request: replacement steering stem bearings info

[bufbooth]

Hello All, About to be a new KLR650 owner and saw that there was a Poll question about changes owners wanted to their KLR650. The most requested change was to have a 6th gear? I was wondering what the reason was for the 6th gear request? If it is a top end issue, does putting on a 16T front sprocket mostly take care of wanting a 6th gear? Thanks, Dennis...

[Randall Marbach]

The KLR needs more grunt down low..... i.e a lower first. and a taller gear for highway cruising... adding a 16th front fixes highway but makes low gear too tall for serious off roading. A wider ratio 5 speed or a 6 speed trans would solve the problem. ________________________________ From: bufbooth To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 4, 2009 3:07:25 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Question on 6th gear request... Hello All, About to be a new KLR650 owner and saw that there was a Poll question about changes owners wanted to their KLR650. The most requested change was to have a 6th gear? I was wondering what the reason was for the 6th gear request? If it is a top end issue, does putting on a 16T front sprocket mostly take care of wanting a 6th gear? Thanks, Dennis... ------------------------------------ List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Mon, 04 May 2009 22:07:25 -0000 "bufbooth" writes:

> Hello All, > > About to be a new KLR650 owner and saw that there was a Poll > question about changes owners wanted to their KLR650. The most > requested change was to have a 6th gear? > > I was wondering what the reason was for the 6th gear request? > If it is a top end issue, does putting on a 16T front sprocket > mostly take care of wanting a 6th gear? > > Thanks, > > Dennis...

<><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><> Dennis, I think you probably have it correct that a 16 tooth sprocket takes care of the higher speed wishes by some folks. But if you had another poll I think you'd then discover they would want a lower 1st. : ) I've found myself trying to shift to 6th numerous times. But with my lower gearing using a 14/46 sprocket combo I can kind of understand trying for one more. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Discount Online Trading - Click Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFOsXeqJAgtAZn18PrWSOho5WpjnHYBUTUUOvGedYhhazlSivFRZm/

[k650]

> Hello All, > > About to be a new KLR650 owner and saw that there was a Poll question > about changes owners wanted to their KLR650. The most requested change > was to have a 6th gear? > > I was wondering what the reason was for the 6th gear request? > If it is a top end issue, does putting on a 16T front sprocket > mostly take care of wanting a 6th gear? > > Thanks, > > Dennis... >

The 16T front sprocket moves the final ratio of all the gears so you loose some off-road ability by having a taller first gear needing more feathering of the clutch in tight and technical terrain. Some riders will use a 14T or 13T front sprocket for off-road use at the detriment of high speed. If the KLR had a sixth gear with the proper ratio spread there would not be a need to swap sprockets for the two extremes making the KLR more of an all purpose mount. Walt

[Rick McCauley]

Another nice thing about adding a 6th gear is that they could make first and second a little closer together. Maybe it's just me, but I think second is too much of a jump in gearing. Rick (found an olive branch) A17

--- On Mon, 5/4/09, Jeff Saline wrote: From: Jeff Saline Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Question on 6th gear request... To: bufbooth@... Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, May 4, 2009, 5:35 PM On Mon, 04 May 2009 22:07:25 -0000 "bufbooth" writes: > Hello All, > > About to be a new KLR650 owner and saw that there was a Poll > question about changes owners wanted to their KLR650. The most > requested change was to have a 6th gear? > > I was wondering what the reason was for the 6th gear request? > If it is a top end issue, does putting on a 16T front sprocket > mostly take care of wanting a 6th gear? > > Thanks, > > Dennis... <><><><><><> <><><> <><><><><><> <><><> Dennis, I think you probably have it correct that a 16 tooth sprocket takes care of the higher speed wishes by some folks. But if you had another poll I think you'd then discover they would want a lower 1st. : ) I've found myself trying to shift to 6th numerous times. But with my lower gearing using a 14/46 sprocket combo I can kind of understand trying for one more. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads. org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ Discount Online Trading - Click Now! http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2141/ fc/BLSrjpTFOsXeq JAgtAZn18PrWSOho 5WpjnHYBUTUUOvGe dYhhazlSivFRZm/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[fasteddiecopeman]

Dennis, KLRs are geared TOO high for 'tight' dirt trails, so, if we had 6 speeds, they could LOWER the first 5 leaving 6th where 5th is NOW. Cheers, Ed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "bufbooth" wrote: > > Hello All, > > About to be a new KLR650 owner and saw that there was a Poll question about changes owners wanted to their KLR650. The most requested change was to have a 6th gear? > > I was wondering what the reason was for the 6th gear request? > If it is a top end issue, does putting on a 16T front sprocket > mostly take care of wanting a 6th gear? > > Thanks, > > Dennis... >

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "fasteddiecopeman" wrote:

> > Dennis, > KLRs are geared TOO high for 'tight' dirt trails, so, if we had 6 speeds, they could LOWER the first 5 leaving 6th where 5th is NOW. > Cheers, > Ed

Since this is not a perfect (KLR)world, and for 20 minutes of your time, you can have both. Ride to that favorite remote location--on your favorite high speed c/s-- which is unfortunately, miles and miles for most of you then 20 minutes (max) after you start, you have changed to the KLR secret weapon, =13T or at least 14T c/s that will give you that better 1st and 2d gear. Ah, geared to grunt! Devon, aka NYsingle track prescribed this for years. With Eagle Mikes prevailing torque nut, you might get it done even faster. But usually, no longer than 20 minutes. It will be the best 20 minutes you have ever invested in riding your bike off-paved-surfaces. Me, I'm 2 bloxx from the start of my favorite riding spots. shrug. I leave it geared for grunt. I never change back to OEM 15/43 unless I am going to go more than 200 miles. I commuted 2x a week 120 miles one way on a 14/43 and got along just fine--and that includes briefs bouts of 70mph+ South Dakota/ND/NE/KS are great prairie places to ride this time of year. For me, its 47 miles W to a stop light. 30+ S to a stop sign, .8 N to a stop sign then another 37N to a stop sign East is 25 miles to a stop light Those are the paved roads, no kidding, otherwise, its all gravel, prairie grass and pure dirt trails everywhere else. Yes Virginia, the riding is just 'horrible'. grin. shameless plug; you can get that 13T/14T from Fred. Have it in hand in

[Robert Waters]

> Since this is not a perfect (KLR)world, and for 20 minutes of your time, you can have both. Ride to that favorite remote location--on your favorite high speed c/s--which is unfortunately, miles and miles for most of you then 20 minutes (max) after you start,

you have changed to the KLR secret weapon, =13T or at least 14T c/s that will give you that better 1st and 2d gear. Ah, geared to grunt! > Greetings, I have done the above and it does work. But, it is difficult to carry the proper tools (torque wrench and socket) necessary to do it properly. Once I did not get my sprocket tight enough and an oil leak developed. Thus, a change should be made. I have heard that Huskavarna has it right, but that bike looks more like a trail bike. Robert Waters NW Arkansas [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ltslpr]

Thank you, Paul and Jeff. Jeff: once again I benefit from your extensive knowledge of the KLR - you were a great help with my counterbalancer weight replacement a couple months ago. I had posted my inquiry before I started work on my KLR; in fact, I ran into the house, posted the inquiry, then immediately started the disassembly. I'm a bit "under the gun" with this: last week I heavily promoted a camping trip for this coming weekend (leaving Friday), got three friends signed on, and then Sunday realized I had steering stem bearing issues. I also posted before even looking at my shop manuals; I thought the bearings would be ball bearings, and planned to install roller bearings (hence my request for aftermarket bearing numbers) - imagine my surprise when I pulled the stem off to find roller bearings top and bottom. That and pressed in/on races. I recall reading about "allballs" in one of the threads that popped up in my search, including some humorous reply relating to the somewhat unfortunate business name. Must have been you helping out someone earlier. I'll order the kit tomorrow to have on hand, though it looks like I'll have to wait until I make friends with someone who has a portable welder, or I finally buy that "buzz box" I've been wanting for a decade (but have no other use for). Since I'm on a tight deadline, I cleaned and re-greased the OEM bearings. I was surprised to not find a large, obvious divot in one or both of the headstock races; what I did find was a few small indents in the lower headstock race only. I spent ten minutes on that lower race with a 3M Scotchbrite pad, that seemed to even out the dimples a little (probably just me hoping it was so). I reassembled the bike, leaving the bearing compression just a bit looser than spec but still without play in the headstock. When on the stand and in the front drive, the gravelly feel is gone, and the detent is barely noticeable. I got finished at midnight, so had to wait till today (Tuesday) to take a test ride. I can still feel the very minor detent, maybe mainly because I know it's there. Fixed enough for the weekend trip though, so I'm happy. This is my first experience in this area. I'd have been much happier of the steering stem bearings were like axle bearings - what I was expecting - instead of having the races pressed onto the stem and into the headstock. A benefit of the work yesterday was I discovered the cause of a new noise vibration, the left tab between the fairing support and the turnsignal mount broke. And I noticed my front brake caliper needed a partial disassembly and cleaning. I ziptied the first, cleaned the second. You cut the lower stem race to get it off, but welded a tab onto the headstock races to hammer them out. Do you suppose, absent a welder, cutting the headstock races for removal would work? The cuts would have to be diagonal and parallel due to the angle of access; then pry out the area between the cuts and the rest of the race should be easy to pry out? Thanks for your advice, Jeff. Glenn San Jose, CA P.S.: Since I rarely post on this site, I didn't realize until today that the default send-to address is the member who's posting is being looked at, and that yesterday's reply went to me only, and not the group. Nearly every day is a learning experience for me.

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Waters wrote: > Greetings, > I have done the above and it does work. But, it is difficult to carry the proper tools (torque wrench and socket) necessary to do it properly. Once I did not get my sprocket tight enough and an oil leak developed. > > Thus, a change should be made. I have heard that Huskavarna has it right, but that bike looks more like a trail bike. > > Robert Waters > NW Arkansas > Hi Robert, You certainly have a beautiful place to ride. I rode #7 last May going North from Dallas. I think the sign said, "Winding Dangerous Road Next 169 Miles." Not getting the c/s nut tight is a problem. I have found that adding a breaker bar and socket is a minimal addition to my tool roll that I carry--and fore-go the torque wrench when I travel or make a trail side change. Now, that said: I use my torque wrench in the garage to the maximum extent practical. I don't make it a religion to use that torque wrench(s), but probably more than most. Trail maintenance: My breaker bar is the same length as my torque wrench--(you see where this is going), so I have an idea as to how much 'pull' 69-70ftlbs feels like. I initially was not comfortable doing this, but have yet had it go awry. With a breaker bar--I believe another usable rule of thumb is snug plus 1/8 of a turn for field work. I doubt that you could over torque a C/s nut--as the rear brake will slip before you pull to much torque; at least in my experience. On an amusing note, as a MO Ozark prairie rat, we used to refer to that snug plus 1/8 as an "Arkansas torque wrench" or guet-n-tite. shrug. Must be a common nomenclature, as my Marines from WV called it by those names as well. There have been many a bolt twisted off using this technique--as well as misreading a torque wrench! Still, I don't think you will get a C/S sprocket to tight using due care. Oh, it was also sometimes called an Oklahoma torque wrench--depending on the last team to be the Mizzou Tigers, etal. revmaaatin.