn > writes: >> Listmen, >> Yes, I read most of the rants on this list, and I >> remember having read something about leaving the valve >> locknut off, but it seemed weird to me. I don t have >> to believe and swallow everything I read, do I? Why >> would the innertubes supply the two nuts, and why >> would everyone I know use it the "normal" way, if it >> is better not to tighten the locknut? > > SNIP > >> Can NASA not come up with an alternative for >> airpressured tires? We have waterbeds....special >> foamy stuff? > > SNIP > > Jacostarica. > <><><><><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><><><><> > > Jake, > > I seem to remember seeing on a manufacturer's web site that the two nuts > are used when building the tube. And the top nut is used to hold the > valve stem in the rim when you are installing the tube and tire. After > the install they suggested the nut should be removed from the stem. > > On my KLR I've decided to keep the nut tight to the rim. I also check my > tire pressures regularly and in 24,000 plus smiles I haven't had a > problem. Some day I suppose I might. : ) > > On my BMW Airheads I keep the nut tight to the valve cap. How's that for > inconsistent? > > There are some alternatives to air pressured tires. Some products I've > been involved with include air, foam, nitrogen and calcium chloride and > water for construction type equipment and also solid tires. Longest tire > change I've been involved with was two solid tires on a fork lift in the > Azores. It took all week to get them changed and that was sometimes 4 > guys working at the same time. I like air best. I don't know what NASA > is using but I'm betting it's not air. : ) > > When we had the missile sites in South Dakota the Air Force peace keeper > vehicles used for security had foam filled tires. As I recall each > assembled tire and wheel weighed about 185 pounds. When the security > forces drove at higher speeds in hot weather for extended times the foam > would often get soft and leak past the bead. It would then get slung on > the side of the vehicle. We never did find a method to remove the foam > other than mechanical means like grinding and repainting the vehicle. If > it got on your hands it was there until you changed skin. If it got on > your clothes it was there forever. The next generation of run flat tires > were 10 ply Michelins with a heavy, thick and stiff bead lock. I > remember the two piece rim used 10 or 12 bolts and an o-ring for clamping > the rim halves together. The bolts were torqued to I think 145 foot > pounds. I was lead on the base for the conversion and had a store room > full of rims, bolts, o-rings, bead locks, valve stems and tires. I > probably assembled 75-100 wheels myself. Since the vehicles were nuclear > certified we had to do much of the work with hand tools instead of impact > wrenches. All the bolts were tightened with a torque wrench. > > At that same time I remember the security forces bringing me a wheel from > a Bronco and it was winter time. The rim was beat quite a bit and had > about 15 wraps of heavy wire tangled around it. That's all that was left > of the tire after they drove it over 50 miles on snow covered gravel > roads while flat. They never knew they had a flat until they got on a > paved road. I replaced the wheel and tire without question as I > understood how that could happen. I had to go to supply a few days later > and validate the unserviceable tag I'd placed on the wire after I cut it > off. They had a hard time believing it was really a tire. : ) > > Guess that's it for the evening. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT The pneumatic tire is one of man's greatest inventions. It will not easily be replaced. ed A17

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Mike Frey wrote:

> > I thought Costa Rica was the next paradise for > Americans to retire to....? > > You just made it sound like Puerto Rico > (which I know and still love) > > Mike

When I arrived in (rural) SD, I was 'instructed' or was it chastised, to leave the keys in the car. What if someone needed it for an emergency, or wanted to move it because of a prairie fire? Indeed, a different culture. revmaaatin.

[nzarelli]

hi, rear your faq sheet and ordered avon distanzias front and rear for my '05 klr 650 ,the rear came today and says tubless, is this correct and can i use them w/ tubes? thanks nick

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "nzarelli" wrote:

> > hi, > rear your faq sheet and ordered avon distanzias front and rear for > my '05 klr 650 ,the rear came today and says tubless, is this

correct

> and can i use them w/ tubes? thanks > nick >

Nick, It won't work 'with-out' tubes--the KLR rim won't hold air due to the spokes/nipples without some serious prep/mods. What you are really asking (I think) is it ok to run tubes in the tubeless tires? Yes. Happens all the time. After you get a few miles on those tires, tell us how you like them. I chose the D607's for my spare wheels--swapping back and forth for K270's--and have been cautioned that I will need a throttle limiter for the KLR equipped with the D607's. I suspect, going from the OEM to the Distanzias, you might need one also. Be very careful for the first 100 miles--as the releasing agent that remains on the tire from the manufacturing process has to be scrubbed off before the tires hold well. 100 miles seems like overkill, but skin grows back, Oh-so-slow. It might all get scrubbed off sooner if you take it down some gravel/dirt fire trails--nevertheless, the tires are going to be a little slippery at first. Take a look at your rim strip as well. I would suggest that at 4 years, it probably is 'timed-out' for usefulness. At

[timoteo_del_panama]

I took my new '07 to a service station for inspection today. I need a new front tire. The rear is a new 70/30. I will do very little off-road for the next year, so I want the same for the front. Do you stick with the manual size, or do other sizes work better. I know from my VN750 if I increased the front tire size, the odometer became accurate.