electric vehicle battery improved

[RobertWichert]

Thanks Doug! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 10/6/2014 12:12 AM, walk9940@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

Robert, Here is my formula for Gen 1 KLR650 forks: Progressive springs/spacers--use the emulator to add preload. Race Tech Emulators, bushings, and fork seals. Race Tech springs tend to be harsh. 3 turns out on the emulators with the stock springs(emulator.) 10W oil at stock height. Drill one of the 2 rebound holes to 1/16" Replace the air caps with bleeders. I replaced the stock bushings with the Teflon Race-Tech bushings last year before the GDR and was very pleased at how much better the front wheel followed the terrain. I have never used a fork brace on a dirt bike. This will give a nice, plush, controlled ride. Cheers, Doug

[Fred Hink]

Robert,   Changing your fork springs is one of the easiest and best bang for the buck modifications you can do for your KLR.    Most KLR owners will complain about the fork dive of their bikes and changing out the springs will help with that.  The Race Tech Cartridge Emulators will also help but are more expensive and takes more work to get them installed.  I d start with the fork springs first and if you like that well enough save your money for other things.  If you need more control then the Cartridge Emulator is always an option.   You have to understand that the fork springs and the Cartridge Emulators do two different things.  The springs are what hold you and your bike up off the ground, giving you a ride height according to the spring rate and preload.  The Emulators are what dampen or control the movement of your forks or shock.  The stock KLR fork are old technology called a Damper Rod fork.  This means the control of oil through your damper in your forks is a fixed orifice.  Very simple and very cost effective, just that there are newer ways (more expensive) to control the oil and movement of your forks.  These are called Cartridge Systems.  What meters your oil in a cartridge system is a stack of washers or shims squished together by a bolt and spring.  The oil is forced through this shim stack and the amount of spring pressure will make the damping controllable and adjustable.  Modern cartridge system forks have this adjustment external where you can adjust your damping without disassembly of the forks.  The Cartridge Emulator is the same type of shim stack but the adjustment is internal and will require you to remove the Cartridge Emulator for this adjustment.  They come preset from Race Tech and are usually pretty close to where you want them but they do offer you to dial-in your personal requirements where a damper rod basically doesn t.   You can run most any springs with the Cartridge Emulators.  The Cartridge Emulator will take up about 3/4 of your spring stack (spring & spacer) so you will need to adjust your preload spacer accordingly.  The Progressive Suspension recommends a 3 preload spacer with their fork springs.  Progressive Suspension doesn t include a spacer with their springs but I include them with the PS springs I sell.  From what I gather most thing this 3 spacer recommendation is too soft and so I have cut the spacers I include at 3.5 .  This gives you a firmer ride while still giving you the option of cutting this spacer shorter for a softer ride.   Since changing fork springs are so easy, I always recommend starting with the easy stuff first.  You can always add the Cartridge Emulators later if need be.   Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com   [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, October 05, 2014 12:27 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop     Thanks to both of you!  I will check out the emulators. But wait!  It sounds like progressive springs AND cartridge emulators are what is being discussed. How about the progressive springs only.  Any help there? And emulators only.  Any help there? Thanks! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 10/5/2014 10:42 AM, Mike Huber minoman59@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

  Robert.....How many miles are on your bike ????  I had about 40k on my Gen 1 and already changed out the seals twice with aftermarket seals and they were leaking again .....Fred seamed to thing the inner fork bushings (upper and lower) were worn and recommended replacing them and going with OEM seals......I already had progressive springs and decided to add the emulators as long as I had it all torn down this time.....Fred was right , the bushings were indeed worn out.....after tearing down the forks and cleaning them up inside and out, I reassembled them with 4 new bushings , and emulators , and they work better than new ....The adjustable valving on the emulators make a big difference in the way it handles on dirt.....   I built a homemade fork seal driver out of PVC and have some picts of it in the groups picture files Mike Huber Carlsbad NM   To: DSN_KLR650@y ahoogroups.com From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2014 10:37:15 -0600 Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop   I assume we are talking Gen 1 here sir.   On my Gen 1 bike I put a fork brace (Happy Trails), then added Progressive springs and increased the weight of the oil and found things to work much better than stock.  After another 10k I put emulators in the forks (replaced seals/oil/etc while it was apart).  The improvement was significant while off road and at least noticeable on road.  Note: drilling out the pathways and ensuring there are zero burrs (per the included instructions) was a bit meticulous with the emulators, but worth the effort.   Now I have a Gen 2 and plan to do the Progressive cartridge upgrade when it's time to take it all apart.   Hope that helps sir, Randy     Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- Fr om: "RobertWichert robert@... [DSN_KLR650]" Date:10/05/2014 9:53 AM (GMT-07:00) To: KLR650 DSN Subject: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop   

So I have a fork seal leak on the right fork. I think it is out of oil. Based on all that came out and it stopped. Is it worthwhile, in your esteemed opinion, to switch to different springs, emulators, imitators, anything at all worth doing when I am changing the seals, which are probably shot at 31,000 miles. Is that too soon? Thanks for thinking about this... -- Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================  

[RobertWichert]

Thanks Fred! Sounds good to me! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 10/6/2014 9:14 AM, 'Fred Hink' moabmc@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

Robert, Changing your fork springs is one of the easiest and best bang for the buck modifications you can do for your KLR. Most KLR owners will complain about the fork dive of their bikes and changing out the springs will help with that. The Race Tech Cartridge Emulators will also help but are more expensive and takes more work to get them installed. I d start with the fork springs first and if you like that well enough save your money for other things. If you need more control then the Cartridge Emulator is always an option. You have to understand that the fork springs and the Cartridge Emulators do two different things. The springs are what hold you and your bike up off the ground, giving you a ride height according to the spring rate and preload. The Emulators are what dampen or control the movement of your forks or shock. The stock KLR fork are old technology called a Damper Rod fork. This means the control of oil through your damper in your forks is a fixed orifice. Very simple and very cost effective, just that there are newer ways (more expensive) to control the oil and movement of your forks. These are called Cartridge Systems. What meters your oil in a cartridge system is a stack of washers or shims squished together by a bolt and spring. The oil is forced through this shim stack and the amount of spring pressure will make the damping controllable and adjustable. Modern cartridge system forks have this adjustment external where you can adjust your damping without disassembly of the forks. The Cartridge Emulator is the same type of shim stack but the adjustment is internal and will require you to remove the Cartridge Emulator for this adjustment. They come preset from Race Tech and are usually pretty close to where you want them but they do offer you to dial-in your personal requirements where a damper rod basically doesn t. You can run most any springs with the Cartridge Emulators. The Cartridge Emulator will take up about 3/4 of your spring stack (spring & spacer) so you will need to adjust your preload spacer accordingly. The Progressive Suspension recommends a 3 preload spacer with their fork springs. Progressive Suspension doesn t include a spacer with their springs but I include them with the PS springs I sell. From what I gather most thing this 3 spacer recommendation is too soft and so I have cut the spacers I include at 3.5 . This gives you a firmer ride while still giving you the option of cutting this spacer shorter for a softer ride. Since changing fork springs are so easy, I always recommend starting with the easy stuff first. You can always add the Cartridge Emulators later if need be. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, October 05, 2014 12:27 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop Thanks to both of you! I will check out the emulators. But wait! It sounds like progressive springs AND cartridge emulators are what is being discussed. How about the progressive springs only. Any help there? And emulators only. Any help there? Thanks! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 10/5/2014 10:42 AM, Mike Huber minoman59@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote: Robert.....How many miles are on your bike ???? I had about 40k on my Gen 1 and already changed out the seals twice with aftermarket seals and they were leaking again .....Fred seamed to thing the inner fork bushings (upper and lower) were worn and recommended replacing them and going with OEM seals......I already had progressive springs and decided to add the emulators as long as I had it all torn down this time.....Fred was right , the bushings were indeed worn out.....after tearing down the forks and cleaning them up inside and out, I reassembled them with 4 new bushings , and emulators , and they work better than new ....The adjustable valving on the emulators make a big difference in the way it handles on dirt..... I built a homemade fork seal driver out of PVC and have some picts of it in the groups picture files Mike Huber Carlsbad NM To: DSN_KLR650@y ahoogroups.com From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2014 10:37:15 -0600 Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop I assume we are talking Gen 1 here sir. On my Gen 1 bike I put a fork brace (Happy Trails), then added Progressive springs and increased the weight of the oil and found things to work much better than stock. After another 10k I put emulators in the forks (replaced seals/oil/etc while it was apart). The improvement was significant while off road and at least noticeable on road. Note: drilling out the pathways and ensuring there are zero burrs (per the included instructions) was a bit meticulous with the emulators, but worth the effort. Now I have a Gen 2 and plan to do the Progressive cartridge upgrade when it's time to take it all apart. Hope that helps sir, Randy Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- Fr om: "RobertWichert robert@... [DSN_KLR650]" Date:10/05/2014 9:53 AM (GMT-07:00) To: KLR650 DSN Subject: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop So I have a fork seal leak on the right fork. I think it is out of oil. Based on all that came out and it stopped. Is it worthwhile, in your esteemed opinion, to switch to different springs, emulators, imitators, anything at all worth doing when I am changing the seals, which are probably shot at 31,000 miles. Is that too soon? Thanks for thinking about this... -- Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

[Stu]

Great stuff - as Einstein said (paraphrased) - true genius is the ability to express something complex in clear terms. ................................. Robert, Changing your fork springs is one of the easiest and best bang for the buck modifications you can do for your KLR. Most KLR owners will complain about the fork dive of their bikes and changing out the springs will help with that. The Race Tech Cartridge Emulators will also help but are more expensive and takes more work to get them installed. I d start with the fork springs first and if you like that well enough save your money for other things. If you need more control then the Cartridge Emulator is always an option. You have to understand that the fork springs and the Cartridge Emulators do two different things. The springs are what hold you and your bike up off the ground, giving you a ride height according to the spring rate and preload. The Emulators are what dampen or control the movement of your forks or shock. The stock KLR fork are old technology called a Damper Rod fork. This means the control of oil through your damper in your forks is a fixed orifice. Very simple and very cost effective, just that there are newer ways (more expensive) to control the oil and movement of your forks. These are called Cartridge Systems. What meters your oil in a cartridge system is a stack of washers or shims squished together by a bolt and spring. The oil is forced through this shim stack and the amount of spring pressure will make the damping controllable and adjustable. Modern cartridge system forks have this adjustment external where you can adjust your damping without disassembly of the forks. The Cartridge Emulator is the same type of shim stack but the adjustment is internal and will require you to remove the Cartridge Emulator for this adjustment. They come preset from Race Tech and are usually pretty close to where you want them but they do offer you to dial-in your personal requirements where a damper rod basically doesn t. You can run most any springs with the Cartridge Emulators. The Cartridge Emulator will take up about 3/4 of your spring stack (spring & spacer) so you will need to adjust your preload spacer accordingly. The Progressive Suspension recommends a 3 preload spacer with their fork springs. Progressive Suspension doesn t include a spacer with their springs but I include them with the PS springs I sell. From what I gather most thing this 3 spacer recommendation is too soft and so I have cut the spacers I include at 3.5 . This gives you a firmer ride while still giving you the option of cutting this spacer shorter for a softer ride. Since changing fork springs are so easy, I always recommend starting with the easy stuff first. You can always add the Cartridge Emulators later if need be. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2014 12:27 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop Thanks to both of you! I will check out the emulators. But wait! It sounds like progressive springs AND cartridge emulators are what is being discussed. How about the progressive springs only. Any help there? And emulators only. Any help there? Thanks! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 10/5/2014 10:42 AM, Mike Huber minoman59@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote: Robert.....How many miles are on your bike ???? I had about 40k on my Gen 1 and already changed out the seals twice with aftermarket seals and they were leaking again .....Fred seamed to thing the inner fork bushings (upper and lower) were worn and recommended replacing them and going with OEM seals......I already had progressive springs and decided to add the emulators as long as I had it all torn down this time.....Fred was right , the bushings were indeed worn out.....after tearing down the forks and cleaning them up inside and out, I reassembled them with 4 new bushings , and emulators , and they work better than new ....The adjustable valving on the emulators make a big difference in the way it handles on dirt..... I built a homemade fork seal driver out of PVC and have some picts of it in the groups picture files Mike Huber Carlsbad NM To: DSN_KLR650@y ahoogroups.com From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2014 10:37:15 -0600 Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop I assume we are talking Gen 1 here sir. On my Gen 1 bike I put a fork brace (Happy Trails), then added Progressive springs and increased the weight of the oil and found things to work much better than stock. After another 10k I put emulators in the forks (replaced seals/oil/etc while it was apart). The improvement was significant while off road and at least noticeable on road. Note: drilling out the pathways and ensuring there are zero burrs (per the included instructions) was a bit meticulous with the emulators, but worth the effort. Now I have a Gen 2 and plan to do the Progressive cartridge upgrade when it's time to take it all apart. Hope that helps sir, Randy Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- Fr om: "RobertWichert robert@... [DSN_KLR650]" Date:10/05/2014 9:53 AM (GMT-07:00) To: KLR650 DSN Subject: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop So I have a fork seal leak on the right fork. I think it is out of oil. Based on all that came out and it stopped. Is it worthwhile, in your esteemed opinion, to switch to different springs, emulators, imitators, anything at all worth doing when I am changing the seals, which are probably shot at 31,000 miles. Is that too soon? Thanks for thinking about this... -- Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

[Norm Keller]

Fred, thanks for that brilliant outline of shock operation. I think it's the best short essay I've seen on the subject. (Insert hat's off icon)

[GMac999]

Progressive springs and new clean fork oil really helped my Gen 1.    I’ve never ridden one with emulators, so I can’t comment about that.

 

GregM

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, October 05, 2014 1:27 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop

 

Thanks to both of you!  I will check out the emulators. But wait!  It sounds like progressive springs AND cartridge emulators are what is being discussed. How about the progressive springs only.  Any help there? And emulators only.  Any help there? Thanks!

Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&CHERS I/II     CEPE     CEABPI CERTIFIED SF/MF   GREEN POINT RATER+1 916 966 9060FAX +1 916 966 9068              ===============================================On 10/5/2014 10:42 AM, Mike Huber minoman59@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

 

Robert.....How many miles are on your bike ????  I had about 40k on my Gen 1 and already changed out the seals twice with aftermarket seals and they were leaking again .....Fred seamed to thing the inner fork bushings (upper and lower) were worn and recommended replacing them and going with OEM seals......I already had progressive springs and decided to add the emulators as long as I had it all torn down this time.....Fred was right , the bushings were indeed worn out.....after tearing down the forks and cleaning them up inside and out, I reassembled them with 4 new bushings , and emulators , and they work better than new ....The adjustable valving on the emulators make a big difference in the way it handles on dirt.....   I built a homemade fork seal driver out of PVC and have some picts of it in the groups picture files Mike Huber Carlsbad NM  

To: DSN_KLR650@y ahoogroups.com From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2014 10:37:15 -0600 Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop  

I assume we are talking Gen 1 here sir.

 

On my Gen 1 bike I put a fork brace (Happy Trails), then added Progressive springs and increased the weight of the oil and found things to work much better than stock.  After another 10k I put emulators in the forks (replaced seals/oil/etc while it was apart).  The improvement was significant while off road and at least noticeable on road.  Note: drilling out the pathways and ensuring there are zero burrs (per the included instructions) was a bit meticulous with the emulators, but worth the effort.

 

Now I have a Gen 2 and plan to do the Progressive cartridge upgrade when it's time to take it all apart.

 

Hope that helps sir,

Randy

 

 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 

-------- Original message --------

Fr om: "RobertWichert robert@... [DSN_KLR650]"

Date:10/05/2014 9:53 AM (GMT-07:00)

To: KLR650 DSN

Subject: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop

 

 

So I have a fork seal leak on the right fork. I think it is out of oil. Based on all that came out and it stopped. Is it worthwhile, in your esteemed opinion, to switch to different springs, emulators, imitators, anything at all worth doing when I am changing the seals, which are probably shot at 31,000 miles. Is that too soon? Thanks for thinking about this... -- Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

 

[mark ward]

I'm at 40,000 + seals ok. As a Service tech. I often had to explain, We do ALOT of Warranty work. MEANING Things can go wrong on 1st. day, AND OR It can out last the average estimated life span by ten yrs. BUT, Look it over well BEFORE and During repairs, If it happens again soon, you most likely missed an issue. There are many Mag. articles about CLEANING, removing debris from under the lip of a seal, WHILE STILL INSTALLED AS IS.(I think Fred sells a tool for it, Or you can make one) Service aside, I LOVE my front upgrade, I changed Both progressive Springs and emulators, Not sure what 1 or both did it, but WOW. (I went looking for Pot holes etc the first few days. LOL) (I did NOT ask, "THE OLD WISE ONES," before doing it, if I should do just Emulators or?)    On Tuesday, October 14, 2014 4:14 PM, "'GMac999' gmac999@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

  Progressive springs and new clean fork oil really helped my Gen 1.    I ve never ridden one with emulators, so I can t comment about that.  GregM  [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, October 05, 2014 1:27 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop   Thanks to both of you!  I will check out the emulators. But wait!  It sounds like progressive springs AND cartridge emulators are what is being discussed. How about the progressive springs only.  Any help there? And emulators only.  Any help there? Thanks! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&CHERS I/II     CEPE     CEABPI CERTIFIED SF/MF   GREEN POINT RATER+1 916 966 9060FAX +1 916 966 9068              ===============================================On 10/5/2014 10:42 AM, Mike Huber minoman59@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:  Robert.....How many miles are on your bike ????  I had about 40k on my Gen 1 and already changed out the seals twice with aftermarket seals and they were leaking again .....Fred seamed to thing the inner fork bushings (upper and lower) were worn and recommended replacing them and going with OEM seals......I already had progressive springs and decided to add the emulators as long as I had it all torn down this time.....Fred was right , the bushings were indeed worn out.....after tearing down the forks and cleaning them up inside and out, I reassembled them with 4 new bushings , and emulators , and they work better than new ....The adjustable valving on the emulators make a big difference in the way it handles on dirt.....   I built a homemade fork seal driver out of PVC and have some picts of it in the groups picture files Mike Huber Carlsbad NM  To: DSN_KLR650@y ahoogroups.com From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2014 10:37:15 -0600 Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop   I assume we are talking Gen 1 here sir.  On my Gen 1 bike I put a fork brace (Happy Trails), then added Progressive springs and increased the weight of the oil and found things to work much better than stock.  After another 10k I put emulators in the forks (replaced seals/oil/etc while it was apart).  The improvement was significant while off road and at least noticeable on road.  Note: drilling out the pathways and ensuring there are zero burrs (per the included instructions) was a bit meticulous with the emulators, but worth the effort.  Now I have a Gen 2 and plan to do the Progressive cartridge upgrade when it's time to take it all apart.  Hope that helps sir,Randy    Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone  -------- Original message --------Fr om: "RobertWichert robert@... [DSN_KLR650]" Date:10/05/2014 9:53 AM (GMT-07:00) To: KLR650 DSN Subject: [DSN_KLR650] I got questions... Forks, Springs, Emulators, Imitators, Boop Boop Be Doop    So I have a fork seal leak on the right fork. I think it is out of oil. Based on all that came out and it stopped. Is it worthwhile, in your esteemed opinion, to switch to different springs, emulators, imitators, anything at all worth doing when I am changing the seals, which are probably shot at 31,000 miles. Is that too soon? Thanks for thinking about this... -- Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================  

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[chris kelly]

Motorcycle Consumer News has info about an extremely durable aftermarket fork seals on back page of recent issue. They found them to be better then any fork seals they had found before

 

you may think you can, & you make think you can't... and you're right!!

[Norm Keller]

An old friend who is into electric bicycles has been considering an electric car. Here's a recent post:

 

My expertise in procrastination has once more been rewarded! After careful consideration (read: fear of committing) I determined that a plug in electric car was just not practical at this time ( too much $$$$$$) and then I read the scientific journal this morning covering a new lithium ion battery development:

 

"This next generation of lithium-ion batteries will enable electric vehicles to charge 20 times faster than the current technology. With it, electric vehicles will also be able to do away with frequent battery replacements. The new battery will be able to endure more than 10,000 charging cycles -- 20 times more than the current 500 cycles of today's batteries."

 

The scientist who developed the technology of the current generation of batteries now has a battery chemistry of significant improvement. Using a titanium oxide gel for the anode material, his battery will allow an electric car to recharge 70% in just 5 minutes, the time it takes to fill a petrol powered car. The battery will have a lifespan of about 20 years for an electric car. The manufacturing technique is easily adaptable to batteries being made today. Time to production will be about 2 years.

 

Procrastination has it benefits!

 

Better to be right accidentally than try to be perfect.

 

Cheers

[jwflower53]

I saw that article.  If I remember right, the mfr didn't list the KLR.  I found them listed on eBay, but didn't pull the trigger. They're here:http://www.ebay.com/itm/331295996292?item=331295996292&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:eRTM:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr(Item 331295996292) Has anybody tried them?-JW