klr spotted up butterfield canyon, utah

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Sun, Apr 06, 2003 at 09:49:12AM -0000, maudibbb wrote:

> If you are want to go synthetic, and are thinking of using Mobil > Delvac 1, I would suggest that you instead use Mobil 1 MX4T which is > Mobil's synthetic oil developed specifically for 4 stroke > motorcycles. Here's what Mobil has to say about it.

I'd strongly recommend that you _not_ use oils "developed specifically for motorcycles". There's no point helping the oil companies collude to artifically divide the market and raise prices. The only car or truck oils you can't use in your motorcycle are the "energy conserving" ones which contain friction modifiers. Essentially, these are 10w30 or lighter car oils -- 10w40 from most if not all manufacturers is Just Fine -- and none of the heavy-duty oils sold for diesel/fleet use; no friction modifiers there, they'll work just fine. Several empirical tests have demonstrated that there is _no_ advantage to "motorcycle" oils. Thor

[RM]

On Sun, 6 Apr 2003, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote:

>The only car or truck oils you can't use in your motorcycle are the >"energy conserving" ones which contain friction modifiers.

Not to be nit-picky, but they all have friction modifiers. ZDDP along with many other anti-wear additives also function as friction modifiers. The motorcycle oil emperor has no clothes. RM

[Zachariah Mully]

On Sat, 2003-04-05 at 10:38, robsmcn wrote:

> When I reach about 1,500-2000 miles, I am switching to synthetic > oil. I am thinking of trying Mobil Delvac 1 - it's marketed as a > truck diesel engine oil but also suitable for gas engines. However, > the rating is 5W-40. Does anyone advise against using this rating? > I live in NJ - probably won't ride in weather lower than 40 degrees > F or higher than 90. > > My alternative was Mobil 1 15w50

As many have said, any oil is better than no oil and Delvac 1 is better than most. The only problem I see is availibility (I can't find it in the Mid-Atlantic) and price ($18-20/gal). Wally World used to have Rotella T for $13/gal, but now its $18/gal, so I've gone back to Delvac 1300 for $6/gal. I have about 20,000 miles (bwtn 2 bikes) on Delvac 1300 without any complaints. Z DC A5X A12X

[paladin_1176]

When I did the doohickey upgrade, I drained all the oil as it needed it anyways. I loaded it back up with a new filter and Rotella 5w-30 oil. I've only put around 200 miles on the bike, and my oil is almost black. Is this typical? Most vehicles I have will keep a golden look to the oil up to the 2k-3k range if it's running good. Could it be that the fresh oil flushed a bunch of carbon out and I should just drain the oil and replace? Moose

[dooden]

Wow made it to 200 miles before turning black ? Pretty typical at least with my KLR, assuming wet clutch/tranny/single all attributes to the dark color. Keep it full, change it and ride it... Dooden A15 Green Ape -- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "paladin_1176" wrote:

> > When I did the doohickey upgrade, I drained all the oil as it needed it > anyways. I loaded it back up with a new filter and Rotella 5w-30 oil. > I've only put around 200 miles on the bike, and my oil is almost > black. Is this typical? Most vehicles I have will keep a golden look > to the oil up to the 2k-3k range if it's running good. Could it be > that the fresh oil flushed a bunch of carbon out and I should just > drain the oil and replace? > > Moose >

[Jeff Saline]

On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 17:18:08 -0000 "paladin_1176" writes:

> When I did the doohickey upgrade, I drained all the oil as it needed > it > anyways. I loaded it back up with a new filter and Rotella 5w-30 > oil. > I've only put around 200 miles on the bike, and my oil is almost > black. Is this typical? Most vehicles I have will keep a golden > look > to the oil up to the 2k-3k range if it's running good. Could it be > > that the fresh oil flushed a bunch of carbon out and I should just > drain the oil and replace? > > Moose

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Moose, I'd suggest that's fairly typical of the KLR and oil color view through the site glass. Just out of curiosity I'm wondering why you're running a 30w oil. Seems kind of light to me. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Ernie Campbell]

your oil is way to light, at least use 10w-40 Ernie Campbell

----- Original Message ----- From: paladin_1176 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 1:18 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Quick oil question When I did the doohickey upgrade, I drained all the oil as it needed it anyways. I loaded it back up with a new filter and Rotella 5w-30 oil. I've only put around 200 miles on the bike, and my oil is almost black. Is this typical? Most vehicles I have will keep a golden look to the oil up to the 2k-3k range if it's running good. Could it be that the fresh oil flushed a bunch of carbon out and I should just drain the oil and replace? Moose [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Ernie Campbell" wrote:

> > your oil is way to light, at least use 10w-40

Shell doesn't make a 5w30 Rotella, they only make a 15W40 and a 5W40. Undoubtedly he put 5w-40 into it, which works just fine in the KLR (change it at 2K miles tho!).

> Ernie Campbell > ----- Original Message ----- > From: paladin_1176 > anyways. I loaded it back up with a new filter and Rotella 5w-30 oil.

[Mike Peplinski]

Thats normal for a 650 single. There's a bit of blow-by on this engine. I'm pretty sure they all do that. Really.

>From: "paladin_1176" >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Quick oil question >Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 17:18:08 -0000 > >When I did the doohickey upgrade, I drained all the oil as it needed it >anyways. I loaded it back up with a new filter and Rotella 5w-30 oil. >I've only put around 200 miles on the bike, and my oil is almost >black. Is this typical? Most vehicles I have will keep a golden look >to the oil up to the 2k-3k range if it's running good. Could it be >that the fresh oil flushed a bunch of carbon out and I should just >drain the oil and replace? > >Moose > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > >

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[Norm Keller]

Oil turning black is a good sign! The reason oil turns black is because the oil is holding colloidal carbon particles in suspension. The carbon is tiny bits which make their way past the rings and needs to be picked up by the oil and held in suspension until the next oil change removes the contaminated oil. Oil which stays "clean" looking isn't holding the carbon particles in solution. It you want to see this in operation, flush the engine out and run straight mineral oil. This oil will stay clean looking for much longer than will a proper, high detergent oil. Good oil doing its job! Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]