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DSN_KLR650
Mark
Posts: 653
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 8:03 pm

clutch

Post by Mark » Tue Dec 18, 2001 2:08 pm

At 6:35 PM +0000 12/18/01, dale_johnson13 wrote:
>If so, how hard is it to change a clutch?
Easy.
> Do I need any >special tools?
No.
> How much does a new one cost?
I got mine on ebay for $10.00 for corks & springs and another better one for $15.00 for just the corks. Don't just search for KLR, but the clutches from a KZ1000, ZX-7, ZX-9, etc. are the same. They retail for ~$30-$105 depending on where you shop, and whether-or-not you are also buying springs and/or steels too. Mark B2 A2 A3

Mark
Posts: 653
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 8:03 pm

clutch

Post by Mark » Tue Dec 18, 2001 2:09 pm

At 1:26 PM -0600 12/18/01, RM wrote:
>On Tue, 18 Dec 2001, mighty_oak1 wrote: > > >Here's step by step instructions as well as a list of tools you'll need. > > >http://www.dualsportnews.com/klr/klr_clutch_change.htm > >How much extra work is it to overhaul the water-pump during a >clutch-change?
About 3-5 minutes. Mark B2 A2 A3

RM
Posts: 1977
Joined: Tue May 09, 2000 7:20 pm

clutch

Post by RM » Tue Dec 18, 2001 2:21 pm

On Tue, 18 Dec 2001, Mark wrote:
>I got mine on ebay for $10.00 for corks & springs and another better one >for $15.00 for just the corks. Don't just search for KLR, but the >clutches from a KZ1000, ZX-7, ZX-9, etc. are the same. They retail for >~$30-$105 depending on where you shop, and whether-or-not you are also >buying springs and/or steels too. Mark B2 A2 A3
Is it typical to re-use the steels?

Mark
Posts: 653
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 8:03 pm

clutch

Post by Mark » Tue Dec 18, 2001 2:31 pm

At 2:21 PM -0600 12/18/01, RM wrote:
>On Tue, 18 Dec 2001, Mark wrote: > > >I got mine on ebay for $10.00 for corks & springs and another better one > >for $15.00 for just the corks. Don't just search for KLR, but the > >clutches from a KZ1000, ZX-7, ZX-9, etc. are the same. They retail for > >~$30-$105 depending on where you shop, and whether-or-not you are also > >buying springs and/or steels too. Mark B2 A2 A3 > >Is it typical to re-use the steels?
I re-use 'em and I think most people don't get new ones unless they're warped (the steels, that is). Mark

Thomas Komjathy
Posts: 140
Joined: Sat Apr 23, 2005 6:02 pm

clutch

Post by Thomas Komjathy » Mon Apr 25, 2011 12:36 pm

Need a general consensus of clutch replacement kits. Stock, DP, etc. Or should I just shim the stock springs, or put heavier ones in? The stack height is good on the current set of friction/drive plates. Thomas J. Komjathy, BS/P, MS/P DSK L.L.C. dskllc@...

Jeff Khoury
Posts: 684
Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:08 am

clutch

Post by Jeff Khoury » Mon Apr 25, 2011 12:42 pm

I've never had to do one in a KLR, but I've always had good luck with KG clutch parts: http://www.kgclutchfactory.com/ -Jeff Khoury From: "Thomas Komjathy" To: "dsn klr650" dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 10:36:31 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Clutch Need a general consensus of clutch replacement kits. Stock, DP, etc. Or should I just shim the stock springs, or put heavier ones in? The stack height is good on the current set of friction/drive plates. Thomas J. Komjathy, BS/P, MS/P DSK L.L.C. dskllc@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

dat brooklyn bum
Posts: 83
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2011 7:03 pm

clutch

Post by dat brooklyn bum » Mon Apr 25, 2011 12:45 pm

The stock clutch is the same one used in one of the Ninja's so it's plenty stout for the KLR. That said, I'd go with whatever name brand you can find cheapest. KLR's don't burn a lot of clutches unless you really try (and I have). da Vermonster
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Thomas Komjathy wrote: > > Need a general consensus of clutch replacement kits. Stock, DP, etc. Or should I > just shim the stock springs, or put heavier ones in? The stack height is good on > the current set of friction/drive plates. > > Thomas J. Komjathy, BS/P, MS/P > DSK L.L.C. > dskllc@... >

Jeff Khoury
Posts: 684
Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:08 am

clutch

Post by Jeff Khoury » Mon Apr 25, 2011 12:46 pm

And I almost always opt for the heavier springs. I don't have a problem with grip, and I like knowing that I have that extra pressure on the clutch pack if I get into deep doodoo. -Jeff Khoury From: "Thomas Komjathy" To: "dsn klr650" dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 10:36:31 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Clutch Need a general consensus of clutch replacement kits. Stock, DP, etc. Or should I just shim the stock springs, or put heavier ones in? The stack height is good on the current set of friction/drive plates. Thomas J. Komjathy, BS/P, MS/P DSK L.L.C. dskllc@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jeff Khoury
Posts: 684
Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:08 am

clutch

Post by Jeff Khoury » Mon Apr 25, 2011 12:48 pm

quote: " unless you really try (and I have)." You mean... like this guy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAuPTo2XfJI Truly cringe-worthy -Jeff Khoury From: "dat brooklyn bum" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 10:45:32 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Clutch The stock clutch is the same one used in one of the Ninja's so it's plenty stout for the KLR. That said, I'd go with whatever name brand you can find cheapest. KLR's don't burn a lot of clutches unless you really try (and I have). da Vermonster
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , Thomas Komjathy wrote: > > Need a general consensus of clutch replacement kits. Stock, DP, etc. Or should I > just shim the stock springs, or put heavier ones in? The stack height is good on > the current set of friction/drive plates. > > Thomas J. Komjathy, BS/P, MS/P > DSK L.L.C. > dskllc@... > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jeff Saline
Posts: 2246
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm

clutch

Post by Jeff Saline » Mon Apr 25, 2011 1:12 pm

On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 10:36:31 -0700 (PDT) Thomas Komjathy writes:
> Need a general consensus of clutch replacement kits. Stock, DP, etc. > Or should I > just shim the stock springs, or put heavier ones in? The stack > height is good on > the current set of friction/drive plates. > > Thomas J. Komjathy, BS/P, MS/P > DSK L.L.C. > dskllc@...
<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Thomas, I'm kind of curious as to what's wrong with the current clutch parts. I think if I was replacing a clutch in my KLR I'd be looking at DP and stock parts. I'd probably be deciding on what to use based on time constraints, price and availability. The OEM parts in my bike have lasted over 30,000 smiles and are still going strong as far as I know. I'm not going in to look at them until I need to remove the right side cover for something. I'd really be inspecting the clutch basket to make sure the "slots" where the disks slide are smooth. No point in putting new parts in with worn parts that will cause premature failure. Also, if I was inside my KLR on the right side I'd be replacing the Spring, Change Lever, part number 92081-1493. You can learn more about it in a Clymer's Manual in Chapter Six. My Clymer's has info on page 148 and figures 48 and 49 show it installed and removed. If this spring breaks the bike won't shift. The spring holds the shift pawl in contact with the shift cam which is sometimes called the shift star. Break the spring and gravity moves the pawl away from the cam. No contact, no shifting. MSRP on the spring is $4.60. Last week my local dealer wanted $6.99 for one and they'd have to order it. Ron Ayers dot com had it for $2.86. I'm keeping one on my shelf just in case. If I take a trip I'll carry it with me. Most don't break but after 30,000+ smiles I figure it's done it's share of springing and a new spring might be a good idea. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . . ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210

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