wtb rear brake caliper, gen i

DSN_KLR650
rutkoskig
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2014 6:43 am

my 1st klr650

Post by rutkoskig » Wed Apr 09, 2014 7:43 am

Bought a 2000 KLR 650 w/ 4000mi on OD 3 days ago joined MCI motor cycle club in NJ had all fluids air&oil filters changed, new plug safety check done by local mech.  & took my 1st street ride to the gas station in 20 years 8mi round trip felt GREAT!
1. what aprox mpg will i get?  2. can I view a owners manual for 2000 on line somewhere? 3. best sight to VIEW cam tension repair? seeing works better than reading for me when possible   4.best value for online parts or is OEM a Must?      this bike appears all orig. with 2 new tires   can't wait to turn wrenches on this & ride again.  TKS  Glenn

Fred Hink
Posts: 2434
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 10:08 am

my 1st klr650

Post by Fred Hink » Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:10 am

Congrats on your new purchase.  Sounds like the prefect way to get back into biking after all those years.   Most KLRs will usually get about 40-45 mpg and I have heard as bad as 35 and as good as 70 but those are exceptions.  I m sure someone has copied by now a manual online but since they have copyright restrictions, I have nothing to do with those.  You want a Service Manual and not the Owners Manual.  Very different documents.  There is also the Clymer Service Manual that is very good at a cheaper price.  Why do you need Cam Tension Repair ?  If you meant Cam Chain Tension, the cam chain is automatically tensioned and usually never needs repair and especially with a bike with only 4000 miles on it.  If you are meaning the Counter Balancer Adjuster, then that is a whole different can o worms.  The Counter Balancer Adjuster Lever (AKA Doohickey) does present issues in some bikes, not all, but is a good idea to keep an eye on and if it bothers you there is a replacement part that is much stronger the the stock part.  There has been many pages written about the procedure to change out this part.  I like most things that the Mark.net site has written: http://www.klr650.marknet.us/doohickey.html   I m a little prejudiced but I think I have the best value in KLR parts, since I offer expert (ha) advice for free.  Some parts are better aftermarket and some are only available OEM.  It just depends on what you are looking for.  I sell both.   We have a great FAQ site that should answer most all your questions.  Also the archives to this list is a vast wealth of KLR information for the past 20 years.   If you have any questions, be sure to ask them here since we have many local experts that will be glad to offer their opinions.   Happy Riding, Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com   [b]From:[/b] rutkoskig@... [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, April 9, 2014 6:43 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] My 1st KLR650    

Bought a 2000 KLR 650 w/ 4000mi on OD 3 days ago joined MCI motor cycle club in NJ had all fluids air&oil filters changed, new plug safety check done by local mech.  & took my 1st street ride to the gas station in 20 years 8mi round trip felt GREAT! 1. what aprox mpg will i get?  2. can I view a owners manual for 2000 on line somewhere? 3. best sight to VIEW cam tension repair? seeing works better than reading for me when possible   4.best value for online parts or is OEM a Must?      this bike appears all orig. with 2 new tires   can't wait to turn wrenches on this & ride again.  TKS  Glenn


mark ward
Posts: 1027
Joined: Fri Jan 15, 2010 11:18 am

my 1st klr650

Post by mark ward » Wed Apr 09, 2014 9:01 am

Another web page you WILL want to see 7 SAVE. (Google, etc.) BigCee KLR650
[b]From:[/b] "rutkoskig@..." [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, April 9, 2014 8:43 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] My 1st KLR650   Bought a 2000 KLR 650 w/ 4000mi on OD 3 days ago joined MCI motor cycle club in NJ had all fluids air&oil filters changed, new plug safety check done by local mech.  & took my 1st street ride to the gas station in 20 years 8mi round trip felt GREAT!1. what aprox mpg will i get?  2. can I view a owners manual for 2000 on line somewhere? 3. best sight to VIEW cam tension repair? seeing works better than reading for me when possible   4.best value for online parts or is OEM a Must?      this bike appears all orig. with 2 new tires   can't wait to turn wrenches on this & ride again.  TKS  Glenn #ygrps-yiv-1980053248 #ygrps-yiv-1980053248yiv3264190300 #ygrps-yiv-1980053248yiv3264190300 -- #ygrps-yiv-1980053248yiv3264190300ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #ygrps-yiv-1980053248 #ygrps-yiv-1980053248yiv3264190300 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Glenn Rutkoski
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2014 9:14 am

my 1st klr650

Post by Glenn Rutkoski » Wed Apr 09, 2014 10:14 am

That would be great john, thanks  I just need help with some basics to get going   yesterday in the Dark I triedto open the gas cap key didn't go all the way in or turn @ first  ( not opened in 8 months )  when it did finally turn I was trying to twist it off like my bike 20 years ago worked. then it popped open on a hinge ( I couldn't see) I felt real dumb. Quick look @ owener's  manual would have been nice. The Clymer that came with it didn't have a chapter on the gas cap lol  Thanks        Glenn Rutkoski    22 Earley Dr New Egypt NJ 08533   On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 10:08 AM, mark ward wrote: Another web page you WILL want to see 7 SAVE. (Google, etc.) BigCee KLR650
[b]From:[/b] "rutkoskig@..." [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, April 9, 2014 8:43 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] My 1st KLR650   Bought a 2000 KLR 650 w/ 4000mi on OD 3 days ago joined MCI motor cycle club in NJ had all fluids air&oil filters changed, new plug safety check done by local mech.  & took my 1st street ride to the gas station in 20 years 8mi round trip felt GREAT!1. what aprox mpg will i get?  2. can I view a owners manual for 2000 on line somewhere? 3. best sight to VIEW cam tension repair? seeing works better than reading for me when possible   4.best value for online parts or is OEM a Must?      this bike appears all orig. with 2 new tires   can't wait to turn wrenches on this & ride again.  TKS  Glenn #ygrps-yiv-1327891393 #ygrps-yiv-1327891393yiv1754631745 -- #ygrps-yiv-1327891393yiv1754631745ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #ygrps-yiv-1327891393 #ygrps-yiv-1327891393yiv1754631745 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Norm Keller
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am

my 1st klr650

Post by Norm Keller » Wed Apr 09, 2014 7:01 pm

If you like wrenching, the KLR is a great choice because they are simple to work on, tons of farkles available, and very few repairs required. This makes the wrenching mostly maintenance or modifications so able to be scheduled/optional.   Some people go modification crazy but one should keep this reined in. I restricted the mods to my last KLR to only 95 and have just passed 70 on this one. They are not all duplicates so should cross reference some time. ;)   I do strongly recommend changing brake fluid each year as this heads off most brake problems, pull the  front wheel to check the bearings (I'd just order a set and replace front & rear), clean and repack the speedometer drive, and coat the front axle- all with a good quality automotive chassis grease. A common error is to fail to index the speedometer drive "butterfly" into the slots in the front wheel hub which bends the butterfly- if you're lucky. Typically just popping out the butterfly and a couple of smacks with hammer on a flat surface correct the bent problem.   The rear wheel bearings and axle are a replace also but watch for the spacer collar between the left (inner) wheel bearing and the sprocket carrier. Easy to drop and lose it which will make adjusting the rear axle torque "interesting".   Pull the dog bone and other shock linkage to check and grease the bearings. They are "Bremen" type bearings with inner sleeves which can be pushed out with a little finger pressure, check for rusting/damage to bearing and sleeve then pack with the chassis grease. The sleeves can be reinserted easily enough but often require rolling a round tool such as an "O" ring pick around the far side to hook the seal lip over the end of the sleeve so that the sleeve can enter the seal.   Pull the swing arm bolt, and big dog bone bolt, plus the 8 mm engine through bolt at the rear and grease these also. I'm a broken record regarding pulling and greasing these bolts so they don't seize but many people don't listen.  ;)    Ask Mike.  ;)   Norm

Fred Hink
Posts: 2434
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 10:08 am

my 1st klr650

Post by Fred Hink » Wed Apr 09, 2014 7:17 pm

All good points Norm.  I d also suggest checking/greasing the steering bearings.  These tend to get loose and need to be checked from time to time.  Also the rear brake pedal pivot should be greased as well.   Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com   [b]From:[/b] normkel32@... [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, April 09, 2014 6:00 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: My 1st KLR650    

If you like wrenching, the KLR is a great choice because they are simple to work on, tons of farkles available, and very few repairs required. This makes the wrenching mostly maintenance or modifications so able to be scheduled/optional.   Some people go modification crazy but one should keep this reined in. I restricted the mods to my last KLR to only 95 and have just passed 70 on this one. They are not all duplicates so should cross reference some time. ;)   I do strongly recommend changing brake fluid each year as this heads off most brake problems, pull the  front wheel to check the bearings (I'd just order a set and replace front & rear), clean and repack the speedometer drive, and coat the front axle- all with a good quality automotive chassis grease. A common error is to fail to index the speedometer drive "butterfly" into the slots in the front wheel hub which bends the butterfly- if you're lucky. Typically just popping out the butterfly and a couple of smacks with hammer on a flat surface correct the bent problem.   The rear wheel bearings and axle are a replace also but watch for the spacer collar between the left (inner) wheel bearing and the sprocket carrier. Easy to drop and lose it which will make adjusting the rear axle torque "interesting".   Pull the dog bone and other shock linkage to check and grease the bearings. They are "Bremen" type bearings with inner sleeves which can be pushed out with a little finger pressure, check for rusting/damage to bearing and sleeve then pack with the chassis grease. The sleeves can be reinserted easily enough but often require rolling a round tool such as an "O" ring pick around the far side to hook the seal lip over the end of the sleeve so that the sleeve can enter the seal.   Pull the swing arm bolt, and big dog bone bolt, plus the 8 mm engine through bolt at the rear and grease these also. I'm a broken record regarding pulling and greasing these bolts so they don't seize but many people don't listen.  ;)    Ask Mike.  ;)   Norm


Norm Keller
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am

my 1st klr650

Post by Norm Keller » Wed Apr 09, 2014 9:28 pm

 
Thanks for catching that, Fred. I had to dash off to a meeting so missed adding that one.
 
I drill the right side of the frame just above the lower bearing bulge and thread to 1/4-28" for a grease nipple. The first time requires quite a bit of grease to fill the cavity between the tubes but after that a pump or two once a year keeps things lubed and prevents the entry of moisture. There will be some splurge from upper and/or lower ends when it gets warmed up but a wipe or two usually deals with that.
 
Far better than pulling the top bearing cone and dropping the front wheel far enough to pack the lower bearing. I also haven't had to readjust one after installing the grease nipple. I just drill and thread without disassembling as the chips come to the outside when drilling if one takes a bit of care when finishing the hole. Ditto threading. Takes far less time to drill, thread, install nipple and grease than to even do the top cone.
 
I've also started removing the little drain bottle which hangs under the swing arm pivot on the right side. I reach in from the wheel area along the swing arm, snip the hose about 4 inches below the air box, stuff an 8 mm bolt into the hose and that's dealt with. The purpose for the little bottle is to catch air filter oil splurge and fuel if the bike is dropped but I frequently see bikes which have the plug/cap missing from the end of the hose so dirty air is going up that hose. It simply requires a wipe with a rag when checking/servicing the air filter to clean up any splurge in the bottom of the air box so no need to risk dusting the engine.
 
We used to do tech days to install grease nipples into the swing arm and bog bone bearings but don't think I'm up to doing this any more. It's a real bonus when they're done as only takes a few minutes to keep the back end free of water but won't likely be doing much of that nonsense as an officially a senior.
 
The KLR suffers the typical motorcycle wiring woes: too small wires and too long but if one decides as to whether one will go to HID headlight or not, one can decide whether to install headlight relays and do the brown wire modification.
 
The frame bolt upgrade is a must, IMO but if one is average weight or less and doesn't intend rough use, simply upgrading the bolts is often good enough. If heavy and especially if doing rough work, the sub frame top bolt drill through is well advised. Throw some 12.9's into the foot peg mounts. Better to replace the stock pegs with something decent also.
 
The Thermo-Bob is a very useful modification or wait a bit to see if the one under development comes to market. The bypass reduces oil consumption and increases fuel economy according to a survey we did.
 
Exhaust cam advance is a winner and costs nothing.
 
PM me, Fred, I have some information which might be of interest and regarding which I would like your views.
 
Norm
 
 

John Biccum
Posts: 542
Joined: Tue May 20, 2003 4:21 am

my 1st klr650

Post by John Biccum » Tue Apr 22, 2014 9:05 pm

Did you get the manual Glenn? I should have reached you by now.

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Glenn Rutkoski [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, April 09, 2014 8:11 AM [b]To:[/b] mark ward; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] My 1st KLR650

 

 

That would be great john, thanks  I just need help with some basics to get going   yesterday in the Dark I tried

to open the gas cap key didn't go all the way in or turn @ first  ( not opened in 8 months )  when it did finally turn I was trying to twist it off like my bike 20 years ago worked. then it popped open on a hinge ( I couldn't see) I felt real dumb. Quick look @ owener's  manual would have been nice. The Clymer that came with it didn't have a chapter on the gas cap lol

 

 Thanks        Glenn Rutkoski    22 Earley Dr New Egypt NJ 08533

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 10:08 AM, mark ward wrote:

Another web page you WILL want to see 7 SAVE. (Google, etc.) BigCee KLR650

[b]From:[/b] "rutkoskig@..." [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, April 9, 2014 8:43 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] My 1st KLR650

 

Bought a 2000 KLR 650 w/ 4000mi on OD 3 days ago joined MCI motor cycle club in NJ had all fluids air&oil filters changed, new plug safety check done by local mech.  & took my 1st street ride to the gas station in 20 years 8mi round trip felt GREAT!

1. what aprox mpg will i get?  2. can I view a owners manual for 2000 on line somewhere? 3. best sight to VIEW cam tension repair? seeing works better than reading for me when possible   4.best value for online parts or is OEM a Must?      this bike appears all orig. with 2 new tires   can't wait to turn wrenches on this & ride again.  TKS  Glenn

 


Martin Earl
Posts: 231
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2003 10:00 pm

my 1st klr650

Post by Martin Earl » Wed Apr 23, 2014 12:11 am

and the advice you did not 'ask' for --cough.but the promise extracted from me by my friends after being off the bike from 1976-2003...and buying a 2001 KLR650,the promise was to attend-- Motorcycle Saftey Foundation riding instruction; [oh horrors, who would need that!]http://www.msf-usa.org/ If you rode a lot, you might enroll in the advanced course; otherwise, go back to the MSF Basic RiderCourse. In the state of South Dakota, it is offered through the SD Safety Council.Some states it is a community college gig. Your local bike shop will have details, as well as the link above will show you where to enroll by inserting your zip code. This highly valued instruction is offered just about everywhere.Whatever it cost--it will be the best money you can spend on your bike. and other nuggest of wisdom-- If you have not seen this: ATGATT=all the gear, all the time.Buy the best quality riding gear you can afford and wear it. When the KLR is about to take a dirt nap, get away from it. If you have lever protectors, and have moved the L mirror to the clutch perch and bought FRED's mirror isolators, you probably won't break anything.However, if you are still under the bike when it goes horizontal, it will leave a mark. IRT to good riding gear, My ER doc talking to me after the bike spit me out, "You Best dressed customer, ever. Please pass me the scissors."'Hey, this gear has zippers!' and so it goes. Note: When you buy a helmet, do yourself a favor and buy a spare visor. Helmets are often deleted/super seceded from a manufactures line and the availability of a particular visor(s) will dry up shortly after that. sigh. revmaaatin.
On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 6:43 AM, wrote: Bought a 2000 KLR 650 w/ 4000mi on OD 3 days ago joined MCI motor cycle club in NJ had all fluids air&oil filters changed, new plug safety check done by local mech. & took my 1st street ride to the gas station in 20 years 8mi round trip felt GREAT! 1. what aprox mpg will i get? 2. can I view a owners manual for 2000 on line somewhere? 3. best sight to VIEW cam tension repair? seeing works better than reading for me when possible 4.best value for online parts or is OEM a Must? this bike appears all orig. with 2 new tires can't wait to turn wrenches on this & ride again. TKS Glenn

Paul Whatley
Posts: 40
Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2012 1:30 pm

my 1st klr650

Post by Paul Whatley » Wed Apr 23, 2014 6:51 pm

Hello Earl, You and others were most helpful back in January when I bought my first bike, a 2006 KLR the owner delivered from Indianapolis to OKC on his way to Texas. Thanks for your help. I wouldn't ride much until I took the MSF class at OSU OKC. It was worth every penny, although the temperature was in the mid 30s with winds gusting to 33. On the plus side only nine riders showed up so everyone had their own bike and got plenty of individual instruction. I've put about 400 miles on it mostly on a twenty mile round trip commute on back roads. The former / second owner was unaware of the doohickey issue and doesn't know whether it has been replaced. With 10,000 and change on the bike I've been on pins and needles. Planning to order Eagle Mikes doohickey and torsion spring soon. Cheers Paul Martin Earl wrote:  

and the advice you did not 'ask' for --cough.but the promise extracted from me by my friends after being off the bike from 1976-2003...and buying a 2001 KLR650,the promise was to attend-- Motorcycle Saftey Foundation riding instruction; [oh horrors, who would need that!]http://www.msf-usa.org/ If you rode a lot, you might enroll in the advanced course; otherwise, go back to the MSF Basic RiderCourse. In the state of South Dakota, it is offered through the SD Safety Council.Some states it is a community college gig. Your local bike shop will have details, as well as the link above will show you where to enroll by inserting your zip code. This highly valued instruction is offered just about everywhere.Whatever it cost--it will be the best money you can spend on your bike. and other nuggest of wisdom-- If you have not seen this: ATGATT=all the gear, all the time.Buy the best quality riding gear you can afford and wear it. When the KLR is about to take a dirt nap, get away from it. If you have lever protectors, and have moved the L mirror to the clutch perch and bought FRED's mirror isolators, you probably won't break anything.However, if you are still under the bike when it goes horizontal, it will leave a mark. IRT to good riding gear, My ER doc talking to me after the bike spit me out, "You Best dressed customer, ever. Please pass me the scissors."'Hey, this gear has zippers!' and so it goes. Note: When you buy a helmet, do yourself a favor and buy a spare visor. Helmets are often deleted/super seceded from a manufactures line and the availability of a particular visor(s) will dry up shortly after that. sigh. revmaaatin.

On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 6:43 AM, wrote: Bought a 2000 KLR 650 w/ 4000mi on OD 3 days ago joined MCI motor cycle club in NJ had all fluids air&oil filters changed, new plug safety check done by local mech. & took my 1st street ride to the gas station in 20 years 8mi round trip felt GREAT! 1. what aprox mpg will i get? 2. can I view a owners manual for 2000 on line somewhere? 3. best sight to VIEW cam tension repair? seeing works better than reading for me when possible 4.best value for online parts or is OEM a Must? this bike appears all orig. with 2 new tires can't wait to turn wrenches on this & ride again. TKS Glenn

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